KTMRider

I would double check with a multimeter but it looks like red is ground and the 3 black is balance so you'd have to flip the connector.

It should be close enough and it should balance out to 4.2 when fully charged. I'd keep an eye on it for a few charges though.

That's what I was thinking. After a full charge, the screen stays on and chips away at the battery charge. Not too much (.18 wh) but my limited OCD wants to start the day off with 100% . Having the screen dim at a set interval after reaching 100% would be nice.

Yea, my Hana is still good with no issues. Knock on wood. Can you tell me why the same atty with a nickel build is showing different ohms level on my hana and opus? Hana reads it at .07 while the Opus reads is at .08 but both are using the same chip. I don't get it. [/QUOTE] Mod build variances (510 specifically). As long as it isn't more than .01? you should be fine. I've had builds that were .115? show up as .11? or .12? on various DNA40 and DNA200 mods.

Are you hitting TP immediately when firing? If so, it might be a short in your coil. Are you making spaced? That's the most reliable I've found. Make sure no coil is touching.

The 510 is probably the only thing you won't be able to replace easily. They use a propritetary 510 and the hole is 16-18mm (big!). VT and FDv uses a 10mm hole (9.something tapped). I do like the v200 a LOT. It's a great mod and the battery life is perfect for me.

Is it set to Maximize Puffs or Maximize Recharges? It should be set to Max Puffs for full charging.

From what I've read, they fixed the issues this weekend so yours should be good. After replacing my screen, it's been working great. I was vaping it even with the screen blank and no other issues. If you've been making unregulated mods, it's not much different. You use a soldering iron, right? For your tank with SS coils, turn TP off and it shouldn't have any issues. I think the v200 is the perfect size for me. The V4 was too skinny and the original Hana box was just a bit too fat (no, I'm not Goldilocks ). It's the same size around as the rDNA40 but just a bit taller (10mm?) and the rDNA40 is my favorite mod.

I was down to 18% last night. I put it on a usb charger (Anker PB5000) and it was charging at .96a. This morning it was at 98%, 1037wh.

Open a ticket. They're pretty quick. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

VT200 (by Hcigar) and VTBox200 are 2 different mods.

Escribe downloads the config in the mod you connect. I usually make changes and save to a file named <mod>.ecig (ie. HanaV200.ecig, BRD200.ecig). It's not that confusing.

I didn't check the voltage but the current was a .96-.98a. My guess is that it charges to 100% and falls from there since the screen is constantly on all night while plugged in. The battery is set to "Maximize Puffs" in Escribe. I'll try it again tonight.

I wasn't going to download this but after reading the release notes and seeing the changes to keep last window size and options in Device Monitor, I downloaded and installed it. Works great on my Win7 pc. It's great to see changes implemented so quickly. James - Thanks for all your hard work!!!

To clarify, I made the changes when I first got it last week (Thursday?) since it looked like no updates were applied to the board and all the settings were as if it was a brand new board. I've been vaping it and the screen issue came up. While I was replacing the screen I put the battery on a lipo charger (Imax B6). I buttoned everything up and vaped until it was about 20% and charged it overnight. I have Wh set on my charging screen and it showed up properly. I'll give it a few more cycles to see how it goes. I might just set the charging screen to 0% to see if that helps. I LOVE how I can customize this board and test different things. Thanks for giving us (the vaping community) such an awesome board!

That's what I thought. The only change I made was the wh was set at default and I changed it to 10.55.

I left my v200 on a charger all night last night with the charge screen at 30%. After it fully charged, the screen stayed on all night and brought the charge to 94%. Any way to shut the board down after charging to 100%? Maybe a user defined delay?

So far, no. They respond to 1 email per day. And usually, their response is "try rebooting your computer" crap and not much help.

Yeah, not ideal but I've been vaping on mine for 3 days (1 day with a dead screen) and no issues with the connector. I only vape at 20w and my preheat is set to 60w. I definitely wouldn't recommend this mod to anyone vaping over 60w unless they change the connector (either Hana or DIY).

Who is "everybody"? I bought one of these battery checkers to test multi-cell lipos: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121680867706?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it.

I can see that point. Most of my work with lipos have been where you could get at them for a quick disconnect. Not so here, but the charge and discharge rates are trivial (compared to RC use for the same packs) so I am not that concerned. In the event of a catastrophic issue, a software derived off might not be all that accessible.[/QUOTE] There shouldn't be any catastrophic failures like in the RC world since we don't overcharge or discharge at high continuous amps. If something bad does happens, the mod is going out the window.

I noticed the wire on the 510 wasn't soldered very well. The cover on my wire was burnt (not silicone) and thick stranded wire so very stiff. I haven't had an issue with the resistance so I left it alone. I'll probably open it up again to change the power connectors later on.

Sounds like a resistor for the balance port was knocked off. I had a similar issue with my first mod. I have a lipo checker and charger that both showed the battery pack was good but cell 1 on Escribe was at 1.9v. A closer inspection of the board showed one resistor was knocked off slightly (not completely off) and that was enough to show 1 bad cell. I had a 2nd board so I swapped it out and it worked perfectly. I would try to work with Evolv. I'm still trying to get a replacement screen from Hana and they seem to respond only once a day and it's usually "have you checked to see if your MOD is not in Stealth mode?" or "would you like to send it in for our technicians to look at it?" when I told them I already fixed it and just need a replacement screen. I'm not a fan of Hana so far.

Modcrate is out of stock. I need 2 myself.