KTMRider

You should be fine with any 800mah and up 3s lipo. My Hana v200 has a 950mah 3s lipo and it lasts a full day of heavy vaping. I built a mod with a 1300mah and it lasts more than 1.5 days.

I folded mine gently while installing in both my mods (BRD200 and Hana v200). I think the problem comes when the ribbon is pinched between the fire button and you're constantly pinching it when vaping and eventually it fails. It took 2+ days on my BRD200 and less than 24 hrs on my v200. Here's how I pre-bent the ribbon when I installed a new display in the v200.

I just sent them an e-mail that I fixed the screen myself but I need a replacement screen for a new board with no screen now.

Yes, I changed mine to 10.55 wh. It helps the battery meter more accurately display percentage.

I was into RC cars back in 1991 or so. I was using NiCd's and building my own packs (testing and matching cells). I still have my chargers that are useless. All this research into lipo packs got me interested in rc helicopters. I recently bought 5 starters (Syma 109g, Estes ProtoX quad, V911 pro, Blade MSR and Blade 120 SR) along with a lipo charger (iMax B6) and a lipo tester. My BRD200 has XT30 connectors so I can charge it with my lipo charger. I have extra batteries too. My Hana v200 gets charged via usb but while I was fixing the display, I charged it with the iMax B6 since it was out of the case.

Check the 4 resistors to the right of the USB port. The far right resistor on my board was knocked off a bit and caused cell 1 to read very low (~1v).

I had really high hopes for the DNA200 once it was announced to us mortals and it has thus far exceeded my expectations. Yeah, I had 2 pinched display cables in 2 mods but once they were fixed, these things are really amazing. I still use my VS DNA40 and rDNA40 when I'm out but that will soon change after a few more days of testing my Hana v200 at home. I have been using my BRD200 and v200 almost exclusively at home (rDNA40 once in a while). I also have 2 other DNA40's (home built in a Cloupor box and Hana v4) and a Boxer with a SX350j that aren't being used much. The Boxer is a nice box but the chip kinda sucks, especially when next to a DNA200 and I'm not a high wattage vaper. I really don't understand how people think it's as good or better than a DNA chip (40 or 200). I think I'm going to get rid of the Boxer and Hana v4 to make room for more DNA200 mods .

Mac users should be used to that by now... <duck>

Yes, the DNA40 large screen will work on the DNA200. I emailed them on Friday so I got a response this morning but I think they're getting slammed (or will be very soon) with dead screens. I would be very (very) surprised if 1 in 10 didn't have a pinched ribbon after looking at the inside of the mod.

My Hana Modz v200 didn't have the correct setting for the battery when I received it. There's a calculator in Escribe to help you get the right wh value (10.55 for 950mah 3S). I have a 3d print by Blueridgedog with a 1300mah 3s and the Hana v200 with a 950mah 3s. I have 2 config files for each mod. The only difference is the wh value.

The chip would have to be close to the 510 or your resistance would include a long wire run.

What mod do you have? What battery? There's a setting in Escribe to set the Wh of the battery under the Mod tab. That should give you a more accurate battery meter.

I posted in your other thread but thought I'd share with this thread. It was a pinched ribbon cable. I replaced the screen and all's well again.

I wouldn't worry about strain on the board. They're designed to be plugged/unplugged from a circuit board. RC guys have been doing it for years and they don't have issues. They swap batteries way more than we would.

Damn!!! You couldn't post this an hour earlier??? Can I get a beta for detailed pics of my Hana v200 failure? Ok, how about an extra screen? I was going to post this in the other thread. I got impatient and took my Hana apart. I wasn't too keen on the idea of opening up a new $200 mod to fix it but it's better than having to go w/o it for a week while shipping it back and forth. The screws that hold the case together was really tight. Like loctite tight. I had to go to my garage and break out my Snap On screwdrivers. They were that tight. It was definitely the ribbon cable pinched in the fire button. I pre-bent the ribbon cable just like on my 3d printed board. I used some closed cell foam with electrical tape reverse wrapped so it stays in place (hope it doesn't overheat the board). It looks like they used silicone glue or a different type of glue in their glue guns to hold the screen in place. It's a shame because the case is milled out to place the screen perfectly. Even with pre-bending the ribbon cable, it took a few tries to get the screen seated and the board in place w/o pinching the cable. You can tell by the way the button sounds when you press it. It's not as crisp. She's alive!!!! I buttoned everything back up and it's working great again. I didn't change the connectors yet. It's really tight but I think I can make XT30's fit in there.

Ok, my first statement wasn't completely true. My built box had a pinched display ribbon and the dispaly was cutting out when I touched the fire button, not just firing. I replaced the display, pre-bending the ribbon cable so it collapses on itself and away from the fire button. It was hardwired because my XT30 connectors were delayed and I was impatient. I got my connectors Friday and installed them so now it's perfect and haven't had any issues. I was vaping on my Hana yesterday even with the screen blank. I might try to replace the screen later today.

Graph Options> Set time scale Try 60 seconds.

Yes. I had it open for a few mins and it never stopped increasing by 1.

Just tried that and it's showing a disconnect every second (more like every .6 sec).

*cough* Sculpteo *cough*[/QUOTE] checking their site. How's their service and quality?[/QUOTE] I ordered a case from them. They have an option for economy service for 30% off. I chose that and it still shipped within a week. They're based in France but it was overnighted to me and I chose cheap shipping too since I wasn't in a rush to get it. I ordered the case first and even with the economy printing and shipping, it was delivered before my other parts that were ordered from the US. As far as quality, I can't say about Shapeways since I've never ordered from them but I read Sculpteo is more accurate and better finished. The only downside is that their website isn't as easy to navigate and searching for others' designs is slow.

Not quite. DNA's have a "limp mode" where it will still fire at low battery conditions. Unless the battery is completely dead, you should still be able to vape (not chain vape).

*cough* Sculpteo *cough*

Anker's IQ ports are great. I have an Anker 5 port usb charging hub (Powerbot PB5000) that gives up to 2.1a to each port (up to 8a/40w total). You should be fine with that power bank.

You probably want the case first and find a battery that fits it. You should take into consideration what kind of battery life you want and choose a case based on that though. 2200mah 3S lipo is a huge battery. I'm getting 1.5 days of heavy vaping off a 1300mah 3S (KF v4, 20w, 60w preheat, .11? NI200, 440°F).

Just flashed it. No change. Still vapes fine (per Device Monitor) but no display.