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SS316L Help


Lance

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IDK if I'll be a lot of help here because I do TC fairly simple. I either use a Kayfun V5 or Kanger STM both of which are very stable in TC. I use Temco SS316L 26 gauge 3mm ID 6 wraps .45ohms. I tried several profiles for SS316L Jacquiths, Stock, using correct TCR which is .00088 but the best one for me is the SS316L Elite from Steam Engine. That particular coil uses around 10w to maintain 410F so I set my watts to 25w no preheat, resistance unlocked. I use that profile on all my DNA's and when running Device Monitor the DNA75's are nearly perfect and the DNA200's are perfect as close to a straight line as you can get for temp. I never had much luck with prebuilt heads when I tried the which was a while ago so never used them again. For me this is as good as TC could be. I love it.

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b1ame said:

retird

Device is LostVape Therion DNA133 (based on DNA200)

I tried not to lock ohms - the same result.

Where can I get profiles provided by Evolv?

I'll post a screenshot a bit later, thank you!



You can get the materials from Evolv EScribe:  (you may already have them in the available material list)

Open EScribe with no device connected.
Click on EvolvDNA200. (under Edit New Settings)
Go to Materials.
Click on the desired material from  the Available List.
Select the "Export Material" Icon (below the Available Materials). Save to computer.

With device connected to EScribe, then use the Import Material Icon below Available Materials to import the saved material(s).  Add the Available Material to the Materials on Device and then build your profile in the General Tab as usual.

Untitled.png 


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retird 

I already have SS316L in repository.. Even if the device is disconnected.

materials.jpg 

This is Mod Settings (manufacturer's).

(Not actually sure about battery type etc, because the mod uses 2 li-ion 18650 batteries (that's why they call it DNA133), but there is no option to choose li-ion type)

escribe1.jpg 

This is SS316L profile:

escribe2.jpg 

 

 

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THX for the screenshots.... I see nothing that jumps out to me except the coils you are using should be good at between 55 and 65 watts at between 450 and 530 degrees F.  You might raise the preheat up to 100 watts and see if that helps. The coils I use are different specs than yours thus I can vape at lower wattage and temp but they are Aspire coils.  I assume you have good wicking of the juice (not too thick).
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It shows 115-130F at first time you click fire for a moment when mod and atty is "cold" at "room temperature", I guess it's cooler in my room :)

But anyway, the vapor is just too cool :cry: In VW mode at 45W it's just OK, but i want to use TC :(

Maybe the problem is exactly with these coils, don't know

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I'm sorting through similar issues. Spaced coils helped but I can't achieve a warm vape like my innokin coolfire 100 or Eleaf istick tc100. Running ss316l 26 ga. @37 ohms 480 degrees in a Merlin with a csv pulled from Steam engine. Doesn't seem to matter what I dial up in wattage, punch, pre heat. The highest I set wattage was 60 and don't think I need to go higher. Tried 2 single coil Merlins and a dual Boreas. Have a vt133. I'll give it another day before it goes to the bin.

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b1ame said:

It shows 115-130F at first time you click fire for a moment when mod and atty is "cold" at "room temperature", I guess it's cooler in my room :)

But anyway, the vapor is just too cool :cry: In VW mode at 45W it's just OK, but i want to use TC :(

Maybe the problem is exactly with these coils, don't know

I have actually used SS316L claptons with therion 133 for some time now, with different attys (griffin 25, limitless xl, tfv8) and couple different profiles for SS. Common problem seems to be that mod calibrates resistance too low for some reason, result is that I get too cold vape on TC, only solution so far ive noticed is to preheat coils a little, say 0.5sec on VW mode, then remove atty, make mod understand there is no atomizer anymore, attach it and setup it as new coil. After this locking ohms to 0.02ish higher than originally seems to fix the issue. Vape is now within temp range I wish it to be and stay there. When doing claptons, failing to connect only core is certain way to make this matter worse, eg. Mod wont stay in ohmlock anymore. I have no idea why this happens but I hope this helps someone
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mui said:

I have actually used SS316L claptons with therion 133 for some time now, with different attys (griffin 25, limitless xl, tfv8) and couple different profiles for SS. Common problem seems to be that mod calibrates resistance too low for some reason, result is that I get too cold vape on TC, only solution so far ive noticed is to preheat coils a little, say 0.5sec on VW mode, then remove atty, make mod understand there is no atomizer anymore, attach it and setup it as new coil. After this locking ohms to 0.02ish higher than originally seems to fix the issue. Vape is now within temp range I wish it to be and stay there. When doing claptons, failing to connect only core is certain way to make this matter worse, eg. Mod wont stay in ohmlock anymore. I have no idea why this happens but I hope this helps someone



Exactly the way i have to do it on the DNA, But to be honest i haven't used my DNA in over 6 months because of this reason it has become a paper weight.
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Lance said:



Exactly the way i have to do it on the DNA, But to be honest i haven't used my DNA in over 6 months because of this reason it has become a paper weight.

I believe this could be solved in firmware simply adding 0.02ohms to cold resistance if wire is SS316L. Or then again fixing the actual issue would be fine possibility too.
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mui said:

I believe this could be solved in firmware simply adding 0.02ohms to cold resistance if wire is SS316L. Or then again fixing the actual issue would be fine possibility too.


That would break 8 of my mods, ss res reads spot on (2 DNA 75s, 5 DNA200 and a DNA 250) when I don't lock the res, adding 0.02 would cause all my atties to vape too hot.  Having to lock the res to get it to work is a sure sign there is an issue with the connections, coil build or a mismatched material.  Fair enough do that if it is the only way you can get it to work, but in general they read and refine the resistance extremely accurately and locking res is bad advice.
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VapingBad said:


That would break 8 of my mods, ss res reads spot on (2 DNA 75s, 5 DNA200 and a DNA 250) when I don't lock the res, adding 0.02 would cause all my atties to vape too hot.  Having to lock the res to get it to work is a sure sign there is an issue with the connections, coil build or a mismatched material.  Fair enough do that if it is the only way you can get it to work, but in general they read and refine the resistance extremely accurately and locking res is bad advice.

Yes, just adding resistance would not be great idea, but having option to do so would be welcome. I havent had actual connection issues as coils are stable, tho 0.02 too low always, and it is not atty issue as it follows in similar fashion no matter what atty is. This happens on single one wire coils also. So i dont think it is build related either. Material difference could explain something? Ive been only using geek vapes ss316l Could this be somehow OEM lost vapes firmware related issue? / Some specific version that is affected?
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Mine is a Hcigar dna 200 so its not a Lost Vapes issue quite a few people have or have had the same problem.

I also did a SS316L clapton build in a Boreas and Steam Crave Supreme and also Ijoy Tornado nano they all go funky on the DNA but on the Ijoy LUX + Joyetech + Fuchai + Istick 200 they work fine in temp mode.

I also sent the DNA back thinking is there a fault but nope no fault found.

It works great as a power only device.

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Now that I fiddled with escribe more, I noticed in atomizer analyzer that it says room temperature is +10celcius more from what it actually is. Also the value seems static, no matter whether I try to cool the device or not.

Is this to be expected, or might it cause TC to fail?

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mui said:

Now that I fiddled with escribe more, I noticed in atomizer analyzer that it says room temperature is +10celcius more from what it actually is. Also the value seems static, no matter whether I try to cool the device or not.

Is this to be expected, or might it cause TC to fail?

@mui have you ran "Case Analyzer" on your mod? if not i suggest you run this function. this feature will calibrate your mod to read ambient/room temp better. it will never be dead on accurate but close. 
be sure your battery is a quarter to half empty before running. 
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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Good morning, @Jentz9517 and @Moutainvaper nope he's long gone, sadly enough. I learned a lot from him.
 
I see the  original filenames were changed, which actually followed this format "DJaquith UD-SS 316L V3.25.csv"
There is/was even a V5 &7. So in all 5 versions.

So ask yourselves 2 questions 
Why do they say UD in the filename. Think maybe that was the specific brand he tested at the time?
Why at least 5 versions, and wouldn't V7 (the last be the best/most accurate)

Think about that for a minute and before you go spreading the love. Maybe even ask Steam-engine to change their curve for the good of the world.
 

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