awsum140

I believe I read somewhere on this board that the switch is actually used as a "via" and connections are made across the common terminal of the switch. I am not an Evolv employee or and expert by any means, so take tis for what it's worth.

The thing that impresses me is the "smoothness" and consistency that the DNA chipsets have, both the 40, 75 and 200. I built a DNA40 about a year and a half ago and still love it and use it daily. That lead me to the 200 and the 75. Love them all. They vape really well until the battery is too weak or you run out of liquid. Then they just sort of shut down. Just had a minor "earthquake" here. They dropped a load of firewood in my neighbors back yard and it was a nice "rumble".

I'll admit to going nuts with a DNA75 after using DNA200's. They are "a horse of a different color". But, after getting it dialed in, it performs just as well as the 200 for me and has the advantage of simply replacing the battery rather then being stuck to a charger. Of course the 3S LiPO pack lasts longer so there is a trade off. I'm using titanium coils and it took some fiddling with temperature to find my "sweet spot".

So, after a week, how's it going for you Mexvape?

That's really going the "extra mile", AMD!

One of the inherent problems that I've noticed with DNA chips, in general, is that they are so darn accurate that loose or marginal/changing connections anywhere in the atomizer chain makes you think the chip went south. Every time it's happened to me, bad performance, I've cleaned everything extra well with IPA externally and then reset the coil screws. Normalcy returns, thankfully. VB, I've got a Disguiser with a Bachelor in it. I keep vaping it dry 'cause the tank is fairly well hidden. With an all stainless FEV V3 I always check the tank level every time I go to use it. Need to adopt that to the Disguiser.

Glad you got a solution, mikode. Yoseff to the rescue!

Well, looking at the graph, on the right, it's showing cold ohms and firing ohms at the same resistance. Are you sure the wire is SS 316L? Who is the source of the wire? What atomizer is this happening with?

Can you post a screen shot of the graphs in device monitor? That would be a big help. Have you tried changing temperature as well as power?

I don't want to tell you what settings to use, but will offer that I am using 316L in a DNA200 at a power of 40 watts and temperature set at 520F, ~270C, in a dual coil Aromamizer, say 20 watts per coil. It is possible that you are not applying enough power for the DNA to see a change in resistance. What Chunky was looking for was the graph generated in device monitor as the device is fired. That will show the live resistance of your coil as it heats. I would also suggest trying various powers and temperatures to see what gives you the vape that you like.

I think if you unscrew the atty, fire the device, then screw the atty back in and fire again, it'll ask "new coil" and treat it as such based on your answer.

Assuming that happens with the same atomizer, check the 510 on the Therion. Just a guess, but a good place to start.

If you don't want a specific profile, and profiles allow the use of various TC materials and settings for them, just raise the temperature up to maximum plus one more press of the "up" button. That will put it into wattage mode. As smart as the DNA chip is, it still can't automatically determine wire type. At least not yet.

Shawn, unless I'm missing something key, the toggle style switches you are looking at are double pole switches. Looking at the data sheet it looks, to me. like it won't do what you're trying to accomplish in terms of switching. If it did it would list something like 1-2 ON, 3-4 ON, 5-6 ON depending on handle position. What you're actually looking for is three single pole switches mounted in one enclosure and controlled by a single bat handle. The best solution for that would be a either a single or double pole, three position, rotary switch and, again, current capacity and resistance of the contacts is a real concern. You're dealing with some, potentially, high current especially when Mr. Murphy gets into the mix and a coil gives you fits. The DNA chip will control power, and hence voltage and current, based on the resistance of your coil. Whether that control is based on a voltage setting or a power setting has no bearing on the situation for vaping as far as I can see. Whether the desired result is achieved by setting voltage to achieve a power level or simply setting the power level, directly, the result is the same. Additionally, if you use the TC mode, it will control that quite closely for then entire draw. The opinions expressed are worth exactly what you're paying for them, no more, no less.

Inflation is a bummer, Bill. I remember gas, high test at that, at .239 a gallon. What happened to that?

I'll give these a try - 1. To find the version use eScribe software on a PC with the device connected to the PC, of course. 2. To find the voltage, current and every statistic you could ever want from a mod use Device Monitor which is a feature of eScribe software. Realtime graphing of all parameters. Inside eScribe you can customize the device to display power, voltage, current and so on. 3. I stick to good, name brand, batteries that are capable of at least 25 amp continuous output. In reality, a 10 amp battery can work IF you don't push the mod over 30 watts or so. Personally, I use LG HD2 batteries in my DNA75s and get reasonable time between charges from them. 4. The chipset is limited and can't go beyond 75 watts. I really don't believe a mod that is initially designed to max at a specific power can be modified through firmware to produce more power than the components on the board, doing the work, are capable of producing.

The first thing to do is check the voltage on each cell in device monitor. That information will be helpful. Also, note if the battery shows as charging when in device monitor.

As an experiment try these steps - Unscrew the atomizer and fire the device to get "check atomizer". Screw the atomizer back on and fire again, answering "yes" to new atomizer. I'm betting it will vape normally until allowed to rest, unused for say a half hour, then revert back to the behavior you're seeing. I experienced the same things with DNA75 boards using both Ti and 316L. I added grounds and changed the 510, even though it was an Evolv 510. Nothing worked other than that little procedure. I even opened a ticket and returned a board, tried multiple boards as well to no avail. Then, one day, I experimented with raising the temperature on the DNA75. I had been using 450-480F on DNA200s and it as fine, but the DNA75 seems want a higher temperature setting. My DNA75s are now set at 520F and perform really well. Mine are single 18650s for whatever that might be worth. As with everything, YMMV. Understand I am not knocking Evolv or the DNA75 in any way. It just seems to be something specific with the DNA75 that hasn't appeared, at least for me, with the DNA200.

I'd say double check by plugging into a USB port on a PC/craptop.

Alternately, use the "snipping tool" in Win7 and up. Save it as a .jpg

I'll go out on a limb and say IF the batteries are the same model, are the same "age" in terms of cycles and start and end at the same time they would be relatively safe to use as a "married" pair. I am using some HE2s as a married pair that were used as singles for a few months with no problems, so far, knock on wood and do the eggplant dance.

No, I'd need a fire permit and the fire department would need to be present

Yes, and when swapping the behavior of the 75 and 200 is the same with the 75 needing a higher temperature. I've changed boards, added grounds and done the "naked eggplant on my head" dance with no results. Simply raising the temperature on the 75 did the trick though.

The funny part is that the 75 is an Evolv 510 and the 200, at least one of them, is an FD V4.

I found a work around. All I did was raise the temperature until things worked properly. The DNA75 is set to 530F while a DNA200 with the same build is running fine at 480F. It may just be a question of tolerances in components. Beats me but it does work. The 50F difference does bother me though.