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Evolv 510 question


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OK thank you.

I was just messing with it and I think I had figured out the order right before I checked you posting back.  But I was confused because I kept thinking of how the clip would snap around something because I couldn't find a place it would work. But I saw the little groove inside the 510. So basically you have to push the clip into the 510 while squeezing it together somehow?  What's the best way to get it in there? Needle nose pliers ?

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Yea, it doesn't need squeezing if there is no atty in it, 45 degree circlip pliers are best if you have them, if you have very fine needle nose pliers the may work.  Remember if you are screwing it in the wire will turn with it so it is best to assemble once the outer is fixed to the case or solder the positive out after fitting the 510 or you will rip the pad off the board.

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  • 3 weeks later...
combatwombat said:

How snug should the contact pin go into the insulator? Mine i really have to press hard to get it in there.



It should move up an down, I read some where that they have beta units and should be doing QC on them, check there is not a tiny proud bit on the hex section, I had one and a light tap with a pin hammer sorted it out.   This should not be a problem when Evolv officially release them.
20151014_102427_-_Copy_-_Copy.jpg 
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  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the reply.

 

Interesting. Well I don't have a spanner wrench small enough to fit those holes, but I am totally going to use those holes to put some screws through to keep it from backing out, LOL.

 

It never matters how much I torque a 510 through a typical aluminum enclosure or whether I put a backup nut on the bottom, they always seem to back out one day. Of course, I'm rough on things. I've considered thread lock, but I'm not willing to go the chemical solution yet.

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I would think that only one small screw would be needed to secure the 510 from moving in the enclosure... maybe you could drill a smaller hole in the 510 (between two of the existing holes but a much smaller hole) and drill and tap the enclosure since you will be drilling and tapping the enclosure anyway....

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One screw should be enough, but 2 would be pleasing to my aesthetics. No real reason to drill more holes in the 510. I'm sure I'll be able to find an Allen head machine screw that will fit the existing holes nicely. If not I'll modify the existing holes to accomdate the head. I'll post pics when I'm able to focus on this build. It's going to have me running to a fastener shop I imagine....monday seems likely.

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The circlip can be inserted using the "start to end" method.  Start it in positon at one end, hold that end in place with a small tool and "gently" push around it with another small tool, forcing it down and into position.  Removal is best done with proper circlip pliers.

I've never had an Evolv 510 come lose in any of the enclosures I've built, whether using a 1/2-20 stop nut or threading in the enclosure body and I'm one of those people that routinely breaks/strips bolts when tightening them up.  Another trick you might want to consider, depending on the enclosure, is to drill and tap for a set screw to hold the 510 more solidly if you feel it's necessary.  That way it's completely hidden.  I did that on an ERM enclosure trying to insure the best possible ground connection for the 510.

Edited by awsum140
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On an ERM case that I broke a screw off in one of the boards mounting holes I put a machine screw with a soldering tab and nut through one of the 510' holes through the case and soldered a wire to the tab and output GND. I had to mount the screw that used in my Dremel.  I chucked it in my Dremel and run it's head against a file to get it to fit the hole properly. Just saying.

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