alee132

So knowone knows if I can reuse these pads? I guess I will go with your suggestion. Thanks for the support and taking the time to read and answer my question! Today I putting my new replacement dna200 back in my Reuleaux that evolv sent me as well as my second modcrate silo 1300 dna200 install. They are such an easy install it's not even funny. I love the looks and feel of the silo 1300 mods, just don't like how long battery lasts and swapping the batteries is not an option with this enclosure. I had an enclosure before that I did swap lipo's out instead of charging them in the mod but it lead to many issues. I think it may have lead to one dna200 having pads lift off board from moving the battery - and + wires around too much. I also had the wires snap 2 times from back and forth over time and had to resolder and it just became obvious that it was best to install battery and not mess with it anymore. Now I just install it and charge with onboard balance via usb. But in doing so, currently I have been using just the one dna200 mod, I won't use anything else so I would have to vape and charge at same time, which is why I got another silo 1300, so I could vape one down and then charge it and swap to the other already fully charged silo and so on. I don't trust vaping and charging at the same time, as in the past I have had usb ports snap from the board 2 times because of mod dropping while vaping and charging. It's a weak point of the mod and with a dna200 since it's attached to the main board, you can't replace the charging port with a separate cheap board like I did with the sx350 original.

I had my Reuleaux dna200 board go bad on me, it actually had one of the two large square inductor's come off the board completely. I sent it in and got a replacement board from Evolv, which btw as always they were a pleasure to work with and were great about doing the replacement. When I took this board out I noticed a couple things I didn't expect. First thing was the wiring seemed a bit small. Not the balance wiring but the battery wiring, the 510 wiring was large enough as well. Also it was wired strangely. Anyways, that's not what I want to know about. It had these two little square blocks, one of which was soldered between the B- and the balance ground solder point. The other was between then B+ and the balance point 1. I was able to remove the 2 little blocks and keep them. Although they are all black looking now and not sure how good they are but they still have the same shape. Anyways, I want to know what those little blocks are and if I should reuse them and wire it the same way? Or is there a better or different way of doing it? Also should I remove and replace the small wiring from the sled to the dna200 board? Will it make a difference in sag under load? Here is pic that I found on this forums posted by vaping bad in this post: /topic/67734-topic/

Yes it's one of the big ones marked in red. So will evolv let me send it to them for repair ? Do they do that as I don't trust wismec to fix it.

OK I opened it up finally to figure out what is shaking around. It turns out one of the 2 big square heat sinks has come loose. Is that fixable ? Or am I screwed now ?

Now today it started doing some thing else. I unlocked the mod by pressing fire five times. Then it lets me fire the atomizer but then it locks itself again in the middle of during it. I can only unlock and take partial puffs before it locks all over again. What in the world is going on now? I'm a but worried now.

Now today it started doing some thing else. I unlocked the mod by pressing fire five times. Then it lets me fire the atomizer but then it locks itself again in the middle of during it. I can only unlock and take partial puffs before it locks all over again. What in the world is going on now? I'm a but worried now.

I took front plate off but it's nothing inside that area. It sounds like it's up top area or maybe inside the battery contact housing area.

I have had this mod for a few months. Just recently I noticed that when I moved my mod quickly one time, I heard something rattle. So I took of the tank, removed battery's, tank, and held onto the buttons, yet it still rattles. I actually think it feels like something is moving around when I am shaking it but it's working fine. I just hate the noise. I am not sure I want to bother with taking it apart. I have a feeling it's either something around the 510 area inside or inside the battery contact housing, like a spring, piece of plastic or something. Anyways else ever heard of this or had this happen or think you know what it may be?

You are correct. I haven't heard for sure on it but logically it has to be a buck/boost (step up/down as you said) chip. The dna200 was a buck only chip, which is probably a huge reason why they couldn't do the single cell with it. Between this new chip ranging from 1-75 watts and it only taking a single cell, it has to be a buck/boost chip. I mean they could of made it boost only but then it wouldn't be able to go down to lower wattage's such as 1 watt without buck.

I also heard this but not sure if its got any truth behind it. I am curious if this is a real thing or not. Does anyone know anything for sure about it. If they did, I would be surprised. It would be for some new technology if they did I am sure.

Now that is exciting. I really hope it's got something new about it that others don't some new technology. They never did put out beta type mods like they said was going to happen. I really just wanted enclosure but now mod crate is doing it. BTW after seeing your post about evolv tank. I looked everywhere and found nothing about it. What do you know about it and how? Special cool? Release date? Pic? Etc.... I am still looking but not anything but your post. Is it a rta? Hope so because I refuse to but could unless it's like sx pure were it's rewickable and lasts months.

That's what I am saying. I also have seen pics of someone with the actual yihi sx pure tank that looks better. I think its best to wait and see what is up with it and let some better tanks come out with it and if they don't release a actual working tcr or it isn't figured out then its pointless.

I was wondering why this wouldn't work for dna200 or any other mod if the tcr was correct in temp mode. I have been watching any video's that come out about this tank or coil that I can. Anyways, I think one shows what we were looking for. In this video the guy uses the sx mini ml class and goes into the sx pure mode, it shows the tcr setting as well or so it seems to and its showing, TCR .00088, try that out and see if it works. Here is the video for you to look at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDYHK4L7jr8 Start around 3:10 or a little before to see what he is doing. One thing I don't get about all the video's I have seen on it. It shows them going in and picking temp and sx pure mode but then they say you need to go to power mode before using it. Doesn't that make it not in temp mode so it can dry burn? I don't get that. Please let me know how it goes if you try this. As I want to get this tank for the coil to try but I only have dna200 mods and a sx mini m class which doesn't have the sx pure mode as of yet and I bet they won't put out firmware upgrade because they want you to have to buy a new mod for this tank which I refuse to do. But I do like the looks of there new sx mini Q dual battery mod but I won't buy it till it drops in price by alot as I love and prefer my dna200 mods so far.

thanks for the tips. I don't have any special pliers.

OK thank you. I was just messing with it and I think I had figured out the order right before I checked you posting back. But I was confused because I kept thinking of how the clip would snap around something because I couldn't find a place it would work. But I saw the little groove inside the 510. So basically you have to push the clip into the 510 while squeezing it together somehow? What's the best way to get it in there? Needle nose pliers ?

I have an evolv 510 and I am trying to use it but I don't really get how it's supposed to go together. I don't see where the clip and washer go and how it all holds together at all.

What you see on the board isn't a solder pad. Its what's showing now that it's no longer there. Thanks for the Reply but it's of no help. If it was that simple I wouldn't post. I have been doing this a while but first time a solder pad actually came off a board ever.

I don't know where you got that from but I didn't rip anything off. I know how to solder but that's not the issue. Maybe because the pictures arent great or you misunderstand but the actual solder pad Isn't attached to the board but it's actually fallen off of the board itself. The wire still has the actual solder pad soldered to it. There is no solder pad to solder to on the board anymore as it's attached to the wire. If it just needed to be soldered I would have done it myself and never posted. If I don't hear back about this soon I guess I will start support ticket.

My first board stopped working. Got new one but now pad is off board. Can I epoxy it back in or is it a gonner? The pad is still soldered to the wire. I have hot glue/epoxy but I don't want to do anything that will less up chances of getting it replaced by evolv. I really just don't want to pull the chip out and deal with rma and it's gonna be a pain to get chip out of box for 2nd time. I really would rather avoid doing so but if not possible on. I just don't know if it will work if I put it back on. I have seen it done when it has only been partially off but this is all the way off and right next to fuse as well so it worries me a little.

So basically the reason you didnt add 2amp charging to the dna200 board and went with 1amp charging for them was to keep the board size down. I guess I understand that but I think it would of made more sense with 2 amp charging since its built around lipos. They can charge alot quicker than that. 2 amp isnt too high too were its going to effect cycle count that much if really at all. The 1amp charging for lipos is slow enough that i got a good lipo balance charger so i can swap lipos and charge at 2-3amps and only takes 15-20 mins.

Just curious if that was still in motion. It's been forever now since I have heard anything about it. Seems like they would have released it by now but maybe they are not going to until screen shortage is taken care of. Anyone know anything about this or anywhere else one can get a nice anodized aluminum enclosure that is made specifically for the dna200 like the reference mod or similar.

Alright thank you bap you are a gentleman and a great modder. Will do.

Dna200 was doing fine up until today, I have built many a mod and never had an issue before and I have been loving my dna200. But today when I went to turn it on, it is only going on for a second. Only long enough to show opening message, then off. If I hold down fire button it fires for split second and goes off. Then I plugged it into my PC via micro usb and it says warranty service. I tried all my different battery's and it seems to do it on all of them, all of which are fine. Also noticed that the chip seems unusually hot so I took battery out and I am not going to put one back in it. I don't trust it now. What do you suggest I do? Am I out of luck? Do I just have to buy a new chip. I have had it for several months now.

I really liked this better than any of the pre built mods and I love how the battery can be pulled off. But I would be using a external lipo charger that works off of the power off the battery not the balance charger as they cannot have much amperage going through the battery balancer. Lipo chargers need that only for battery info really. Also I want to see what it looks like inside the battery compartment. Such as what kinda battery and if I can put something better in it. Also would love to see them make the switch less ugly. Honestly the switch having those strange cuts makes it bad enough I won't get it. I guess I could pull it off and file it down to make it look like regular switch. I just don't understand why they made the switch look so bad... That is the one thing that killed this mod for me.

I wonder why it wasn't possible to do a 2amp charger onboard the dna200 since it was built around lipo's and there are enough usb chargers out there that can do 2amps. There I am sure is a solid reason why they didn't do this.