awsum140

Just a casual observation, and not knowing what kind of mod is involved, but, maybe the board came loose and the buttons no longer work because they can't actually reach the switches.

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Just a suggestion, but try heating the Ti to a dull red, either with a dry burn or torch, before wrapping the coil. Don't go past dull red and be sure to wipe it well with IPA before wrapping your coil. I use Ti, exclusively, and it works quite well for me anyway.

It would be nice to know the basic specs of it, chip size, power in, power out and so on. (the chip, not the mod)

Built like that it would be too bulky even for me. The "classic" configuration with the chip on one side, tank on the other side and battery in the middle makes it fairly slim by comparison to that. Height, battery capacity for a LiPO, isn't too bad, and it will fit in a t-shirt pocket. Dry weight, without a tank, isn't bad, but tanks do add significant weight overall. I built a low tank DNA40, similar to a VTR, and it's a nice, handy size and goes everywhere I do. My point is to get a tank that doesn't stick out the top waiting to be snapped off if dropped.

It takes a while for the temperature to steady, up to an hour is extreme conditions I would guess. Mine took about a half hour and that was a 1590G case.

I know doing mods/cases like this is a big project, but can't somebody do something other than a box? (admitted low tank fan)

If I had a dime for everybody that's been tripped up by that brightness setting, me included, I could retire in luxury (instead of poverty).

What are you using for a TC on that wire, Johan? I see 3.93x10(-3) listed but don't see a listing for the ruthenium. I'm guessing the 3.93 number would work, but just want to ask. It is expensive, ~$50/ft, but if it can be dry burned, easily, that negates the added expense.

I'll second Chunky on the titanium, nickel gives me a metallic flavor. I use 28 gauge and if I want it "heavier" I just twist some up. 7-8 wraps on a 3mm mandrel works fine for me in Aromamizers and Foggers.

I'll volunteer that the DNA200 is a "buck" device not a "boost" or "buck/boost". To achieve 200 watts at a nominal 7.4 volts would mean a current draw of just shy of 28 amps, kind of high for an 18650 IMHO. I'd suggest just sticking with 3S LiPO packs for 200 watt DNA200 mods. Keeps everything well in "spec".

I have all of mine set at 50% and see no real difference. We're talking only a few milliamps, under ten, for the display, I would guess, so it really shouldn't be a problem. That brightness setting got me with the first DNA200 as well.

Just a quick comparison of the Nanotech and Graphene 1300mah shows the Graphene is slightly larger which could be a problem in terms of what enclosure/mod they will fit into. It would seem to indicate that the energy density isn't quite as high for Graphene.

Either should work well, but I'd use the Turnigy out of personal preference and good results, so far, with them. You will probably need to change the XT60 connector to an XT30 connector though no matter which one you use.

Evolv does seem to really back their products so I'm betting they'll repair/replace. Heck, they fix defective mods from manufacturers even if it wasn't the fault of the board itself. I've been lucky, I guess, and have three hand built 200s going with absolutely no problems at all.

Well, sometimes Mr. Murphy pays a visit and sometimes things just fail for no apparent reason. I'd open a ticket with Evolv, they're very good with replacement and fast turnaround time.

I finally got around to taking some photos this morning, but first I did some "maintenance" on a couple of my DNA200s. I took my 1590G apart to re-fold the screen ribbon to make sure it stays away from the fire button. Building the ERM+s has convinced me that the ribbon cable is pretty durable and can be bent quite severely without damaging it. While I was at it I took the fire button out and ground/filed a flat on the side that faces the ribbon cable just to make sure. Then I took ERM+ #037 apart and tightened up the 510 connector so it is now flush to the enclosure. My first attempt at a custom spanner didn't let me apply enough torque to tighten it completely, but my new one works like a charm. Here's ERM+ #037 and #038 apart for the photo. In the center is my "high tech" spanner for the 510 connector. Its just a piece of aluminum angle with 6-32 screws threaded through it and ground down to fit in the holes. I'm using lock nuts on the other side to allow setting the depth to prevent the ends from scratching the case under the connector and to spread the force a bit onto the angle stock. Here's my "stable" of DNA, hand built, mods. From left to right - Low tank DNA40 with a Fogger V6, ERM+ #037 with an Aromamizer, ERM+ #038 with a Fogger V4.1 and 1590G with an Aromamizer. ERM+ #038 is for the Mrs. and the Fogger has kanthal coils 'cause she's a tootle puffer. Bet the battery lasts her a week or two at least!

I guess it can depend on the exact "head" in use. Many rely on the friction of a silicon washer/grommet to provide a ground connection. That is fraught with problems. I've had kanthal coil heads go from a measured, before wrapping, of 2.0 ohms to 3.2 ohms once installed. Then, hit it with some power and it drops down to 2.1 ohms. Crappy connections are the culprit and that is at the mercy of the way the head is actually built. Heck, even in an RTA/RDA resistance can, and sometimes does, fluctuate. At least with them it can be fixed simly by tightening the screws for the coil mount, unless it's center post related of course.

I'd suggest using 28 gauge, Ti is my favorite over Ni, anneal it staying in the "blue" color range, clean thoroughly, then, wrap the coil. I've done twisted 30 and 28 gauge, both strands Ti, and they perform very well.

As a general observation, tanks with replaceable coils will produce flucuating resistance readings. In the "old days", before TC, flucuations of a few tenths of an ohm didn't mean a whole heck of a lot, but with the very low resistance that TC works at, any variations will be dramatically amplified. I'd suggest a decent RTA rather than fooling with replaceable head tanks. YMMV.

I'm running a 6ml Aromamizer with 28 gauge twisted Ti coils, 7 wraps at 3mm ID, wicked with rayon in a horizontal configuration. .15 ohms and up to 60 watts with no problems and the Aromamizer stays cool. I did remove the silicon air control ring though so it's full air flow.

So what size is the battery? I built a 1590G and got a 1000mah Turnigy into it. I kept the magnets but built a retaining bracket to hold the battery in place and a "sled" for the board so there are no screws showing on the face. I don't plan on swapping batteries, but want to be able to get inside easily if something goes wrong, plus this way I can show off the guts, LOL.

Here, here!

I used 12 gauge to the 510 connector, an FD version 4. What I did was bring the wire in at right angles rather than straight in to the center pin. I pulled out enough wire to filled the center hole and "fanned" the rest out around the pin. After soldering, I trimmed the fan flush with the sides of the pin. Took some time and fussing, but it worked out really well. If you cn bring the wire in at right angles, it might work for you, either that or get a different, Evolv, 510 connector.

I'll play later today, both on Win10 and Win7. Great idea and sharing makes it even better! My hats, and props, to you Mika! More than well done!