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Let's see your 75's!


dwcraig1

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VapingBad said:

I suppose I am the "moron" who kept insisting not to lock res, misquote, locking res stops DNAs working as designed, will not be as accurate as not locking and should not be done by default.
75_res_lock.png 
Personally I think you have a build, connection or mismatched wire profile issue.

Please stop posting extensively about other devices, this forum is for people to discuss DNAs there are plenty of places on the internet to compare products.  I am not saying never mention other devices, but it is too likely to start arguments and attract negative comment about those devices and this forum is not here to criticise the rest of the market.

Thats what i thought when i first got device, two days into using it i realized locking was a must the no locking is probably a kanthal coil thing. You have to lock it. Sure gona sell that junk anyways, ordered a red triade dna250. Back to topic as far as ive seen be it single strand guage or clapton ss. The resistance needs locking at room temp. Ir you wont have a consistent vape specially with the weather. I was wrong at first with the no locking crap, i never got a dna200 and just had 75 for some 3-4+ weeks(used it heavyly like 80 cycles on cell so far). watch daniel tutorial tho Edit: its anoying when joyetech deletes the post every time on fb page, sorry for venting here. Meh this is as accurate as my reader but gives me to two exta decimals... ohm meter is useless now... if only the device could wind coils and make claptons, wouldn't need rest of items! I actually like how it works with the cells, drops voltage to provide the wattage. It pretty much does with a full battery 30a cdc on vtc5, mooch tested it and was specifically commenting that vtc5 only does 30a cdc at 3.6 v or under. Perfect for this one. Btw that's my shitty Sdna75 case. Still working on getting a parallel shell for the chip. Although case is sturdy so idk

14790877492471825955471.jpg

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VapingBad said:

As usual I want a small and tough mod with tool less battery changing. I used the same 3" x 1.5" alu box section I have used with DNA 30 and DNA 40s since this board is 5 mm shorter than the 200.  I brazed the alu together and filled the front of the board mount holes with it instead of using epoxy.

[20160420_125313_Copy]

There is no room to use any off the shelf battery connectors so I mad some from a Provari V3 spring and some circuit board, I bridged the circuit board the -ve spring is soldered to to the Evolv 510 connector.  I had to make a spacer for 510 from a thick ss washer to get clearance on the inside, not the prettiest, but I just can't get the box section in the required size.  I tapped a thread in the box to hold the 510, again there is just no room for a nut in there.
[20160502_224807_Copy]

+ve is a thin bit of Cu on some more circuit board.
[20160502_223329_Copy]

I also soldered the board mounts I made from Cu tube to the board to improve cooling, grounding and make fitting easier.
[20160428_024222_Copy]

I made the buttons from shelf pins and all the wiring is 14 AWG silicone insulated.

[20160428_024027_Copy]

Finished dimensions are 82 mm x 38 mm x 22 mm including the 510, the main box is 75 mm high.
[20160428_032624_Copy]

[20160428_024010_Copy]

TBH it was a little bit of a rush job and the 510 is about 0.5 mm out, it still took days of labour with the basic tools I have.

This one is sick, get a logo lazer engraved and custum paint, could look even sicker than anything else.
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[quote=VapingBad]Please stop posting extensively about other devices, this forum is for people to discuss DNAs there are plenty of places on the internet to compare products.  I am not saying never mention other devices, but it is too likely to start arguments and attract negative comment about those devices and this forum is not here to criticise the rest of the market. [/quote]
I was going to post bad comments about other devices, but now you made me feel bad.

[quote=]Thats what i thought when i first got device, two days into using it i realized locking was a must the no locking is probably a kanthal coil thing. You have to lock it. Sure gona sell that junk anyways, ordered a red triade dna250. 
Back to topic as far as ive seen be it single strand guage or clapton ss. The resistance needs locking at room temp. Ir you wont have a consistent vape specially with the weather. I was wrong at first with the no locking crap, i never got a dna200 and just had 75 for some 3-4+ weeks(used it heavyly like 80 cycles on cell so far). watch daniel tutorial tho 

Edit: its anoying when joyetech deletes the post every time on fb page, sorry for venting here. Meh this is as accurate as my reader but gives me to two exta decimals... ohm meter is useless now... if only the device could wind coils and make claptons, wouldn't need rest of items! 
I actually like how it works with the cells, drops voltage to provide the wattage. It pretty much does with a full battery 30a cdc on vtc5, mooch tested it and was specifically commenting that vtc5 only does 30a cdc at 3.6 v or under. Perfect for this one. 

Btw that's my shitty Sdna75 case. Still working on getting a parallel shell for the chip. Although case is sturdy so idk[/quote]I don't see where you're going with this. As far as Joyetech deleting your posts go, I hope you can appreciate the difference in attitude between the companies and have a hard look before you start praising other companies on specific forums. You were already asked something once, please keep on topic.

Let me try my best to help you. I've owned a DNA board for over an year now (just recently upgraded to DNA 75, my first one was DNA 40) and I can assure you what you're experiencing is not normal. It could be caused by a couple of things:

1. Loose connection between the atomizer and 510
2. Bad soldering and wiring from the 510 to the board
3. Not properly configured device/board 
4. Bad/not intended for TC Atomizer design (for example current passing through a string)

TC is an extremely sensitive technology in regards to ohms, and even .002 ohm difference can make a big difference in the temperature of the vape, especially for wires with lower coefficient of resistance (like stainless steel). Now this might seem like a bit too hard have all of those different components perfectly aligned, but in reality it's not that hard. If your box mod and atomizer are properly designed, built, connected and configured you shouldn't experience a change and drifting in ohms. That's why Evolv recommends not locking ohms -- the option is there if you still need it, but if you need to use it one of the above listed factors is not right and you're not getting the experience you should have. You should rather focus on addressing the issue, then using locked ohms, since if you resolve it your experience will always be better.

You can test your atomizer connection using Escribe's Atomizer Analyzer. You should also checked if the case analyzer has been ran and properly configured for your mod, internal resistance, battery settings and wire profiles (especially coefficient of resistances). The SMY DNA 75 is one of the cheapest devices on the market with a DNA 75 board which usually comes at the cost of quality control, it's safe to assume that one of the above is an issue.

Devices with faulty profiles, wrong values for the case and generally wrongfully configured from manufactures is not something new. You can find plenty of threads around the forum of people compaining the profile their device came with doesn't work properly (NOTE: those are not Evolv's default profiles, but the OEM's modified profiles -- SMY in this particular case). Phil Busardo has extremely comprehensive reviews on the board and you can generally rely on him for the most extensive reviews on devices. 

If you have any more questions, please sent me a PM or start another thread here.

I do apologize for the off-topic. 

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engmia said:


I was going to post bad comments about other devices, but now you made me feel bad.

I don't see where you're going with this. As far as Joyetech deleting your posts go, I hope you can appreciate the difference in attitude between the companies and have a hard look before you start praising other companies on specific forums. You were already asked something once, please keep on topic.

Let me try my best to help you. I've owned a DNA board for over an year now (just recently upgraded to DNA 75, my first one was DNA 40) and I can assure you what you're experiencing is not normal. It could be caused by a couple of things:

1. Loose connection between the atomizer and 510
2. Bad soldering and wiring from the 510 to the board
3. Not properly configured device/board 
4. Bad/not intended for TC Atomizer design (for example current passing through a string)

TC is an extremely sensitive technology in regards to ohms, and even .002 ohm difference can make a big difference in the temperature of the vape, especially for wires with lower coefficient of resistance (like stainless steel). Now this might seem like a bit too hard have all of those different components perfectly aligned, but in reality it's not that hard. If your box mod and atomizer are properly designed, built, connected and configured you shouldn't experience a change and drifting in ohms. That's why Evolv recommends not locking ohms -- the option is there if you still need it, but if you need to use it one of the above listed factors is not right and you're not getting the experience you should have. You should rather focus on addressing the issue, then using locked ohms, since if you resolve it your experience will always be better.

You can test your atomizer connection using Escribe's Atomizer Analyzer. You should also checked if the case analyzer has been ran and properly configured for your mod, internal resistance, battery settings and wire profiles (especially coefficient of resistances). The SMY DNA 75 is one of the cheapest devices on the market with a DNA 75 board which usually comes at the cost of quality control, it's safe to assume that one of the above is an issue.

Devices with faulty profiles, wrong values for the case and generally wrongfully configured from manufactures is not something new. You can find plenty of threads around the forum of people compaining the profile their device came with doesn't work properly (NOTE: those are not Evolv's default profiles, but the OEM's modified profiles -- SMY in this particular case). Phil Busardo has extremely comprehensive reviews on the board and you can generally rely on him for the most extensive reviews on devices. 

If you have any more questions, please sent me a PM or start another thread here.

I do apologize for the off-topic. 

I think you're right, tried multiple atomizers, so it must be a cheap 510 (just like everything ive experienced with my sdna75 is that they cut corners everyware so bad 510 is possibly the case, at least i got a triade dna250 coming, no dna250 forum though), im new to evolv chips and the community, ill leave other companies aside. Other than the fact that a manufacturer told me they cloned dna75 chip and call it dna 2.0 bad clone attempt (seller kept on insisting i buy a sample..nty) but still, not proffesional and i think that should be made known(i like how the chip verification works for dna tbh, even gives you board production date) I cant fix the spikr so it has to ve a cheap smy component, just like the bad casing...dunno why daniel praised it on tutorial its actually a bad 510.... or where else could they had messed up? Geekvape vt cigar nano and vapethink where all in same sdna range, having those wire presets got me into buying a bad mod i suppose...
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@Vaperkarloz Please google how to do Proper print screen, so we can see the details. 1 from Device monitor, the other showing the profile settings.

I among others have that same SDNA75 working fine with SS, and are willing and trying to assist you. Be brief, stingy with your words, and stay on topic.

Cheers.

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The 510 on the SMY SDNA75 I consider one of the better ones of the mass produced mods. It is my only DNA mod with a 0.002 ohm mod resistance. The others are 0.004 - 0.005 ohms
There is one problem that could easily develop with it and that is they soldered the ground output wire to the nut that holds the 510 body into the case. If the nut becomes loose problems arise.
It's certainly easy enough to check and correct.

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dwcraig1 said:

The 510 on the SMY SDNA75 I consider one of the better ones of the mass produced mods. It is my only DNA mod with a 0.002 ohm mod resistance. The others are 0.004 - 0.005 ohms
There is one problem that could easily develop with it and that is they soldered the ground output wire to the nut that holds the 510 body into the case. If the nut becomes loose problems arise.
It's certainly easy enough to check and correct.

Then is it the experimental firmware apk and not recommended one causing this? Hwvent tried ungrading the mod apk
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  • 1 month later...

Long time lurker, first post!

Here is what happens when a machinist decides to build a mod!  This is my first build. 

First, I didn't like the 3D printed board/screen holder.  It was very warped and there was no way to properly mount it.  So I made a billet one.
20161228_171315.jpg  20161228_171235.jpg  Then I went to work designing the box as small as I could.
20161229_180819.jpg  Here is the first mock up.
20170102_173937.jpg  Then machined for the 510.  I turned down a Varitube V2. 20170103_155933.jpgI didn't like any of the battery sleds that I found.  None of them had a proper way to mount other than glue.  I was set on everything being bolted together.  I machined Delrin battery insulators that would work with standard battery clips that are readily available. 20170107_142533.jpg  20170107_142646.jpg  Got it all wired up!
20170107_162650.jpg  20170107_162712.jpg  Magnetic battery cover.
20170108_131128.jpg
The box in machine out of 6061 billet aluminum with a light brushed finish.  Then I machined the buttons out of 7075.  I left them with a machined finish to they would stand out more.
20170107_163640.jpg

20170108_131128.jpg

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Thanks guys!

I started getting irritated not being able to find a made in USA mod.  They guys down at the vape shop sold me a lava box and told me it was the only one made in the US.  After I got home and started using it, i read on the box that it was assembled in china!  That is when I had enough and started designing....

Being a US manufacturer myself, I have a hard time buying anything made in china.....

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It was a couple weeks from the time I decided to build it to the time I was making vapor.  More time designing than machining.  

Some of it was waiting on parts and materials to get here, and of course waiting for a machine to open up for a few hours to make chips without slowing down production.  We are pretty swamped right now.  It is not often that a machine shop owner can actually machine his own parts for fun.  Sounds strange but it is just the way it is.....

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  • 4 weeks later...

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