Spector NS5 RD

^^^^^^^ looks like the sled is a perfect fit. with your modded battery sled, have you noticed an improvement with battery connectivity ? looks really good awsum140.

if you're hitting the temp message too fast you could - back off the wattage and/or turn up the temperature. this is assuming you're using the correct TCR/wire CSV for the wire you're running. you might also want to adjust your preheat down a little bit. also worth mentioning, the temp protect message is nothing to be worried or afraid of, all that is doing/saying is that the board has to throttle back wattage to keep you from going over your set temp.

no. the dna 200 requires 2 or 3 cells in series to operate. however, the dna 75 on the other hand will run on 1 cell

i'd think this combo would be friendlier to your lipo or 18650's. you can set the CC amps for that part of the charge then when it's time for CV to take over you can also set that. the board automatically knows when to switch between cc and cv. you need a power supply that has a voltage greater than 12.6v 14-16 would be ideal for the input on this converter. you could still use your protection board as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-5A-Lithium-Charger-CV-CC-buck-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-LED-Driver-New-/401089106197?hash=item5d62c61115:g:bHwAAOSwo8hTqSb

i'm sorry devyn, kanthal cannot be used in temp control with the dna 200 or any other evolv board as of yet. you need to use a wire that is NOT kanthal or nichrome. TC wires include but are not limited to : titanium, nickel200, stainless steel etc.

maybe something like this jurdanas............. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-contact

i gotta say i'm pretty impressed with smy's battery sled in the sdna 75. the posi spring is tight and both that and the neg contact have good surface area contact with an 18650. i don't get the flashing battery bar (new weak battery message with the new FW) until 25%-20% batt when running 75w preheat, 2 sec, 11 punch. granted i'm running only lg hd2c batts. i'm sure dwcraig1 can confirm this with his mod. as in no premature weak battery message.

what do mean you tried an external charger, you took the lipo out and it won't charge the lipo with an external charger? your buddies mod might have a different watt hour setting, therefore showing a different level of charge. does the mod vape? what the individual cell voltages on the lipo pack? this is a cloudmaker whiteout, correct? you've had the mod connect to escribe, with no problems, previous to this problem?

the resistor bank responsible for balancing discharging is so tiny on the dna 200 (it has to be for space sake) it takes a very long time to balance any number of cells that aren't VERY close in voltage to each other. the dna 200 balances discharges instead of balance charges, same end result though. billw50 has the right idea, just let it do it's thing.......... it'll get there eventually.

just as in VW, making dual TC coils has to be more precise. if one coil has less or more resistance than the other your TC accuracy goes out the window. maybe consider trying a single TC coil first to see what it's all about. what do you have for TC wire? i'm not going to list all of my TC wires setups, that'd take too long. if you have SS i'd say try that first since you can run it in either TC or VW mode. let me know what kind of wire you're working with and i'll tell you what works for me with that wire.

@Andybenton i suspect you'll be pleasantly surprised by their response. just don't expect a super fast response. give it a few days.

.18 amps is what your charging board is drawing from your PS? is it nearing the end of the charge cycle? why do you say your amp meter is junk? maybe just test the current with the MM only and not both the amp meter and the MM.

man is this thing tiny. the black finish feels just like a VS. i'm willing to bet this finish will hold up better though. my screen is a hair crooked. not a prob, can be fixed easily. 3.5v sag on 75 watt preheat at 11 punch and 1.5 seconds. that is on my recently purchased, freshly charged LG HD2C batts. battery sled contacts are VERY tight. no weak battery message yet. 25mm tanks do overhang on three sides. came all set up - mod res, case thermals, wires and on this mod the profiles are used as different ramp ups. the included usb cable is a puny 9" lol. nice mod all around for $66.

9/10 "warranty service" is an RMA issue. you could try to reinstall the firmware, hard and soft reboots, if you can get escribe to recognize the device.

great job man. it's like that charging board was made for a project like this. who needs vaporshark's 2 amp charging when you got 4 amps. maybe a nice size barrel jack for the charging board mounted on the side or bottom of the mod.

if you're located in the states, even usps first class has a tracking. i've noticed evolv does not notify you when they send your replacement out to you. it just shows up in your mailbox .this has been the case with all my returns. however, i have received all of my warranty replacements in a timely fashion from evolv. i know they can't track it, but ask if they can tell you they sent it. maybe it's just taking the slow boat to you. usps isn't always on the ball. it might even show up in your mailbox tomorrow for all you know.

if you mean the project sub ohm s200, i'm pretty sure it uses the same lipo as the hcigar vt200. 1300 mah 3s 30c. here's one vendor who sells them. i would contact the vendor before purchasing to make sure it is in fact compatible with your s200. the stock vt200 lipo measures - 68mm x 30mm x 21mm. just make sure your choice matches those specs. http://sweet-vapes.com/hcigar-vt200-replacement-lipo-battery.html

usually when a fuse blows in an electronic device there's a deeper problem. not always but more often than not. something in the boards circuitry could failed before the fuse had enough time to break power. in device monitor at the bottom of the screen, where it says "button", does it continuously say "fire"? if it does without you touching the fire button you could have a broken fire switch or ejuice inside, near or around it shorting it out. you could try the usual procedures people try when the board misbehaves - soft and hard reboots, reinstall the firmware. there's always the option of opening a help ticket with evolv, from their website.

i would open a help ticket directly with evolv from their main website. explain your situation to them. they might take the whole mod in for repair or might ask for only the board from it.

right click inside the colored box you want to delete. click the X and "poof" gone. delete all the colored boxes and no more led light show. might want to save the theme before you start deleting just in case you change your mind and forget how get your colors back or something. or restore defaults might bring them back to factory settings.

take the 75 board and snap it in half. then it'll be half the length and work for your needs, trust me

i think the glossy SS body looks good. look at you, making sure your diy kangxin sqounker gets in on some lovin as well! my black smy dna75 just processed through isc new york.

yikes, all these shark 200's dying. i'm scared to vape MINE now. i already had to send it out once for a new board (5 days after receiving it new from VS). i hope the dna 200's timing belt or head gasket doesn't go next.

the VS website was down for a few days for maintenance and upgrading. an email was sent out by them saying it was going to be down for a while.

i just combined two tp4056 boards to achieve 2 amp charging for my hacked vt200 i made into a dna 75. thanks for the link frogmod. good see other people who are like minded. here's a link to what i did. /topic/65603-topic/?do=findComment&comment=886542 edit.....that link you posted to the 3 amp board, i'm guessing they're combing all those 4056 ic's not only to achieve 3 amp charging but also when plugged into a 2 amp usb charger it's less stressful on the 4056's and produces less heat at 2 amps because of the extra headroom.