Ak89

Full Color RGB LED switch: Success!

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ATI B box

ONPOW 16mm RGB momentary pushbutton (Common Anode, WITHOUT Resistor)

GFORCE 1800 mAh 4s "Elite Series" 40C LiPo

Varitube V2 510 Connection

12 AWG Silicone Wire (Battery and Output)

"Deans" T-Connectors

JST-PH Right Angle Balance Connector

Custom JST-PH to JST-XH Adapter

...And LOTS OF DIE GRINDING!!!!

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I ground a 16mm cutout downward from the original 12mm CNC'd hole. Moving it as far as possible from the 510 without leaving a gap that wouldn't be covered by the switch bezel.

However, there was still a clearance and shorting issue.

So.... More grinding on the switch.

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I wanted the largest possible battery I could fit in the box, but that left concerns with the balance connector. I went with a right angle "PH" header on the board, and adapted that to the "XH" that comes standard on most batteries.

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I was already going big on this build and decided to push the limits running 12AWG wire throughout. (I know, beyond datasheet spec.... but I made it work.)

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Aluminum sinks heat very well, hence the ugly 510 ground. Just couldn't get things hot enough. I attached directly to the brass nut.

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Wiring the switch was tricky.

******************I don't recommend anyone try this unless you are VERY confident in your skills at soldering tiny points.******************

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Black (ish) wire to the right is common positive (+) voltage (3.6v regulated). 

Gold/Copper wire is "blue" LED ground point. 

Red and Green wires are the ground points for their respective color.

***NOTE: Solder points are chosen to avoid using the onboard resistors. (ie. Attached to the side opposite the LED)

I run my own "external" resistors at the switch... 

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Resistor Values that I used: (A bit higher might be desired, since these values put the LED current beyond spec and a bit too bright, and probably affecting overall lifespan of the diode(s).)

62 ohm - RED

22 ohm - GREEN and BLUE

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And the battery ended up being larger than stated on the website by a mm or two in all directions, which required even more grinding to allow for clearance. Primarily on the lid.

20180704_003419.thumb.jpg.7da76e86868f449f7f133156ab311415.jpgNot pretty, but necessary.

But everything fit. Not much space remaining....

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In case someone asks: Yes, I partially unwrapped the battery to slide the reinforcing shrink tube down the wire. I needed the additional bend radius....

I apologize for the quality of some pics. Build happened over numerous days, different lighting conditions, and a couple phones/cameras.

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Hopefully this is kind of what you were looking for. Images pulled from datasheet, marked with colored points to denote solder locations.

I'm glad to help.

Feel free to ask questions. I will provide any info I can.

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As far as the door lip: I went wild with the dremel and removed a lot of it. I still used a piece of folded cardboard though to push the battery far enough from the wall of the case that it didn't interfere with the magnets.

Don't have any pictures right now, but could post some later if anyone is interested....

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26 minutes ago, Ak89 said:

As far as the door lip: I went wild with the dremel and removed a lot of it.

That's what I had planned on for a corner before I finally figured out.  Bet it works just fine and even a little lighter, little...

 

32 minutes ago, Ak89 said:

Hopefully this is kind of what you were looking for.

Perfect.  Much more clear that way, thank you!

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Thanks! Yes, I like stepping out and doing things that haven't been done before. Not seeing anything posted on these forums about anyone actually doing the switch was all the inspiration I needed. Challenge Accepted! 😁

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@Ak89 Nice job on the modding mate! Not a fan of the RGB but sure do enjoy seeing people do stuff like this :) Again props for sharing the project.

Could you please share what is the enclosure you're looking? It seems like it was CNC cut correct?

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@engmia

Yes it is CNC cut.

THIS is the one I used. 

Could not find anything pre-cut with 16mm fire button hole in this box size. I wanted something I could carry all day, every day. Not a coffee table mod. And it is working amazing for that purpose. Battery life is great too. I easily vape from 6am to midnight, or later, and usually have around 20% remaining when I put it on charge. Approx. 25mL per day. Once, I had it down to 9%, but that was after another 5-10mL.

Previously, using 18650s, I was halfway through my third pair by the time I put everything to charge. 4s LiPo is MUCH more efficient at the higher wattage, comparatively.

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On 7/28/2018 at 5:17 AM, Ak89 said:

@engmia

Yes it is CNC cut.

THIS is the one I used. 

Could not find anything pre-cut with 16mm fire button hole in this box size. I wanted something I could carry all day, every day. Not a coffee table mod. And it is working amazing for that purpose. Battery life is great too. I easily vape from 6am to midnight, or later, and usually have around 20% remaining when I put it on charge. Approx. 25mL per day. Once, I had it down to 9%, but that was after another 5-10mL.

Previously, using 18650s, I was halfway through my third pair by the time I put everything to charge. 4s LiPo is MUCH more efficient at the higher wattage, comparatively.

Thanks a lot! Ahh Aplinetech, how didn't I recognize them. Seems very reasonable, well done on the mod. What wattage/settings do you usually vape?

For efficiency I can highly recommend the new 20700/21700 batteries. My 20700 Sanyo 20700B came in last week and I'm surprised really. On my DNA75C, I cannot kill the battery for vaping two full days. I'm taking over 48 hours here, they are even getting me to the night of the third day, however I'm still doing testing on them (and they are new batteries). I am vaping on 15W/20W preheat, TC on, Replay Off, Kayfun Prime.

I was waiting for the 40T, but when I saw the price on that one when it hit the marked a month ago or so in Europe, I was like what... It cost 15 pounds for a single cell. For that price I instead bought two Sanyo 20700B's and a new Sony VTC5A to have a spare for my DNA75 mod, which is now my backup, should anything screw up (hopefully not).

Albeit on paper they weren't as good as the 40T's, I'm extremely happy with the performance of the 20700B in the range I specified. I haven't tested in higher output scenarios yet with RDA's and etc.

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