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XenonRam

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About XenonRam

  • Birthday 01/06/1987

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  • Location
    Tampa, Florida, USA
  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    Reuleaux

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  1. I think that some of the reviewers got them from Evolv with DNA 200's installed, when the DNA 200 first came out. (As a promotional item to show the DNA 200 off.)
  2. I'm not sure what your question is. It doesn't matter what mod you have. You can set up ss presets for any mod that works with eScribe. It's very simple to set up presets. You can use the steam engine .csv file creator too. Steam-Engine.org
  3. Sounds like a good idea, but the small [big] screen DNA devices that's only 0.91", (and it also with its very coarse pixel density, but I'm sure a color variant would have a much finer pixel density) is hard to find. I've looked for them before and all the 0.91" oLED screens with a 8 contact ribbon cable are either white, green, or blue monochromatic oLED's. That's why the new DNA 75c ones are twice as big, and have a much finer pixel density than 128x32 pixels.
  4. The pics for the "DNA Custom" mods aren't showing up.
  5. Are you using the supplied USB cable? (The one that came with in the box with the Reuleaux.) Is the 1A supply you're using your computer USB port, or a wall wart? If you're not using the supplied cable, you should be because a lot aren't capable of the higher current. If you are using the supplied cable, try another cable you have around the house; the thickest one you have. If that doesn't work, pick up a high current USB cable off eBay. (Make sure it is a charge & data cable; or a charge only cable since you aren't having a problem with data transfer. Some are data only.) Also try a 2.0-2.5A wall wart. Use the device monitor in the eScribe program to help you monitor and diagnose the problem. Hope that helps.
  6. Evolv will eventually get it back from volcano. Once volcano rounds up 20-50 returns with bad boards, whatever the reason for then not working, they'll send them back to Evolv. Sending it back to volcano is the best bet for a quick turnaround. (Which I see you've already done.) Then you're guaranteed a new device rather than having Evolv take it apart, then volcano not wanting to accept the return since it had been disassembled. That way Evolv will still receive it back for evaluation.
  7. Both lithium-ion batteries (The cylindrical 18650 style batteries) and lithium polymer batteries (More correctly lithium-ion polymer batteries.) are all technically lithium-ion batteries. The lithium-ion batteries and lithium polymer batteries are all lithium-ion batteries, and all use the same electrochemistry. So setting the eScribe for lithium polymer is fine. I do agree they should have both setting options so it doesn't confuse people. A real lithium polymer battery is a misnomer because, although real lithium polymer batteries do exist, the ones we use and think of as lithium polymer batteries are not true lithium polymer batteries; they're just lithium-ion batteries in a flexible pouch or prismatic form. The "real" lithium polymer batteries use a polymer electrode instead of a liquid electrolyte like most lithium-ion and lithium polymer batteries we use have. True lithium polymer battery tech is still in its infancy and aren't really available commercially. All the ones we use today, whether it be a 3s pouch in a DNA, a prismatic cell in a cell phone, or an 18650 in a mod, are all lithium-ion batteries and all use a liquid electrolyte. Disclaimer: Even though we just finished studying electrochemistry in chem 2, I'm no expert on lithium battery chemistry. (And to tell you the truth, we didn't go into much detail on e-chem because our professor said if we decide to go into a job in battery chemistry technology, and need to learn e-chem, we can take it in grad school as part of our PhD studies.)
  8. I think that most people looking for a DNA 200 mod will know better. If they don't realize that it isn't the dna 200 version, they don't belong with a DNA 200 in the first place, and it would probably work out better if they ended up with this mod on accident; it's easier to use than a DNA 200 for people that can't tell the difference between the two. Read the comments on the bottom of this product. Read the comment where tne person states, "This is a really popular mod. I think they're confused like you said. http://tinyurl.com/ojzu6uq
  9. [/QUOTE] Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that[/QUOTE] Thanks, but that's crazy that you can't adjust the brightness without messing something up? By the sound of your prompt concise answer that this is a known, common, problem. Why has this not been resolved!?! I'll let you know if it helps as soon as I try it out. Thanks again, XenonRam
  10. I GET THAT problem when I use my USB 2.0 port. When I tried it in my USB 3.0 port, it started working perfectly. I wasn't getting it as bad as you, but it would happen about 50% of the time. Also upgrading new settings to the mod took about 2-2.5 minutes with the USB 2.0, but using the USB now takes only about 12 seconds, and I don't get anymore errors. Try using a USB 3.0 port. If you don't have one, try a different USB 2.0 port; or if you're using a desktop, go buy a $10 USB 3.0 card and pop it in. Also make sure you're using the thick cable that came with the mod. Others won't work. Also you have to remember, you're dealing with Chinese made $hi+ (It wouldn't let me post with the actual word I wanted to use. LOL. I thought that vaping was for adults only, so why is this forum censored? I hope it doesn't turn out like ECF.) on both accounts; the cable AND the mod. So maybe source another high current capable USB cable, and make sure it is a charge AND data cable because a lot of high current cables are charge only. My problem is that I have the charge screen settings to show battery percentage, pack voltage, and USB current. When I plug it in (either a USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or a 2.4A wall wart), the battery bar shows the lightning bolt indicating charging, but the display doesn't switch to the charge screen data settings; it continues to show the resistance, the total mAh capacity of the batteries, and temperature. (My non-charging screen settings.) It does show the lightning bolt in the battery bar, and it is indeed actually charging, but the screen doesn't change; no matter how long I wait. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, can you recommend a fix?
  11. I don't believe the split points have anything to do with the increments the battery bar drops as the cells are depleted. It is just an easier way of setting data points. The actual discharge graphs are curved, not straight lines linking the data points. So if you were to input the data points to make it into a curve, you would need hundreds of data points. The "split" function is to add another data point. Different people end up with different numbers of data points when they do the physical tests with different battery analyzers. So it allows people to input as many, or as few, data points they want to. For example, if you only had 5 data points, one at (100%,4.2v) the second at (66%,4.0v), third at (33%,3.6v), fourth at (0%,3.1v), it wouldn't be like the bar showed no movement until you reached 4.0v then instantly only be showing 66% battery left. It would drop at a constant amount as the battery was depleted no matter how many data points you have or how many times you "split" them. (The amount of time it takes for the bar to drop one increment would vary.)
  12. A lot of the good CC/CV (Constant Current/Constant Voltage) chargers drop down to a trickle charge for the last 5-10%. The first ~90% of the charge cycle, up to ~4.1v is at a constant current with the voltage rising as the voltage of the battery rises. This is to prevent the battery voltage becoming greater than the charge voltage to prevent backflow EMF (electromotive force). The charge voltage continues to rise until voltage it gets to the "float point" (at 4.2v) then it switches to constant voltage mode, and maintains that voltage with a trickle charge; the saturation cycle. (Around 0.1C) This is to prevent the cell being charged past 4.2v. There is A LOT more to this but, if it were charged at a constant current, it has a risk of going past 4.2 volts. Also if it is charged with a constant current up to 4.2v, it may only have about 80-90% of its potential capacity since it didn't go through a saturation charge. Even though a battery reads 4.2v, it could only be charged to about 80% of its potential capacity. So, all in all, it is normal for the current to drop to ~200 mA.
  13. Vaping Bad; There is a ground between the board and chassis. A pic of it is shown in my last post. All of the current carrying wires are within spec. The balancing wires are only carrying ~25 mA, so they don't need to be thick at all. Email Evolv, and ask them about the wires, and whatever questions you have about it. I think that would be better than getting someone's "expert opinion." Some people think that if they read a few Wiki articles and do some research they're experts in the subject. Get the confirmation straight from the actual experts. XenonRam
  14. I don't believe it's silicone, what I did was probe at it with a very small (sharp) precision screw driver and decided it was pretty hard insulation. Also it seemed quite stiff. To determine the gauge, well that was done visually comparing it to a wire in hand which I then measured (real accurate I know). I was more interested in satisfying myself as to what was used. BTW if chassis ground was used, I didn't see it, that would make the wire gauge on the B+ less critical as only half the length of wire is used.[/QUOTE] dwcraig1; In that pic you posted on page 4, you can see the chassis ground. It is the screw going through the board into the chassis directly under the UP button. I believe there is a 9th screw holding the blue sled in place. (There are the two T6 Torx screws, one on the top and one on the bottom, the 6 visible Phillips screws behind the batteries.) I believe that there is a 9th screw that is covered with a white foam plug. It is about 3/16" down to the 4 o'clock position of the upper right Phillips screw behind the battery. I think that this is a "tamper proof" screw, but I'm not sure I haven't attempted to take it apart because I have no interest in doing so, because Evolv certified it to be within spec. XenonRam
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