Wayneo

Thanks. Haven't busted one, but this info is good for others that need it.

Excellent. What part number did you go with?

Could you also post these in https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/category/6-dna-75-color-themes/ by the way? Thanks! That is where the Share Themes In Theme Designer takes people to. Then you can come back and hide this post.

Could you also post these in https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/category/6-dna-75-color-themes/ by the way? Thanks! That is where the Share Themes In Theme Designer takes people to. Then you can come back and hide this post.

Sometimes N80 coils will work but it's not as consistent as using proper TC material. There is a setting, but you're better off in the long run using the proper material/wire.

When you say 2 Ni coils, are you talking Ni200 (pretty much pure Nickel) or like N80 or N90 (Nichrome)?

I'm going to delete your duplicate post. In your 1st printscreen, 14 watts set, 11 watts average delivered. In your 2nd printscreen post, 10 watts, 8 watts average delivered. How long is your warranty? Has the modder @rm67 seen this type of screenshot? Was this normal in his testing?

Secondary click on trackpad. 2 finger tap/click.

I'm a Mac user and converted it to Windoze for you

Sure, why not. Select field. Right click field (should show copy control) Go to screen where you want it Right click (should show paste control) It'll show up in the right hand, checkerbox screen, with all prior conditions brought with it

I believe she's mistaken about using (TC and power curves) at the same time with AF ( @joeblowma can you correct or validate me here, please) While we loosely use the term TC, I don't ever remember in any datasheet seeing it. It's actually Temperature Protection, a temp high limit. TP/TC and Replay will always work best with a spaced coil of all the same material. Or the cores at least. it's easier to see/work out hot spots. Different materials heat/cool at different rates. Great suggestion! Esoteric coils (multi metals for 'staged' heating') is a pipe dream for TC, and just best used in Watts, maybe Replay (too many if's to write) BTW she CAN disable punch/preheat immediately after taking a hit WITH 1 PRESS OF AN ICON. I'm a bit surprised comrade @zark didn't mention that. To be fair to her, at one time, I wanted that level of control, or at least being able to set (TC) preheat power as a % of set power, but have come to realize I can easily control enough with the Punch setting.

@SamIAm Thank you for a solid PSA (Personal Service Announcement). Welcome to the forum, and I hope you're enjoying your mod(s) A quick question, so you now have 3 that work, or you returned the first 2? Quoting Sam "Try that before you return it."

Is this your first DNA Color mod? Can you post a printscreen of 'Atomizer Analyzer' also a printscreen of escribe with the profile you're using. And a third printscreen of 'Device Monitor' while firing, with cold ohms and live ohms checked. Was that a simple single wire? Each/every time you changed the atty, did you measure the Ω before firing the coil?

Are you sure it’s nichrome? Looking at your diagnostics picture I can’t believe I’m seeing any value for temp. Yours shows 232C.

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. If you use atomizer analyzer in escribe it will show that. The ohms should be steady with very little fluctuation. Like maybe 1 or 2 milliohms. Put another atty or coil, ideally simple single coil and see if that’s steady. If it’s not you need to look at your mod build connections (grounding and 510) all 4 of them 👍

What material is that coil? Go to that 'atomizer' screen, measure coil ohms.

Looks great 🤩 and helluva risk you took that worked. Kudos to you. 🙌

The entire premise of this thread is false. ❌ Who on earth ever heard of a "LiPo mech mod" being built with a highly sophisticated, variable wattage, regulator board? 🤔 🤪 She can solder, SHE'S A KEEPER! 🤩 Take her mod, and buy her a new enclosure and board of her choice. 🎉 She can solder, SHE'S A KEEPER! 🤩 Or slap that black and white ArcticFox theme on it and call it a day. 🗑 She can solder, SHE'S A KEEPER! 👍 You can let her know this board can fire the lowest ohm coil she can build. 🧨

Those are the EXACT same links that are posted for the 250C board! Glad that you got your mod sorted out.

If that were me, I'd reach out to VA and ask them directly. They do claim 'Hand-polished finish' OR because it's not DNA specific, look for a forum/group with more active modders

Huh? Can you provide a link for that, please.

Open a ticket with the 'Help Desk', give them the details. Link in my sig.

Did you actually check that the ribbon cable is pushed into the connector straight and far enough? Did you hear that definite click when you closed the connector?

Preheat applies extra power until the heating coil is up to operating temperature to shorten the delay between pressing the fire button and generating vapor. Because preheat is temperature based, it will not overheat or burn the vapor. The Preheat settings can be adjusted from the device. That #1 is the Punch setting - Scale 1-11, which is how close to your Set Temp before ending the Preheat settings Yes Similar to Preheat for TC vaping http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz# DJLSB Vapes has some good YouTube tutorials on the DNA Color chip. I highly suggest you watch at least one before you start changing things Welcome

It's good to leave the defaults set by the manufacturer until you understand what/why you're changing them. Those 'Advanced' settings allow you to (tailor/be more specific) the battery specs you actually have, for the mod. And other things. The closer you are to .2, the more watts you can use. Boost will briefly give you more watts than you have set to get the coil heat up quicker. The closer to 11, the more watts will be used. Using 'Device Monitor' you can enable/disable and view how your mod is operating. Battery in your case. DJLSB Vapes has some good YouTube tutorials (I don't regularly keep up with ANY youtuber and definitely not user comments)