SS316L Help

[jj6404]

So you're saying David that if I twist SS with Kanthal or better yet, make a SS core Kanthal outer clapton, I may get better TC results than using the SS alone??? If this is the case then I can't wait. The titanium/kanthal clapton I made is performing and tasting wonderfully now btw.

[Jaquith]

jj6404 said:

So you're saying David that if I twist SS with Kanthal or better yet, make a SS core Kanthal outer clapton, I may get better TC results than using the SS alone??? If this is the case then I can't wait. The titanium/kanthal clapton I made is performing and tasting wonderfully now btw.

I haven't tried, yet, a SS316L / Kanthal Clapton, but I've done a Ni200 and Titanium. Until I got the 'core' SS316L TC right it didn't make sense to potentially waste a Clapton (time). I'll start off with a simple Twisted...easy and I'll get the idea.

Pfft I had no brains I grabbed two Clapton 6" segments (from different runs; meant for two separate single coil Atty's .. oopsy) than my 18" consistent wire; they were from different runs. However, sometimes you can learn from other's errors. For TC to work on each coil balanced Clapton's must have the same Kanthal 'density' in addition to the coiling itself and if they're off then the temp can be off 40-50 F (or more) per coil. 

This is what NOT to do; I'm using it and it tastes good so..:
 

Here's a the CSV files for the Titan Wire (Titanium Grade 1) http://www.filedropper.com/titanwirescsvfiles

Note on Titanium I prefer a Punch 3-5 and the Preheat Power around 150% of the set Power, and that or more on a Clapton. Otherwise, the first vape takes 1-2 seconds to fully ramp up. 

[Jentz9517]

I should have went with the 6ml version steamcrave Im filling the nano every 25-30 minutes haha. Thanks Again David

[Jaquith]

Yours looks great and the way it should be. I would recommend your 5.5 over my 6.5 / 2.5 mm ID that I had to shoehorn in. Question, what is your (looks like 34 gauge) outer wire? I'm running mine around 90W with 150W Preheat / 5 / 1 second at 550-570 F. Oh yeah lol I emptied a (6 ml) tank faster than I care to admit. ;-) Nano's are okay IMHO for single coil or otherwise if they have super easy filling and most don't. I got a Nano kit, $7, for my Billow V2 and as easy as it is to bottom fill it gets old fast.

[Jentz9517]

Actually it's that 26g Ti and 32 The 24 was supposed to come today but? Hoping Tomorrow - I am running exactly that but 545F - I am new to temp control but very impressed with your work and help - Can't Thank you enough! Oh and I'm almost done with the VapeMiser interview- good stuff

[Jentz9517]

Jentz9517 said:

Actually it's that 26g Ti and 32 The 24 was supposed to come today but? Hoping Tomorrow - I am running exactly that but 545F - I am new to temp control but very impressed with your work and help - Can't Thank you enough! Oh and I'm almost done with the VapeMiser interview- good stuff

oh that's 32 platinum "laugh" no just a-1

[PLANETGETLOW]

Powerman said:

[QUOTE=jj6404][QUOTE=Powerman]So ya, I had a SX Mini, and the pulse modulation didn't seem to do good with SS. Now I have 2 200s and I use Crown SS coils. Yes I know the issues... Anyway, I made a couple curves. For soft and hard. New and old coils. I doubled the points in my curve, but memory is very limited. I had to delete a couple... It seemed to help. Punch doesn't seem to make a difference. One is soft, one hard. But I have not turned it off.

How well are your Crown CSVs working for you? I couldn't get one that worked for me on my DNA200 but surprisingly on my new Evic VTC Mini, the stock SS profile they program in works beautifully...sometimes. First time I screwed it on, worked great. Second time I screwed my Crown on, cut prematurely and had weak, thin vapes. Third time, works great. Idk.

As for David's SS files, I think I've settled on the V4 and V3 for my attys. I still have preheat on but have the punch at 3, time at 0.75, and wattage at 20 watts above my vaping wattage (I vape around 55-65 watts and have preheat wattage at 80).[/QUOTE] I updated my crown thread. I don't want to derail this one with previous built crown talk. But to answer your question, I use 304 TCR from steam engine and add points in the middle of each of their points. Most folks use 105 if they can input a TCR. That's what I used on the SX Mini. The Crown coils can be a little temperamental due to the nickel legs. [/QUOTE] Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use it

[Jaquith]

PLANETGETLOW said:

Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use it

Here's the ensemble of all the UD SS316L Profiles - http://www.filedropper.com/udss316ltcprofiles

As the Version goes up, so do the temperatures; I generally use V3 or V3.5 myself.

[PLANETGETLOW]

Thanks, much appreciated

[nomad2000]

Jaquith said:

[QUOTE=PLANETGETLOW]Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use it

Here's the ensemble of all the UD SS316L Profiles - http://www.filedropper.com/udss316ltcprofiles

As the Version goes up, so do the temperatures; I generally use V3 or V3.5 myself.[/QUOTE]



thanks!  very usesful,     after test I use your V3.5 CSV, low preheat setting, perfect vape by UD SS316L  ,,,,,

[Johan]

Mr. Jaquith, as I have a good amount of Sweet Spot Ti (.4mm) on the way, was disappointed to read of your bad experience with their .csv. Have you tweaked their curve or created one of your own? This material and .csv was recommended by a fellow who goes by the moniker of PBusardo (a newbie I think lol), and now I'm wondering if he did a dry burn test or is just happy with the practical application (ie: using it). Also I would like to thank you for the SS .csv's, using ver. 3 & 4 with good success, and for your general willingness to share your findings. Perhaps you might consider giving Mr. Busardo some competition on the Youtube circuit ;-)

[Jaquith]

Johan said:

Mr. Jaquith, as I have a good amount of Sweet Spot Ti (.4mm) on the way, was disappointed to read of your bad experience with their .csv. Have you tweaked their curve or created one of your own? This material and .csv was recommended by a fellow who goes by the moniker of PBusardo (a newbie I think lol), and now I'm wondering if he did a dry burn test or is just happy with the practical application (ie: using it). Also I would like to thank you for the SS .csv's, using ver. 3 & 4 with good success, and for your general willingness to share your findings. Perhaps you might consider giving Mr. Busardo some competition on the Youtube circuit ;-)

I told Phil a while back that he needs to revamp all of his Titanium wire tests; Sweet Spot is a Ti-Fe alloy it's not Grade 1 Ti wire. Most of the Mods offering Titanium are regulated for 'pure' Titanium Grade 1 wire and while I don't have concerns about TiFe alloys, I do however feel Sweet Spot needs to make CLEAR what they're selling only works correctly with DNA 200 and or TCR based Mods. The owner of Sweet Spot and I had a long email .. I suggested that he sell his wire but also sell Grade 1 Titanium and make it perfectly clear to the public which is which.

For now I've had extremely good luck with Titan Wires and specifically I love their 24 Gauge (~0.5mm; actual 25 gauge) wire. Pulse it with 10W single or 20W dual to a dark orange to clean, burn off gunk, followed by rinsing under a faucet with a toothbrush .. NO Ti02 production.

Here are the CSV files I use on both the 0.4mm and 0.5mm wires; my preference seems to be my V5.2 http://www.filedropper.com/sweetspottiwire in addition I included Sweet Spot 0.5 V2 CSV. I do NOT recommend Sweet Spot's 0.4mm CSV file.

Just bear in mind, one of the trade offs that comes with adding Fe (Iron) is you get hot legs much, much worst than with Grade 1 .. so keep the legs short or use full wraps with 2-perpendicular leads.

Hot Legs from Sweet Spot:

 

Recommended coiling in 1/2 wrap Atty's:

[Johan]

Thanks for the reply and csv. I agree that Sweet Spot should be more specific about their wire. Stating that their wire will form no iron oxide is contradictory at best if they are producing a Ti/Iron alloy. Why they would see fit to post a csv for the .4mm wire that doesn't work is quite confusing and certainly not beneficial toward establishing credibility for themselves and their products.

[PLANETGETLOW]

Ive been using .5mm TI for a few months now with no issues. Ive posted various builds and results. Simple dual parallel builds work out the best. One thing i noticed is that with TI wire, once you lock in the initial resistance and vape for a while, it will eventually require you to relock it at a higher resistance. The cotton will be soaked but will read dry coil, until a highef resistance is locked in

[PLANETGETLOW]

Jaquith said:

[QUOTE=PLANETGETLOW]Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use it

Here's the ensemble of all the UD SS316L Profiles - http://www.filedropper.com/udss316ltcprofiles

As the Version goes up, so do the temperatures; I generally use V3 or V3.5 myself.[/QUOTE]what build works best with this profile

[Jaquith]

Both my 26 and 24 gauge work though my preference is 24 gauge, I prefer 3 mm coils whenever possible but nothing less than 2.5 mm and at least a 6.5 wrap coil or coils with minimal leads and always spaced coils.

[PLANETGETLOW]

Thanks for the quick response. Much appreciated

[PLANETGETLOW]

Im assuming you pulse this material similar to how you do titanium. What kind of ohms do 6-8 wraps on a dual parallel provide

[Jaquith]

You can pulse at a low wattage to clean and initially remove hot spots. I don't use parallel builds much. Most of my builds are limited to 120W and on average 30W to 75W. I'll build a quad once in a blue moon, twisted 30-26 gauge, Clapton's but most are 24 gauge single and dual. I can vape a Kayfun and grab a Velocity Clapton the next vape. That said, a 3 mm ID, 7.5 wrap, parallel, dual, 24 gauge of SS316L should have an approximate resistance of 0.08-0.09 Ohm's and require 170W-180W to power.

[shroomalistic]

Wow great stuff here Jaquith,  im currently using your 3.5 profile running my goliath v1 with triple twisted 28awg ud 316l wire dual coil wrapped around a 3/32 drill bit.  comes out to .173 ohms and running at 400f with no preheat.  So amazing.  best vape from a tank ever.  great stuff you got here and thanks so much for all the info.

[PLANETGETLOW]

shroomalistic said:

Wow great stuff here Jaquith,  im currently using your 3.5 profile running my goliath v1 with triple twisted 28awg ud 316l wire dual coil wrapped around a 3/32 drill bit.  comes out to .173 ohms and running at 400f with no preheat.  So amazing.  best vape from a tank ever.  great stuff you got here and thanks so much for all the info.

can you post a pic of that

[shroomalistic]

not the prettiest looking coils but it works great.  barely fits in the goliath  

[PLANETGETLOW]

In one post you say to preheat to eliminate hot spots, another post you say to ALWAYS space coils. I just did a 8 wrap dual parallel build with 24g SS that came out to be .14ohms Running 450 temp, and 50 watts So far so good on that 3.5 profile

[PLANETGETLOW]

Scratch that last post, temp and watts jumping all over.... Gonna try a spaced coil

[Phone Guy]

I've been searching for a SS csv, as I've tried the steam engine one which doesn't seem to work (or the wire doesn't work?).  I bought a spool of 316L 28g on ebay, and its HUGE like 2500' so I'd like to get it working somehow... if not, no big deal but such a waste of wire.