shroomalistic

Places to buy DNA 250c Enclosures for custom builds

Recommended Posts

On 5/1/2018 at 1:18 PM, 67exec said:

I'm happy to report that the aromamizer plus works great with replay.  Dual26g wrapped in 0.3x0.1mm ribbon all 316l from lightning vapes. 3mm if 6/7 wrap .22 ohms.

5ae8af6b8f5af_04301812252.thumb.jpg.05858a2e35a90d8ec354c7fe8dfa7767.jpg

Very good to know, using a digiflavor themis with 3 core 30g wrapped in 38g 316l from advancedvapesupply 6 wraps dual coil comes in at .22 and works really well with replay. Will be ordering a Supreme Plus next week! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been using my paranormal 250c to hold me over till i get the rest of my part.  Instead of finishing my b box,  i got a blue n1 box, and an ipwm board, too big and issues with board.  Regretting not just finishing the dna first.  The modfather and scottua both look amazing on the b box and both work great on the paranormal in replay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/16/2018 at 12:27 PM, 67exec said:

The 250c won't work in that enclosure, and that Maxamps 2800 is closer to 1800mah, and voltage sag is terrible. Based on previous experience, the Maxamps will have 19wh-21wh total capacity vs a decent 4s 1600mah will be 22wh-24wh.

If you are dead set on 3s, I would buy a 5pin jst connectorLike this.  Then wire it like this except only jump pins 4 and 5 together instead of jumping 3 to 4, then 4 to 5 since I was using an old 2s batt I had laying around. Then if you do anything other than 4s, it Will show low battery until you set it as 2s or 3s with escribe.0322182347.thumb.jpg.0ee3c3ba514dfdefd9f60bcea8f61de5.jpg

0322182347b.thumb.jpg.ab8848df7040d03be2c374c86dc9fa64.jpg

Love that solution, allows for most flexibility, I've been soldering a 3s to the board and jumping the last two on the board, but I'm tied to a 3s on that board now unless I want to switch jsts, think I'll start doing it this way because I just mod the connector on the battery and can run 2s,3s or 4s on the board. Excellent solution sir! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, 67exec said:

It seemed like the easiest way to me.

You, Frogmod and steamer861 and a couple others always have very valuable advice, we don't always agree, but I can't argue the logic in anything you guys have ever recommended, I for one really appreciate the help you spend your time giving, makes us all better for it, thank you and please keep sharing!! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/16/2018 at 1:05 PM, 67exec said:

I used that box, and battery, ati board holder with drill template, and some m1.6x12mm screws and nuts from the hardware store. Lots of guys glue their board holders, but that makes it super hard if the screen dies. I used a tactile switch that came in a 12 pack from the local hobby store, they were in the arduino stuff for $3.99. I ground out so it will hold 4s 1800. And I use dean's t- connectors since my rc stuff uses them. Also grabbed my board from ati

0416181046.thumb.jpg.1105839bdb8c825613c340619ae796f5.jpg0409180647a.thumb.jpg.8eb2bc1466b11294c9111fadea9e89cb.jpg

I'm going to be building my own 250C soon, so I stumbled upon this thread while doing my research. I noticed that above you said "I ground out so it will hold 4s 1800". What did you grind? How did that battery not fit?

I was thinking I would use the same case and battery you linked in your original response to this thread. The size looks great and that 4S battery should give me better battery life than my current two 30Qs do.  From what I can tell from the specs... the lipo battery you linked shouldn't be too wide since it is 26mm while the inner dimension of the enclosure is 27mm. The height shouldn't be an issues either since the enclosure is 108mm and the battery is 89mm. So I'm just a bit confused!

Lastly, the five charing wires on the battery plug into the bottom of the DNA board in order, starting with black wire to ground on the board, then green to "1" on the board, yellow to "2" on the board, etc, correct?

 

Thank you!

 

 

 

Edited by DkPatriots

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@DkPatriots Top right corner of the second pic you quoted, and then the back lip on the door. Don't have any pics on my phone, and away from home for the weekend. Only thing I would do differently is to use 3 screws instead of the magnets to hold the door on. 

On a side note, I get better battery life on a 2000mah 2s venom lipo than I do from 2 30Qs 

Edited by 67exec

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@DkPatriots

I used a different 1800mAh 4s battery. Dimensions were a little larger than the turnigy, but I got it to fit with quite a bit more grinding. A little creativity allowed me to use all four magnets as well...

Check out my build HERE. The focus isn't on the battery, but it is included.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@67exec That's beautiful! My soldering skills are not nearly good enough to do something like that (yet at least). 

"On a side note, I get better battery life on a 2000mah 2s venom lipo than I do from 2 30Qs" - That's what I'm looking for. I can drain through 2 30Q batteries by early afternoon, so I have to charge during the day. That isn't a huge deal during the week, but it gets annoying when I take a day trip and need to carry along 2-4 extra batteries. 

 

@Ak89 So now that's i'm not tired and I re-read this whole thread. It appears the 1600mAh 4S fits into the AlpineTech B box with no grinding, but the 1800mAh didn't fit and you needed to grind it down. How much of a difference in battery life is there between the two packs?

 

@Both Of you:

There doesn't seem to be a Mooch for Lipos, and Mooch removed all his lipo test data. According to Mooch, two 30Q batteries at 10 amps have about 7.5 watt hours of juice in them, so two gives me 15 Wh. I'm looking for 20-25 Watt hours from the build I plan to do. Ak89 said that "a decent 4s 1600mah will be 22wh-24wh", which means with that 1600mAh battery I could go with the B Box and (I believe) not need to grind down anything inside the box to fit it with a DNA250C. Any idea how many Watt hours the 2200mAh 4S or the 2200mAh 4S Graphene would give me in comparison? I could go with either of those batteries and the AlpineTech N1 enclosure, which should fit either packs in it without needing to grind anything down.

Could either of you provide me with a link to the white plugs you attach to the bottom of your DNA chips so that you can plug the charging port of the battery right into that? That solution looks a *LOT* easier than cutting the charge port off and soldering the wires directly to the board.

 

Edit: It looks like the 1600 mAh battery will fit into a GXL2 Box, which is slightly smaller than the B Box. Any idea if I can save some space and go with the GXL2 over the B box? I'm now thinking I'd like to go small (GLX2) or large (N1), as the B Box seems unnecessary at this point. N1 for 2200mAh, or GLX2 for 1600mAh.

Edit2: I found AK89's picture of the GXL box with the 1600 mAh battery in it. No grinding needed for it to fit. So It looks like I'm definitely going to go with the GXL2 box I linked, or the N1... depending on what I can find out about battery life.

Thank you both! You have been extremely helpful!

 

 

Edited by DkPatriots

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@DkPatriots  I haven't used any other LiPo on my 250C. Just 1800mAh. Based on my experience, and remaining battery life at the end of the day, I'm sure I wouldn't have had any problems with 1600mAh. 

Also, to calculate total Watt-hours, you can use ohm's law (My profile pic).

P  = V times I  (P = Power/Watts, V = Voltage, I = Current/Amps)

 Nominal voltage of the battery pack (14.8V for a 4s LiPo) times capacity (1800 mAh (milliamp-hour) in my case) equals approximate Watt-hours.

So, 14.8x1.8=26.64.  (1800mAh equals 1.8Ah)

Connectors that I used are listed in my above-linked post. (I built custom adapters to save space)  However, in most cases, you could just use the JST connector that comes with the DNA250C board and plug the battery balance connector into it...

Finally, just to clarify, the image you linked of a GXL box was not posted by me. I used a "B" box, which is a bit bigger. I thought about getting an "N1" box, but the overall dimensions were too bulky for an all-day carry type vape that I was going for. My B-box fits nicely in a back pocket.... Ultimately it becomes a trade-off that only you can decide on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The battery that I used in my gxl2 build that I posted on the 1st page  4s 1600 is available in US stock, and Global stock for those across the pond

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now