dwcraig1

I received my Protovapor Silo today, a great job they did. It came properly set up and included a nice cable, instructions and warranty card. So a big shout out to Evolv, Protovapor and Modcrate.

That comes out to 6.17 volts, looks like you nailed it VB EDIT: it appears that I plugged in some wrong numbers into the calculator...5.96v it is.

Have you tried another device that uses data on that same USB port? Tried another USB port or even another computer? Has the computer been rebooted since noticing this problem? Have you tried a different usb cable?

The bottom paragraph in the link below explains it better than I would have. /topic/68073-topic/?do=findComment&comment=912472

Lithium Polymer (Lipo)

Possible

Here: /topic/66731-topic/ Get the one that says "RECOMMENDED" Uninstall the EScribe that you have and install this one.

Sent you a PM

A 25 amp fuse is on the input. Whether there is two cells or twenty the board sees it as one battery.

I used my Hotcig DX200. Atty read 0.020? on the screen, took 6 drags and pulled the battery then put it right back in. Atty read 0.023? on the screen. Put it away and got it back out later and it was back to 0.020 ?

Well the fuse is 25 amp so.............

The specs call for a min 23 amp battery (lipo) 11.1 v @ 23 amp. With some 18650's you only get 11.1 v @ 20 amp (for example) so you can set it to not draw more than the cells can safely output. The board steps the voltage down while stepping the amperage up, 23 amps in can get 55 amps out but at a lower voltage. Edit: I would think if it were to be set lower than 23 amps that the 50 - 55 amp output would decrease some as well.

The poster was comparing Sony VTC4's with LG HE2's, 2100 Mah vs 2500 Mah. Question was "which battery curve to use".

Perhaps your looking for something like this? /topic/65591-topic/

0.004 is in the expected range.

I'm still at work without my tool, not sure how the cold ohms correlates to raw ohms. Does it change when you screw it in and out?

By setting mod resistance to zero before checking mod resistance with your tool.

So you did set mod resistance to zero and upload to the mod first right?

Thanks for your reply.

Can the original Wismec 510 socket be disassembled for example so the insulator or spring can be replaced?

0.022? surely can't be the correct setting, he (Daniel) must have made a typo. A figure of 0.0022? would be more believable. All 4 of mine are close to 0.003?. I seem to recall a correction made in the comments on his site on that, not sure though.

Here's mine: I removed the insides and the rubber grommet and put the positive pin back in and filled with solder. (from the bottom)

I'd pick the one for HE2's as they will be in there slightly longer, as far as I know only the battery gauge will be off a bit on the other set. Edit: you will probably get less than what you calculate on the mah of either set

I'd be looking at the 510 socket. See this post I just made in another thread, maybe try that. /topic/66823-topic/?do=findComment&comment=901046

What I and others have done is to solder the 510 of an old cartomizer or 510 adapter together to use as a tool for mod resistance. It works well, be sure to set mod setting to zero prior to running the test.