dwcraig1

The spring is part of the battery sled, inside of one of the negative battery contacts.

While I think an RMA is the best way to go I was still hoping to see the voltage readings taken off the pads where the balance connector connects to the DNA200 board. Just curious if it's a problem with the DNA board or the daughter board.

I'm pretty sure we will see some more (RX 200's) posts in the future with the same problem.

I'm not sure of coarse but I believe the 75 has most but not all of the features of the 200, so less. It does however have the ability to make the fire button light up various selected colors when firing, as long as that can be turned off I'm good with it.

Lock and sleep is all there is. You could pull the batteries out.

I do mainly contact coils, and dry burn it. Perhaps I shouldn't but I do. I used it all night at work, doing well.

So I went ahead and made a couple of Zivipf Nife 30 coils, keep in mind that they are 70% nickel so that yields a fairly low resistance. Also the TCR is high so temp accuracy is easy for the board. My coils are 8.5 wraps, 2 mm id, 26 gauge wire, x2, that come out to 0.6? which is a bit lower than I prefer but still doable. I really see no real advantage using it over Nife48/52 but it is working well.

Just some things to take into consideration. Because of it's low TCR any added resistance getting involved due to incorrect mod resistance setting, wonky 510 connection, wire at post, ect will give you all kinds of potential grief.

Assuming nothing has been changed as far as your battery settings I would try a hard reboot.

Well Zivipf has Nife 30 which is 70% nickel. The listed TCR is 520. Note Zivipf calls their Nife52 48. Here is Kanthal's data sheet for Nife70, note the composition. Steamengine lists Nifethal70 (alloy 120) TCR @525 I assume that Zivipf's Nife30 is Nifethal 120, I have it, perhaps I'll give it a try tonight and report back. I'm a big fan of Dicodes nife 30 btw which is 30% nickel (I think) Interesting that you posted about it as it was already on my mind.

My laptop has 3 USB 2.0's and with a charge only cable one port charges at 500 mah another at 750 and the other at 1 amp. It has no USB 3.0 but the one that charges at 1 amp is a combination eSATA/USB port.

It only locks in the cold resistance, as the coil heats and the resistance rises the board continuously calculates the voltage needed to maintain the set wattage providing set temp allows for it. It just locks the starting point.

What you are describing (lock),that just pertains to cold ohms, all the TC wire are going to increase resistance according to their composition when heated. An example of how lock could be used: You need to change the battery (reboot) and the atomizer is hot, here you need to retain the cold ohms setting.

The board is continually sampling the coil resistance whether it's in power mode or temperature mode. The type of wire that you are using increases resistance as it heats up.

What is the material of the coil and how many watts are you applying.

A couple items, 1st is temp turned off and 2nd is Kanthal power set to 200 watts. If yes to both of these the only thing I can think of would be a wonky connection at the 510. Any chance of posting a screen shot of it firing showing both cold ohms and live ohms? Also is the cold resistance showing pretty much the same on both mods and what is your mod resistance value set to? Or just post what the cold and live ohms are when firing if that would be easier. Be sure to list what the wire type is btw

I do believe you just said it's fixed, love a good ending to a mystery.

No problem with using higher than 1 amp output but it will still just charge at 1 amp max.

I have no VS but have been giving this some thought the last couple of days. Keep in mind this is just something i'm pondering, here goes. Now I'm not talking about mashing down the fire button excessively hard but could this problem stem from pushing it too lightly? Maybe someone that's having this problem can give it a try and report back.

I'm assuming that they bored the hole for it straight, my friend's 510 was straight before he dropped it. So yes, straight down tapping on the high side. I'd leave it if it's not too bad, it doesn't sound too bad.

My friend dropped his Vapecig Vtbox200 with atty and the 510 got angled. If not too bad perhaps live with it. Try this at your own risk. I placed the mod on a solid surface and using the correct size socket and a very small hammer and multiple light blows I drove it back into place. I was worried about one of the inductors coming off the board but all went well without a mark on it. I can't really say that I reccomend it but this is how I fixed it.

So did it come that way or did it get dropped?

I tried finding a good picture of it and couldn't find one of the inside of box view of the 510, it does appear to me to be press fitted in the case.