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I don't know as there is really a need to lock power on the 75c, just don't leave the power selected. ie. After you fire once, press the up button then power can't be accidentally changed. I built my 75c 2 almost 3 months ago, and I've never needed to lock it. I used to carry on my front pocket, but I've put a clip on it and now carry on the outside of my front pocket. As a mechanic in a small town, I work in all kinds of weird positions like under dashes or crawling on big diesel engines or rolling around underneath vehicles and never had it change power on me. Even when had it with on so narly atv trail rides it the trees and never had it change on me.

I have cold ohm probs on all of my tanks that have ss316l. Some with factory coils, and some with coils I build. I've done builds from .15 all the way to 2ohms and have trouble with all compared to my dna250's and my dna60

What are you calling low resistance? I'm having issues with my 2 late in v5's one clone one original. Original has .655 316l spaced 28g. Clone has .766 316l spaced 28g. Neither give problems on dna250 or dna60

Google silo-950. Looks the same except I think the customs Have the evolv logo, and a serial number

None of my 250s have asked new coil, but I've never had it not vape correctly when making a tank switch

Nice mod, but pretty sure the 1st post explicitly asked that people not post made produced mods

I would put my money on the dna vs the xstar

75c ss316.ecig

So, after 3hrs of using the 75c on sp24 with my ammit, I have the temp down to 420f to get a similar vape to my 250.

I checked the tcr on my 75c and 250, Both have the same. Both are .0032 mod resistance. 75c shows room temp at 82f, 250 shows 81f. Put ammit with a .81ohm coil on the 250, shows .811ohms. Put it on 75c and fluctuates from .809 to .811ohms. Set the 75c to 55w preheat to 365f, and 30w power with 405f. Took a vape and weak as heck, took a few more pulls and no change. Put it on the 250 punch at 7 power 30w, temp 405f, took several pulls and perfection. Put back on 75c and ended up with temp set to 520f to get the same vape. Btw the fluctuating ohms must be just with my melo3

Yeah, don't always get exactly what I mean on the phone

@James, the resistance is set on all but my 60. My daily drivers are both in the erm style modcrate cases and mod resistance is set at .032 on both as they both gave a .04 reading. On the 250 and 75c my triton coil reads .316 cold at 74f in watts but in tc the 75c shows .537. If I resample, it stays the same. If I switch back to watts profile from 316, and resample it goes back to .493-.537 w/o touching the tank. Headed to work, be back around noon central

Just loaded up sp24, room temp is pretty spot on, so is resistance, but I still have to set the temp over 500f on the 75c to get the same vape I get at 410-430 on either of my 250s or my 60. Tried 3 different tanks, jobs engine, govad, and a melo3 with triton 316 coil. Both rtas had are also 316 coils

Just file a ticket with evolve, I sent 1 to them and sent a vaporflask 167 to vaporshark on the same day. Got the one from evolv back in a week from the day I sent it. Vapor shark took over a month

Any dna 250 powered by 2 cells, be it 2x18650, 2x26550, 2x20700, or 2s lipo will max out at 167w. With a 3cell setup, it will make the full 250w. The reason for this is that the dna250 chip uses a buck only circuit, not a buck-boost circuit which is why it has a 97% efficiency vs 85% of most other brands.

A dna250 with dual batts pushes 167w, triple makes the full 250. I would use the ijoy 2700 or the sanyo 20700a, as they are the most widely available. The ijoy for sure fits in the new nitecore i4. Also, I wouldn't be the least bit afraid to charge in mod with a dna chip. Building your own mod, I would try and leave room for a 21700. I didn't find any for sale yet, but they are coming at even better capacity and amp rating than the 20700's.

And if you have it already, try emailing him and see if you can get it that way.

If you can come up with the sled(s) and an enclosure that you like, then it can work. It would be huge, but no reason you couldn't I personally would build one to use 20700 or 21700 as they offer higher amp ratings and mah. Check out battery mooch, he tests pretty much all batteries that get used by vapers and let's us know true ratings. Plus with the Ijoy captain, 20700s are showing up in more b&ms

Hook it to EScribe and get a screen shot of device monitor. You'll need to have the battery box checked.

Great video, applies to your finder also. Controls or "Gestures" start around the 15min mark. Last 2 videos are about EScribe. There have been a ton of interface changes, but the functionality is the same, and device monitor operates the same except for a change up in the menus to to apease the Mac folks. Good luck, and there are no stupid questions. The dna 40, 60, 75, 200 and 250 are a steap learning curve coming from a 75c, but pretty simple once you use it a bit

The volt and amp readings on-screen are live l, so they will only show while firing. You're kicking out of tc sounds like a hot spot on a coil, or a connection issue between the board and the coil. Do you have EScribe? A device monitor screenshot would help a bunch. Make sure that power, set temp, live temp, cold ohms, and live ohms are all checked for your screen shot.

Billet box apparently didn't think it was necessary. There are several yt vids showing how to add usb to it though.

Shows how to change button, but also shows the stock evolv fire switch is still on the board, that would let you do some troubleshooting even w/o escribe

I agree with @retird. Also, I watched some teardown vids and it appears that bb uses off-board buttons so one may be bad. When in device monitor you should be able to simulate button presses, which would allow you to make escribe fire the mod.

The controls are the same. Start at 15:20