dwcraig1
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Everything posted by dwcraig1
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If the four LiPo cells were wired in parallel instead of a series and the wiring was up to it the above example would be 120 amps @ 3.7 volts
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For the LiPo, your method is flawed. Let me use this as an example. One cell of the LiPo is rated for 30 amps @ 3.7 volts so a 4S with the same cells would be rated for 30 amps @ 14.8 volts.
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An interesting observation. The settings for the DNA100C look fine for a 21700 high amp cell. The settings for the DNA250C look good for 18650 high amp cells. The LipPo settings look good. The highest 18650 cells are 30 amp and 21700 about 35 amp max, you can set them accordingly if you wish. My 100C's are still set like in your post, I'm not concerned by it, if voltage drops to cell soft cutoff then it's still protected. My two DNA100C's are powered with Samsung 20S 18650's BTW.
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The first puff shows preheat more than 35 watts. It is hitting temp setting and throttling down. Start out by figuring what wattage that your build can handle, do that in wattage mode with TC off. Start low and go by taste. Then once you get that figured go back to TC, first with no preheat and then add some as needed. Your build and wicking as well as juice thickness and air flow will all effect how many watts it can handle. Note: Make sure that your cold coil settings is in fact made with a cold coil (room temp) otherwise the hot coil temp will not be close to accurate.
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While this isn't what your asking for you might want to at least give this theme a try, you can always put it back. While there are over a thousand themes available this one I believe will suit you well.
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Here's my 100c, same coil configuration, same juice.
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EScribe settings are a bit different on the non color boards. It's just part of Escribe I'd say.
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This is with a DNA60. I start with building a coil for the desired wattage. Here it's 40 watt range. My only real concern is the overhead dry hit protection. Mine vapes exactly like a non temperature control device (wattage), that is till something unexpected happens like I run it out of juice. If it hits my temp setting and throttles down I'm not at all happy with it. To each their own I guess but this is how I've been doing it for a number of years. The coil here is 28 gauge SS430, two strands twisted together prior to coiling.
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Rather than rating battery life in hours try measuring how many mils of juice you have gone through.
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Hadron Mini 100c screen flash
dwcraig1 replied to BlackFireDragon's topic in EScribe, Software and Firmware
I have two DNA100's. Both are set not to lock automatically. When asleep and I hit the fire button for the first time the screen does just what your video is showing. -
https://www.cremedevape.com/Lost-Vape-Orion-Plus-DNA-Pod-Kit-Carbon-Fibre
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I gave it a try on my College DNA60 and SXK BB, same results as you got. I even down graded the firmware with no results. I doubt if it will be of significate battery savings but find it interesting that it has the setting and doesn't do anything. You might try asking here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=3 Oh, and welcome to the forum.
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Probably Steam Crave Hadron Plus DNA250C
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Here is a snippet of my SS316 coil firing in Devise Monitor, while your resistance may be different. Notice the percentage change from cold to hot. Also use Atomizer Analyzer to see that your atomizer is making a solid connection. It should have a good connection before it bottoms out.
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A Samsung 40T is a 30 amp 4000 mah cell, the perfect choice for your mod. The Samsung 30T is another good choice, 35 amps and 3000 mah.
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It is a Samsung 20S 18650, a true 30 amp cell. 2000 mah
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Your voltage drop should be very close to mine, perhaps a bit less with your 21700.
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Here's mine firing at 65 watts
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The wire type needs to be something other than kanthal or nichrome and be in a profile for temp wire for temp vaping to be activated. Use the appropriate profile. Example Watts profile with Watts selected for material, no temperature control there. Does your voltage drop change a lot after it get warm? Where does the heat appear to come from?
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So if your able to get 80 watts out of your other mod with that cell then it is most likely a poor connection between the battery and it's contacts. That cell is at best a 20 amp cell but should do more than 40 watts.
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Hoover your mouse over the area indicated by red arrow. That is the voltage drop on your cell when firing. Report back to us what that voltage is.
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Both my desktop and notebook are running Windows 11 Pro with the latest updates with no problem connecting DNA devices.
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Look in Windows Device Manager when connected to the non C. If it looks like this Windows sees it but doesn't know what to do with it, no drivers, ect. If it isn't showing up then the device isn't communicating with Windows for what ever reason.
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Is it the same RBA in the different box?
