dwcraig1

My laptop has 3 USB 2.0's and with a charge only cable one port charges at 500 mah another at 750 and the other at 1 amp. It has no USB 3.0 but the one that charges at 1 amp is a combination eSATA/USB port.

It only locks in the cold resistance, as the coil heats and the resistance rises the board continuously calculates the voltage needed to maintain the set wattage providing set temp allows for it. It just locks the starting point.

What you are describing (lock),that just pertains to cold ohms, all the TC wire are going to increase resistance according to their composition when heated. An example of how lock could be used: You need to change the battery (reboot) and the atomizer is hot, here you need to retain the cold ohms setting.

The board is continually sampling the coil resistance whether it's in power mode or temperature mode. The type of wire that you are using increases resistance as it heats up.

What is the material of the coil and how many watts are you applying.

A couple items, 1st is temp turned off and 2nd is Kanthal power set to 200 watts. If yes to both of these the only thing I can think of would be a wonky connection at the 510. Any chance of posting a screen shot of it firing showing both cold ohms and live ohms? Also is the cold resistance showing pretty much the same on both mods and what is your mod resistance value set to? Or just post what the cold and live ohms are when firing if that would be easier. Be sure to list what the wire type is btw

I do believe you just said it's fixed, love a good ending to a mystery.

No problem with using higher than 1 amp output but it will still just charge at 1 amp max.

I have no VS but have been giving this some thought the last couple of days. Keep in mind this is just something i'm pondering, here goes. Now I'm not talking about mashing down the fire button excessively hard but could this problem stem from pushing it too lightly? Maybe someone that's having this problem can give it a try and report back.

I'm assuming that they bored the hole for it straight, my friend's 510 was straight before he dropped it. So yes, straight down tapping on the high side. I'd leave it if it's not too bad, it doesn't sound too bad.

My friend dropped his Vapecig Vtbox200 with atty and the 510 got angled. If not too bad perhaps live with it. Try this at your own risk. I placed the mod on a solid surface and using the correct size socket and a very small hammer and multiple light blows I drove it back into place. I was worried about one of the inductors coming off the board but all went well without a mark on it. I can't really say that I reccomend it but this is how I fixed it.

So did it come that way or did it get dropped?

I tried finding a good picture of it and couldn't find one of the inside of box view of the 510, it does appear to me to be press fitted in the case.

Nope. I find 1 amp a whole lot better than 0.5 amp though, which is the most you get from any of them including VS when plugged into a computer with a cord with data path. At work that's how I charge, still not all that bad as I'm always in and out of what I call my office. Office.....LOL.....more like a broom closet.

Read here, it should give you some info on recovering it. /topic/66326-topic/?do=findComment&comment=896200

Looks to be some type of cradle for the board to sit in.

So never higher than 40 watts? What I really don't understand is the 23 amp part.

I'm starting to give my 40's some long lost love. For the life of me I can't remember just how the preheat is suppose to work. Kind of to lazy to research it, can anyone refresh my memory? Back when I got them I only had Ni200, now I have many types and I'm liking the results, just have to find the right temp and it's good to go. Edit: I have two Bellus atties coiled the same, one's on a 200 @ 35 watts with 45 watts preheat and the other is on a 40 @ 35 watts. I am using both and really find them about the same. More to the point: What is the preheat duration? How close does it come to the set temp? Does preheat exceed 40 watts?

Where's the "Like" button?

The 2500 mah is the capacity between 2.5 volts and 4.2 volts, the DNA 200 is only going to be using whatever capacity between at lowest 2.9 volts and 4.2 volts. Just how this plays out in real time I'm not sure but I suspect the watt hours to be slightly less than what Escribe's wizard comes up with when 2500 mah is input.

Just curious, does it make any difference which battery is installed last? Is your charging set to "maximum puffs" or "maximum charges" ? Perhaps your watt hours is a bit too high resulting with the 95%.

Something to consider might be to save your battery profile, copy down your case settings, screen setting, ect on paper and restore default settings with a hard reboot in the end. Then add everything back. I'm pretty much saying what I would do but not at all sure if it will solve it for you, can't see it hurting anything though as long as you keep all the settings. Might even re-flash the firmware too.

I stopped at a vape shop that I go to occasionally to show the owner how to use the new firmware and we had that problem (maybe).What solved it was to add the various materials. It was as if there was nothing to change to, it fixed it. Edit: Let me add a bit more to this. In this situation we took a brand new Hana 200 from the display case and applied the beta firmware, there were no profiles previously set up Oh, never mind...... it was materials that we couldn't change as they were all nickel. DUH

I'm just a bit curious as to how you rebooted the mod, did you disconnect the battery and reconnect it or something else? Very glad to hear that you were successful btw.

Here (try both) http://flawlessvapeshop.com/shipping-returns/ and http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add