dwcraig1

I guess that part really doesn't matter, my thoughts were something wet and gooey on the board like flux or juice conducting micro voltage from part a to part b, something along those lines.

Is this a factory built mod or did you build it?

What happens with an external charger?

rbtx is in Orange County, Ca.

This is the settings for Steve's Hcigar VT133. What DNA200 mod do you have?

Go to "Options" and select "user interface" then "manufacturer" from drop down menu.

If it were me I'd open a ticket with Evolv and explain everything. It can't cost that much more to send three as opposed to one. Nothing to lose really, if they tell you to send them they most likely will take care of it. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

I thought that was what you were saying.

It's in post #1 of this thread.

https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna200.pdf It shows it well here.

That's the way they do when the fuse is blown.

Perhaps your hitting the 6 volt ceiling. 6.2 volts on the 75 and 6 volts on the 133.

What battery did you get? I replaced mine with a 1300 mah ( https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=59112 ) had to shorten the main wires and change the plug. Turned out the original battery was good, got juice on the JST causing #3 cell to slowly drain when idle.

I'm curious if Disley just means SMY mods or Evolv boards.

Still should be no higher than 0.5 amp either port (2 or 3) on any EScribe capable non Vapor Shark DNA mod. I don't know what VS charges with a data connection. I guess the thing to do would be to try it with a different computer just to eliminate that. Edit: Does it appear to actually charge extra fast?

On any non Vapor Shark 200 maximum amperage should be 0.5 amp with data path (computer) and 1 amp stand alone charger regardless of their respected output. The DNA 200 board controls charging. I'm curious if it's reading the correct amperage but suspect that it is. Edit: but then again most (not all, eg. USB 3.0) computers only will output 0.5 amps. Is there any possibility that there is juice on the bottom of the board around the USB?

By battery sag do you mean perhaps getting the weak battery indication? A dual cell 200 (133) will do nicely.

I only use nickel free SS430 from Unkamen and ss430 from Crazywire, I guess maybe that's what you see on there. The SS430 I'm calling CW test as it has an unpublished TCR.

If you decide to polish it you might want to consider clear coating afterward.

The 200 board powered by 2 cells (133) has a maximum output of 6 volts. 6 volts with 0.78 ohms is 47 watts. You need to lower your resistance by quite a bit. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

Check battery sag with device monitor, perhaps your batteries aren't up to the task...it's a starting point. What's the ohms of the coil?

Just guessing but because of the wording used here I suspect the case on the 60 to be different than the ones for the 75 and 250 "DNA 75 and 250: Choosing Black for buttons will drastically reduce your lead time. Matte Black cases are out of stock and will drastically increase your lead time. DNA 60: Choosing Silver for buttons, and Black, Red, or Blue for the case will drastically reduce lead time. Edit: I see that I misinterpreted as saying (60) Black, Red, or Blue for the case will drastically increase lead time not reduce lead time so now I have no idea.

Yes, a 250

I ordered one as soon as they went up for sale. I have no insider information. I suspect they will be Modcrate Silo 900's. To be honest I'm hoping for that.

That's the one that I start with but make quite of few changes. Thermal, battery curve and mod resistance are as Steve set them, here is mine: Edit: I tried it....it works. My_VT133.ecig