JTree

Thanks yall. I have a stack of screens here. I'm going to go through them to see which ones are good and which ones are bad and rebuild these two mods. I'll use some double sided foamed ribbon I have laying around and hope for the best. Building in these enclosures is nice, not having to solder a ground, no need for a 3d board mount, ect, but I find it frustrating that I can not *see* that the ribbon is in the right place once I screw the board down. These may be the only 2 mods i build in these enclosures due to that fact. I'd rather go through the additional trouble of additional soldering, drilling, and parts acquisition so that I don't have to redo work because there was no way to confirm one of the most fragile pieces in the build is destined to fail in a few short days/hours. Really going to miss working with them, though. Perhaps someone will come up with a 3d solution on the enclosures for the c boards, but I doubt that there will be innovation at this point. If it were going to happen, it would have already.

Ok so I know I am late to the party building in the concept syle enclosures, but here we are. So I'm building in a silo enclosure. Twice now I have installed the board and screen in such a way as to pinch the ribbon between the actuator and the fire button. What kind of oragami have yall used to keep the ribbon out of the way?

Anybody? Anybody? Bueller? Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't usb have 4 carriers, 2 for data, 2 for power? I'm guessing that the current would have to be incoming before the switch telling the logic, "Hey, I've got power, time to give that 3 cell some of dat sweet sweet amp." I am looking at the traces and I have a guess of where a qi reciever would need to go, but I'd rather someone in the know que me in than guess on my own.

I've had no issues. On the 4 large pads, I bend the braided carrier I am using to give me a nice flat piece the same length of the solder pad, flux and tin the wire (no longer as malleable. Then press wire to pad and put the iron on top of the carrier. It melts right into it making a good joint. If it helps, I'm running my iron pretty hot and using a chisel tip for the large pad joints.

Looking at the pictures, that contact at the bottom right....that guy looks like it might give you issues. Also, where are the actual power wires? I honestly don't know if the board using the power wires when reading the different cells (I doubt it), but I'd also try hooking up the juice before reaching out to evolv.

Personally, the first thing I would check is to make crazy sure the tabs on the sled were making fantastic contact with the batteries. I can not tell you how many battery sled tabs have been off center enough to rest on the flame jacket of the battery instead of the actual posts. Next, I would look for cold joints on the tabs. Not as likely in my experience, but hey, anything is possible, right? Next, look at the solder joints on the board. Still, not likely you fubbed it, but just make sure. I've had a few weird board failures switching boards around, so if all else fails, reach out to evolve.

Yeah, I know its kind of gimmicky, but I'm considering trying to incorporate wireless charging on my next build. Where would I wire in the reciever?

One screw should be enough, but 2 would be pleasing to my aesthetics. No real reason to drill more holes in the 510. I'm sure I'll be able to find an Allen head machine screw that will fit the existing holes nicely. If not I'll modify the existing holes to accomdate the head. I'll post pics when I'm able to focus on this build. It's going to have me running to a fastener shop I imagine....monday seems likely.

Thanks for the reply. Interesting. Well I don't have a spanner wrench small enough to fit those holes, but I am totally going to use those holes to put some screws through to keep it from backing out, LOL. It never matters how much I torque a 510 through a typical aluminum enclosure or whether I put a backup nut on the bottom, they always seem to back out one day. Of course, I'm rough on things. I've considered thread lock, but I'm not willing to go the chemical solution yet.

After soldering a few of these, my favorite method is: 1) if the wire needs to be bent to be happy in the enclosure, bent it before tining. Use flux. 2) the tab on the board has quite a bit of solder already, but go ahead and add a little more before even putting the tined wire against it. 3) put the tined wire against the tab and put your iron on top of the wire and press down a smidge. It will sink in to the solder, remove iron and wait like 5 seconds before releasing the wire. 4) smile at your perfect joint and tell it how lovely it's soldery perfection is.

What are you guys using for the anti spin screws? My calipers aren't small enough to measure the recess and hole.

Without a finish, won'the the magnets start corroding almost immediately? My last set did, but maybe that was the remnants of the finish that corroded.The hair line crack doesn't offend me much. TBH, I would be more worried about it if I wasn'the already planning my next build. I think I'll order a battery this week

Also, I have no idea why my epoxy didn'the set completely after 10 hours, but I thought they were good, removed the clamps and they crept....argivating. i'm thinking about drilling tiny holes to eliminate the hydraulic effect next time. I used magnets on the reverse side of the door and those stayed in fine and hardened like they were suppose to.

Yeah it's a fat daddy v4....I'd stay way from the v5s. The v4s are easy to work with. If you 2 tone yours let me know how it works out. I'very been considering playing around with home anodizing.

You'll note that I over compensated with the new wire lol