awsum140

Somehow, somewhere, the resistance changed. I would carefully check, and clean, the 510 connector on the mod. Then move on to the atomizer connector. After that check the atomizer, itself, for potential problems between the connector and the coil mounts. Just a guess, but getting flames out of the chimney would seem to indicate that resistance went "high", for whatever reason, and the DNA simply applied the voltage require for the new, higher resistance. I've been using Fogger V6 and Aromamizers and haven't seen any problems since I started with DNA chips four months, and about a liter of liquid, ago.

Is your "mod resistance" set properly in eScribe?

I have a DNA0 and a DNA200 and find that 28 gauge Ti works quite well for both. It all depends on your vaping style and what you're looking for. I've recently started trying twisted 30 gauge Ti in the DNA40 and twisted 28 gauge Ti in the DNA200, but like Jalcide, I keep coming back to the 28 gauge. Works really well for me.

I was just trying to clarify some of the variables. I only have three DNA200's running at the moment and have yet to experience overshoot that is significant, more than maybe 10 degrees for a graph tick. Then again I don't monitor constantly while vaping with them, that can interfere seriously with driving, and like I said my taste buds are probably shot anyway.

Jaquith, what atomizer(s) have you been using and have you tried more than one particular atomizer brand/model? I use Fogger, FEV V3 and Aromamizer with no problems with the Aromamizer being the most "rock solid", the other two can vary .01 ohms or so occasionally. Then again, my taste buds are shot from too many years of the real thing.

Not being a smart guy, but did you change the coefficient of temperature from Ni to Ti? The reason I ask is that you seem to be using Ti at the temperatures I use it at on mods that only have nickel TC curves.

I was going to comment that reasonable loads would produce more realistic results. The chip will run up to 200 watts, but most people don't use that much power in "real", day to day, vaping so a lower, more "real" load might give better, real life, results.

Smoke and mirrors, pardon the pun. Bottom line, without an extra sensor, and connections to it through the device base, kanthal/nichrome temperature control just ain't gonna happen, no matter how they advertise it. I'll stick with the DNA line.

I can't see how it would be possible to monitor the temperature of a kanthal or nichrome coil without using an external sensor. Temperature is monitored by the resistance change caused by heating and both of those wire types have, basically, linear resistance over a very broad range of temperatures. The only other "dodge" would be a very high resolution method of resistance measurement which would, undoubtedly, be extremely expensive and complex. Maybe they've found a way to suspend, or circumvent, the laws of physics but I seriously doubt it.

Out of curiosity, what brand/model mod are you using?

Check around the holes for the external buttons. There may be something shorting out the "down" connection intermittently.

Get the butter and jam out, it's toast.

From what you've said it sounds like you're soldering with power connected. That could be the problem. The next thing is solder and/or flux between pads on the board. I managed to "brick" a DNA40 with a small bridge between two pads that I never noticed until the board was toasted.

I suspect you are being "fooled", as was I. Check the screen tab in eScribe with the DNA connected. You'll see a selection for screen brightness when charging. The default setting is 0%, black screen. Set it to, say, 50%, and give it a shot. You'll see your DNA charging from the wall wart.

I would say to stay with what you updated to until you find out what's going on with the battery no being recognized. Why add another variable to the mix?

First thing is to plug it into eScribe and bring up the device monitor. That will show you the battery's overall status as well as each cell.

Have you checked using device monitor in eScribe? That will give you detailed information on the battery condition.

Keep in mind the "room temperature" sensor is also on the board. Just handling it can cause it to read high. Now, add that it's inside an enclosure with limited ventilation and you can see the problem. Just the ambient heat generated by the board from vaping will cause it to rise. The best way to check it is to leave the mod alone, for an hour or more. Problem with that is it's DNA200 and works so well.

But keep in mind that 1 amp limitation. The best way to look at it is by watt hours of the source and battery versus the available current.

From the looks of that one chip, I'd send it back. I won't even comment about the soldering/connections for the atomizer.

Where is he "like" button. I've got to do exactly that with my home brew 1590G.

C'mon folks. The room temperature sensor is on the board, in an enclosure, with pretty limited ventilation. Expecting it to read the same as a wall mounted thermometer isn't very realistic. Any activity on the board will make it read higher. I'm betting that Evolv is a little sorry they called it "room temperature" rather than "idle board temperature" or "ambient board temperature".

To be honest, I know it's overkill, but I'm known for overkill. Me and Clark Griswald went to school together. So far, I haven't used it at anything higher than 50 watts for testing purposes. I did want to be able to go to the full 200 watts, just in case, though. The max power can be changed in Escribe, both for regular use with kanthal and for the battery load test. The wire I used was from a scrap piece of 10/3 romex I had hanging around from moving the water heater. Any wire is suitable as long as it's of a heavy enough gauge. Again, 10 gauge is overkill but then again that's just me. I get about 10ml from the 1000mah Nanotech which represents a little over a day for me I'm working on another mod with a 1500mah Nanotech but the time involved in that particular build is kind of long. I've also got a couple of 1300mah Nanotechs for yet another version. I'm hoping for two days out of the 1300mah and more than that from the 1500mah.

Here's my solution. Four one ohm, 50 watt, resistors mounted on a scrap aluminum finned chassis. It's wired with 10 gauge between the resistors and 12 gauge silicon for the leads which are terminated in an XT30 for convenience. I also have an adapter with brass lugs to attach to an ErlK clone atty if I want to test an assembled system. (Resistors were excess from Mike Petro)

Yeah, kind of a built-in "gotcha". Sometimes I think there's too many variables that can be set in the software, but then if there weren't it wouldn't be a good. Kind of a conundrum.