KTMRider

I have no love for Hana, especially after this last experience with them but you guys seem to think that the 510 is somehow inferior to a FDV or VT. I love VT 510's and have them in all the mods I build and keep a few spares around. They all work great with no issues in resistance at all. My only experience with the FDV is the v4 and that just sucks. The spring is weak and really easy to fck up soldering. An installer can also weaken the spring further by applying too much heat while soldering the 510 pin. So it's installed wrong or badly which is causing a faulty 510 connection. Wouldn't you agree? What would you call it then? Have you checked the ground connection from the board to the case? I was just trying to help, going on what you posted but if you're gonna act like a candyass about it, send it back to Hana or Evolv and let them fix it. Or did you just want to post your problem just to hear yourself btch about it?

So your 510 has a faulty connection to the case? Is that not faulty?

Your 510 might just be faulty or bad soldering. My 510 works great and is very accurate.

16mm hole.

I think a better solution would be to figure out what's wrong with your 510 and make it work as intended rather than mutilate it until the mod is scrap metal. If you don't know how and it doesn't work, send it back to Hana and have them fix it or replace it. You will not be able to get a VT 510 or FDV 510 to work in the enclosure easily and reliably. From what I know of the 510 Hana is using, there's a snap ring on the bottom that holds the spring loaded 510 pin and insulator of some sort. The top landing pad and threads are a separate piece that's threaded into the mod and is 16mm. I doubt they used a thread locker as that would most likely result in a bad ground. If you're intent on taking it out, try heating the enclosure to expand the aluminum around the 16mm threads before unscrewing. Again, the Hana 510 is way better than a FDV 510. I doubt it will only last a couple of months.

That was in response to direct wiring a DNA200 to use a car's electrical system as a power supply (battery), not charging a mod with a 3s lipo internal battery from a USB charger in a car.

Glad to hear it's working well for you but firmware doesn't fix pinched display cables or blown fuses.

No issue with that battery other than it's HUGE!!! The DNA200 requires a battery with 11.1v nominal, a balance connector and can handle 23a continuous discharge.

It's a common 800mah 3s lipo battery for rc helicopters. The size should be roughly 70 x 24 x 18mm.

Could it be a bad cell in the pack?

I set mine to 10.55Wh. It does have a 1a charger. If you're only getting .44a, try a different cable or different USB power supply.

Mine had all default settings. I had to set the Wh.

Samsung, Blackberry and LG brand cables are power and data. They support full power (2a+) unlike cheaper cables that only max out at 500ma or 1a. You can find them fairly cheap on Amazon. Cables to go also sell inexpensive cables that work well. I bought a 3pk of Anker cables that are good too (from Amazon).

I just ordered one this morning.

Noalox?

The glue comes off with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. I cut a small piece of foam and taped one end of a 2" piece of electrical tape on it, then wrapped it backwards with the sticky side out so it stays put. The pressure of the foam sandwiched between the board and screen holds it in place and the tape makes sure it doesn't move. The enclosure has a slot milled out for the screen so the display lines up perfectly.

You are too kind. The hardest part was opening the case. Literally. I had to get my Snap On screwdriver to get the case screws out. I was tempted but I didn't want to take one of the reference mods from someone that might actually need a swap. The v200 is pretty close to the reference mod and mine's a pretty blue

I would ASSume that they would use black wire for ground and red wire for 1, 2, 3 (power).

I did end up replacing my screen and Evolv is replacing my extra screen, not Hana Modz. I posted pics here: /topic/68265-topic/?do=findComment&comment=913960

Isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip will take that glue off easily w/o damaging anything. I used a piece of closed cell foam with electrical tape reversed and sandwiched it between the screen and board.

I thought about setting the brightness to 0 but I like to see what's going on. It's set to 30 now and it only loses 2%. If I unplug and replug, it bounces back to 100% in a few mins so it's not that bad. Last night I fully charged it and left it to see what it would be in the morning and it was still at 100% so there's no loss after the 1hr refinement period and it goes to deep sleep. Either way, I can wait a week or two for an update. It's not really that big of an issue, just something I thought I'd mention.

Is your 510 broken? I think the Hana 510 is WAY better than a FDV 510.

I was thinking the exact same thing as I was reading these posts. Start with a simple single spaced coil.

The ground should be black as far as the connector is concerned and it looks like that's how the battery is wired. Not sure why they used only one red wire though.

Sounds like you have a short or hot leg in one or both of your coils. Are they contact coils or spaced? Spaced seems to be much more reliable for Ni200.