dwcraig1

Use the button circled in red. but with resister wire such as Kanthal the device will recognize it as such. No CSV file is needed for Nichrome or Kanthal. Your attached CSV file is of the type used....btw

I'm not sure what the problem is but the device does monitor board temperature and if too warm will cut off the charging. Sorry but I don't know what the numbers are. Check in Device Monitor what the temps are during charging and post it. Oh, pretty hard to do with a wall charger...duh On 2nd thought you can set the screen to show board temp

That's the way I understand it, only makes the battery gauge more accurate.

Here: OriginalSDNA75settings.ecig

This will set it to Evolv's manufacturer's settings not the mod maker's

I wonder...any e liquid on the balance tap?

Well if that's your only DNA mod I understand you wanting to hang on to it. Open another ticket with Evolv before too much time passes....

I just checked my VT133 and it shows 0.01 volt on #3, but I think the various readings are normal enough....especially when all else is working OK

Darn that's some tiny stuff.

http://vapenw.com/hcigar-vt133-evolv-dna200 Use code "BOO15 ", brings it down to $85

I'm pretty sure they will help with it anyway...open a ticket and find out. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

While you can't change the battery bar you can show battery % in another field.

This is a total stab in the dark but here goes......is the battery by chance set to LiFePO4 instead of Lithium Polymer?

What does EScribe's Device Monitor show for cell voltages?

I want to now more about the "sparks" ...components on the board firing up? Or the coil?

I have two DNA40 boards here installed and working perfectly that have the fire buttons snipped off by using flush cutting pliers. Both work perfectly. I just pulled one of the buttons that I had cut off out of my desk drawer and checked it electrically, the two legs on each end of end of the switch are connected internally. When the button is pressed all legs are connected. Note that with the switch installed on the board the pads on the lower side (towards center) are battery voltage and when the button is pressed the two upper pads are supplied with battery voltage. So I checked one of the installed boards with the fire button cut off, only the one lower pad (the one on the "out" side of board) had battery voltage. The two upper pads both became "hot" when my external fire button was pressed. So I think it would work just fine but from what I see with this 40 it would be the two lower pads that might be better if bridged. Heck, on my other one I think I cut off all three buttons......Flask clone.

I guess that you aren't wanting to put it back. You can just remove the cover, disc and rubber part. On the DNA40 I snipped the four "legs" with no added problems, I would think to 200 would be the same but it might be good to wait for more answers.

I don't know what the hardware cell cut off on the DNA250 board is, I have asked but not got an answer yet. On the DNA200 board the hardware cut off is 2.85 volts, this is under load. The board is intended to be generally powered by a lipo pack so the cell cut off is higher than it would be for 18650's. I wouldn't be surprised if the hard cell cut off is the same on both boards. My estimate for your watt hours is 23 - 24. For a DNA200 board powered by 18650's I use 2.9 volts soft cell cut off and 3.09 with lipo. Running Battery Analyzer will give you the proper figures if you wish to do so.

A couple of questions. What it does Escribe Device Monitor show for cell voltages? Is your battery set for "maximum puffs" or maximum recharges?

It seems this is unknown, maybe Evolv can set us straight on this. What is the hard cell cutoff on the DNA250?

Mine ask when necessary with SP3/4

That is the spot on the board but how are you going to attach to the 510? You might check the 3 board mount screws to assure they are tight, they supply the chassis ground. Be extra careful not to over tighten and break them.