gizman

Do you have the short one in alum? I would be interested....

Funny, I was going to say basically the same thing, that at over 75 watts or so I get much better than what the numbers say I should with a 3S or 4S lipo than I ever got at that wattage, even running VTC6's. Ironic that sometimes numbers DO lie

Assuming 2600MaH dual 18650's, you would be looking at ~18.7 watt hours, 3000MaH dual 18650's would be roughly 21.6 watt hours, if you could find a 1300MaH 4S that would fit it would give you about 19.2 watt hours which would be a closer comparison, or an 1800 3S would be about 20 watt hours. The 1000MaH 4S I ran for about a month would sometimes need charged by the time I got home from work, for me and my habits anyways, the 1300MaH 4S and the 1800MaH 3S both pretty much get me all day with a full charge in the morning, just like dual 18650's used to.

You, Frogmod and steamer861 and a couple others always have very valuable advice, we don't always agree, but I can't argue the logic in anything you guys have ever recommended, I for one really appreciate the help you spend your time giving, makes us all better for it, thank you and please keep sharing!!

Love that solution, allows for most flexibility, I've been soldering a 3s to the board and jumping the last two on the board, but I'm tied to a 3s on that board now unless I want to switch jsts, think I'll start doing it this way because I just mod the connector on the battery and can run 2s,3s or 4s on the board. Excellent solution sir!

Very good to know, using a digiflavor themis with 3 core 30g wrapped in 38g 316l from advancedvapesupply 6 wraps dual coil comes in at .22 and works really well with replay. Will be ordering a Supreme Plus next week!

Loving this mod, turned out great, ty Frogmod!

I may need to look at that for my wife, she loves her 75c's

That is absolutely ridiculous lol!

I am sorry to hear you haven't had good luck with them. Very impressive, good lord that thing is insane! I haven't been in it since the early 90s, my dad and I built some badass machines for what it was back then. Mad respect though, beautiful beast!

Well said sir. I obviously need to invest in a printer, I think that may be my next purchase. After I get these next two mods built I think I will take the time to learn some new skills

Too wide and too thick unfortunately, but I do have a different sized venom that I have had no issues with. For this mod, the battery must be smaller than 68x35x28, the maxamps actual dimensions are 67x34x27 and I can't fit anything bigger than that in the mod. The venom I have is 4mm taller, 2mm wider and 1mm deeper than what they advertised (although it worked in the mod I purchased it for), this seems to be a common thing as I have an arris I can't use in anything. I have a 1000 mah 4s Turnigy 20c in the mod in my hand, and it's worked great, but I will be pulling it when the 1300 Mah maxamps gets here, if nothing else than for the added watt hours. Has anyone tried any of the graphene batteries out there? Are they superior in any way to a normal lipo? I've seen them popping up everywhere but haven't researched them at all...

So I'm looking for about an 1800 mah 3s smaller than 68mmx35mmx28mm, what should I buy that would be less than $55 for 3 of them and of better quality? If I'm not looking at the right brands point me in the right direction if you can please... Someone else pointed me to Maxamps, I'm definitely open to suggestions =)

Not really buying for the warranty, but I did read that, so my expectations before I purchased were properly set. I was just tired of replacing batteries or getting ones with weak cells and dealing with all the people selling the cheaper batteries and coughed up the $50 for a maxamps and have had one going for 3 years, and another at 2, and a third almost a year into it, and no issues. I'm voting with my dollars until they screw me, then I'll find another brand I'm sure =)

Point we'll taken, and I own many lipos from fullymax, crazy pony, luimier <sp>, arris, turnigy and other manufacturers as well. And I have replaced many them several times cheaply. I typically solder my lipos directly to the board to save space, and so replacing them isn't something I relish. I have a dna 200 with a maxamps 1800 mah that I am still getting over 20 watt hours out of 3 years later, pretty sure over a million puffs on it but I've reset enough times that I'm not sure, plus I had switched the 200 for a 250 board (same 1800 mah battery though) for about a year and a half, until the USB finally gave up so I put the 200 back in it. Now I'm just rambling but the gist is the battery should only be about 19.9 watt hours and I'm still getting over 20 after 3 years and wearing out a dna board on it. Just saying that I had to replace a DNA board before the battery wore out, and all cells are still balanced and charging/discharging at (nearly) the same rates as when new. I check it weekly just because of its age, I will retire it the second I see a weak cell, but it just keeps on working. I have 3, the other two aren't as old but are just as solid so far. Received a fourth today and have one coming on backorder and then all my lipos will be maxamps. I would never discourage someone from using their brand of choice, but in my (limited) experience, of the brands I have used, Maxamps has cost me less in the long run... I certainly respect your opinion, and am not putting down any less expensive brands, I just prefer what has treated me best in my experience. Hence why I insist =)

Yeah, I love them as well, but I end up scratching them, and they are so BIG and HEAVY, if you work with someone on Shapeways instead of making what you want fit in the enclosure you can just have an enclosure made that fits what you want perfectly, and is of a lightweight durable material that doesn't show scratches. And if you do mess one up, just reprint. I understand they aren't for everyone, but they work best for me. Frogmod (laguz75 on Shapeways) worked with me in his spare time over several weeks to get me exactly what I wanted, I can't thank him enough, very smart, creative guy that will help you out if you are looking for something specific and can't find what you want. Probably others that would do the same, but he really did me a solid and put up with my BS, so I really appreciate it Frogmod if you are reading this!

Yeah, they aren't cheap, but I can build the whole mod for around $200 US (or cheaper if I didn't insist on Maxamps lipos), would cost $250 for a Boxer or the like (and you would still need to buy batteries). I printed my first DNA 200 off of Shapeways 3 years ago and it's still going strong, have dropped it, shoot, tripped and threw it against concrete, the mod was fine, atty glass was broken, but the material shapeways uses is super durable. I have a DNA250 that I printed almost 2 years ago, it's still going strong, and nearly unbreakable. It seems expensive, but compared to $300-$400 for other lipo mods it's so much better, and lighter than a dual 18650 Zinc or Alum. mod. I've bought products from all sorts of manufacturers from China to the US, and nothing seems to take a licking and keep on ticking like the ones I 3D print on Shapeways and make myself.

Laguz75 just posted this to Shapeways for me: https://www.shapeways.com/product/E28XXKAEX/tool-30mm-mod?optionId=65433302 Ordered two, one will sport the Maxamps 1300MaH 4s up to 400W, the other I will be using the Maxamps 1800MaH 3s for up to 300W, I will post picks of both once I have them built, this will go with the one I made and posted earlier in the thread, right now they say they will ship on about 5/15, so I anticipate having them both put together that weekend. In the meantime here is another pic of the first DNA250C that I printed and built from Shapeways.

Really? Had mine for 2 or 3 weeks now with zero replay issues. I'm playing a puff today (Tuesday) that I saved on Saturday. I use SS316L exclusively, what wire are you using?

Hope you don't mind me jumping in too, same mod as steamer861 I think (mine is sized for a maxamps 1300MaH 4S, but in black, used a Cisco v2 510 from Avidvaper.com so I had to shim it 1mm, lov ing replay!!!

oh yeah, thank you steamer861 for the link to the screws, I'll pick up some of those when I reprint. Did you pre drill prior, if so what size? Did you tap it or just have the screw create it's own threads? I like your idea of the toothpick, if the double sided tape doesn't resolve it I'll try that before I shave anything off the fire button, thank you so much for the reply and the help =)

Beautiful! I am a Royals fan and seriously considered the blue, looks awesome! Agreed, can't thank Frogmod enough, he was super easy to work with and made all the modifications I asked for, his cases are only going to get better, and mine works fine as is, keep up the good work Frogmod!

Basically I need to trim down some of the bottom 3 buttons, when I tighten the board all the way down one or more of the bottom buttons are constantly pressed, pretty sure I can just sand/trim them down just a bit. Right now I just loosened the bottom screw on the board and if when I pull the USB it pulls the board too tight I just hit one of the 3 buttons and it pushes the board back a bit and it's all good. Like I say, some minor adjustments and they should be fine. The Fire button, however (see picture), the top of it is in the mod further than the bottom, so it sits at kind of an angle. Whey I push the top for the back it sits out perfectly, just after the first press there is no pressure at the top of the button and it just sits a little cocked. I may be able to fix that with some double-sided spongy tape between the top of the button and the board, it's a pretty minor thing and is more aesthetics and feel than functionality. I had some self taping screws meant for plastic that I got with the last shapeways DNS 250 I made, they worked fine for the screwing the board down... the two pieces of the case, however, I didn't have as much luck with. The link provided was for Machine screws, and didn't have a thread count or length, so I wasn't sure what to get, and with Machine Screws you have to thread them, and I don't have a tap and die set for plastic or in the thread counts that were listed on the machine screws. It would have been nice if the link took me to a screw I could order that I knew would work, but the link takes you to a page where you have to decide thread counts, lengths, etc before you could order anything and I just felt more comfortable going to a hardware store and finding something I knew was long enough and would hopefully work. I decided to go with some 1 1/4" #4-40 wood screws, I knew the head would be a little big on them, but they should work (and I could grind the heads to a slightly smaller shape and everything would fit). In my anxiousness to get it together I tried one of the screws in one of the bottom holes and it went in fine, so I put on in the top and due to the extra material and me not taking the time to pre-drill all holes to appropriate diameters, I broke a screw in one of the top holes. Tried drilling it out and broke the drill bit in it. So yeah, some issues with screws, and now I need to at least reprint the back at some point. Maybe we could collaborate on a modified design that will still work with the 1300 MaH MaxAmps whenever it gets here =) All in all though, very, very happy. Everything I've mentioned I can either fix or I caused myself (there may be something you could do with the fire button). I may have the first DNA 250C in Kansas City and that is priceless. I can't thank you enough for how quickly you got it up, modified to my requests, with only minor modifications needed - Frogmod you rule! Casey

Everything went together pretty good, some slight issues with the buttons, finding proper screws, etc, used a Cisco V2 510, it has a 2mm deep deck, so I had to shim it 1mm, all in all I am loving it so far.

I'll post more later, battery on back order but grabbed a 1000MaH Turnigy 4S to tide me over until the maxamps gets here, replay is amazing!