dwcraig1

Sorry , do you mean you want me to tell you again perhaps a bit more detailed?

Something around 24 gauge solid copper bell wire attached to the right length juice bottle.

I type slow

In the picture a couple posts back it is cell #3 that I'm charging, that's using two pins on the positive side of the connector. The outboard (#3) is positive and next one (#2) is negative. Mine got out of balance because I got e liquid between the connector and board. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it, soon it had the same problem. Then I cleaned the area and problem never came back.

It's safe (enough) Your only looking at 4.2 volts @ .7 amp Well the wiring must not short as it has quite a bit more power, connect the wires to the balance connector last and disconnect them first.

The pack is somewhat unbalanced, it's a very slow process using the on-board charger to get it balanced. It may eventually balance or perhaps cell 3 won't charge any higher due to a bad cell. If you have a meter check the voltages on the balance connector or the power wires, your voltages add up to 12.1 volts and see if they match up to what EScribe says. BYW 12.1 is 95 +% roughly of 12.6 volts

What does device monitor say the battery voltages are?

Generally when it only comes on when plugged in with the usb the fuse has blown. What does it show in EScribe for pack and cell voltages?

Is this in temp mode or power mode? I would set the mod resistance back to zero and check it with the copper plug again to see if you still get 0.004? Edit: don't forget to upload the zero setting

This is the saddest post I've read lately. Being new, can you return it to where you purchased it?

When the test is done it will ask you if you want to use those figures. Also you could save your existing curve prior to the test if you want.

Note that the above requires 2016-02-12 EScribe 1.0.39 or newer.

Just to keep me on track here is the 3.74 volts without load and the 3.05 volts is with load?

You are correct, the Hotcig is wired like the ERM. The poster wants to run the output ground to the 510's body as well as the batteries negative to the 510's body. At least that's what I got fromit after I read it a few times.

I always look at the low temp as a sign that the wick is saturated well and could take more power. This is providing the cold and live ohms show correctly. If mine hit the temp set I make whatever changes to keep it below that temp. Generally see how many watts it can take before hitting temp and back it off some. 430 F is my usual setting.

Same build....is it the same atty...not just same model atty?

Still not sure what you mean, maybe the low temp? Oh, it's a Serpent

Not sure what problem, refresh my memory.

@ BillW50, what are you using for wire? It sure has a big change from cold to hot in resistance.

I thought I'd throw something up for comparison, my DX200 not hitting temp And hitting temp,

I just want to throw this in here for those looking for the original Hcigar 1300 mah lipo, Fasttech listed them this morning for $12 something. This isn't available to US customer because of shipping regulations, I'm not sure just where it can be shipped to either.

Please add what you have been using for a charger, is it the same charger that was used on both boards?

Because of cell #2 being so low I just can't recommend a usb recovery charge, you might try it at your own risk. To do a usb recovery charge you must first sign in to Evolv under the "internet" tab in EScribe, then you know the rest. It's a long process (slow), keep an eye on it, check if it getting hot, swollen ,ect. Surely the battery has damage even if you get it to work. I would be trying to return it to the seller but I know that's not always possible.

It is going to require a new battery I would say.

It that for the pack? What is cell 1,2 and 3?