awsum140

I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but you do realize that the standard screen has to time out and you need to increase the charging screen brigtness using Escribe to be able to see the display during charging. I fell into that same trap, LOL.

They're nice for extending the JST connector. I am thinking about the same idea of using an external charger but I'd like a little more robust connector that's actually designed for multiple uses and abuses. To bad the mil-spec stuff is so darn big.

So where's a link?? I'm lazy, LOL.

I love my DNA200, but I also love my DNA40. Those two supply the vast majority of my vape time. I have another TC mod, Invader Mini, that fills in when I work outside (tough as nails and pretty good vape but not on the level of a DNA by far). The rest of the VV/VW stuff is gathering dust and cobwebs. My wife can't figure it out, she's a tootle puffer, but she'll be getting a DNA200 soon.

Just a casual observation, and in no way am I knocking any specific brand or brands of mods, but these failures seem to happen more often with specific brands of mods. It is entirely possible that there is a problem or flaw with the mod or the way it is being assembled. It can certainly be frustrating to spend well over $100 for a mod and have it fail in a short time but if it is a problem with the DNA200 itself Evolv will straighten the problem out from what I've seen. The problem becomes the "blame game" that seems to happen more often than not.

I've got to ask...are you double sticking the battery in place since you're using magnets for case closure?

What's in that 50cal can in terms of battery, Nick?

How old is it. how many charge cycles? If the connections all look good I'd contact the vendor is it's still in warranty. If not, the next thing would be another battery.

Maybe check the battery connections and the atomizer connections as well, as long as you're at it. I'm not sure if the VTB uses connectors or is directly soldered, but either way a look-see can't hurt.

If it's a hand built mod, double check the connections at the balance connector, just in case.

You've got me there. I don't have either of those atomizers. I can tell you that my Foggers behave exactly the same on either my DNA40 or DNA200, adjusting for the lack of a Ti curve on the DNA40.

Two questions for you - 1 - What power level are you at? 2 - Have you used device monitor in escribe to watch what's going on when you vape on it?

It's on the "screen" tab all the way at the bottom. I have mine set at 60%, tired eyes.

or too hot.

Sounds like a bad cell in your battery. I'd contact the vendor or Hana.

My solution to a load for the battery analyzer. I started with the case from a 3000 watt inverter that had bit the bullet. I think this will handle up to the full 200 watts without a problem. The resistors have heat sink grease on them and are wired with 10 gauge solid wire.

Where is "around here"? Home Depot has them and Amazon and FleaBay have them by the ton, or tonne. Local "True Value" or Ace hardware stores should also have them and even have metric equivalents.

As I learned, by asking the same question, you need to increase the screen brightness in charge. Default is 0%. I've found 50% works for even my tired, old, eyes.

John, I assume, and we all know what that can do, that you used 12 gauge wire for interconnections of the resistors and to the atomizer terminals.

Thanks, Brandon.

I like the extension of the ribbon cable for the screen and the six wire plug on the switch connections. That makes it very serviceable.

Out of curiosity, what is the "default" charge rate for the charger? Further, given that the packs in use here are capable of accepting charge rates well in excess of 1C, why would the charge rate be set lower than one amp?

The 10C and so on indicate the MAXIMUM discharge rate that the battery is capable of, safely. For example a 10C, 1000mah, battery can be safely discharged at a 10amp continuous rate. What boggles my mind is seeing 4000 and 6000mah battery packs with 100C ratings. That's some really serious power!

I have to agree with you, VB. Three 0-80 screws, or their metric equivalent, seems a little under sized compared to a 12, or even 14, gauge copper conductor. Even if metal spacers are used, I'd worry about oxidation between them, and the case simply due to dis-similar metals.

0-80 screws, in stainless, are easily available off of FleaBay or even Home Despot. I used some plastic tubing I got at a hobby shop, 1/8" OD fits a 0-80 screw perfectly. It's easy to cut with a razor knife and easy to sand as well. I wouldn't try drilling out the holes at all, that board is a very high density printed circuit, multiple layers, and the risk of breaking a trace, internally, is too great. I also wouldn't silicon the board in place. If something goes wrong, you're stuck with a mess trying to get it out.