VapingBad

0.05 ohm sounds very high, the mod I made using a VariTube stainless steel with brass pin 510 only measure 0.004 ohm.

There are some mount/guides available IIRC Mamu does one have a look on shapeways http://www.shapeways.com/search?q=mamu there will be ones available elsewhere to.

Evolv battery cut-off default is 3.09 V

I would have a indent or guides for 3 side of the screen on the inside of the box to align it and hold it with high temp (only > 200 F) double sided tape or a block of silicon between the back of the screen and the board, some people tape or glue. Lovely boxes

Are you saying each cell is showing 5.7 V or the pack, I don't think the batteries could ever get to that voltage in each cell without self destructing. All 3 cells should be the same voltage, between 3 & 4.2 V, the pack between 9 & 12.6 V.

"religious war" bit OTT. Both ways ultimatly adjust power, I keep the temp set for flavour, but am usually at the temp limit because my ADV is a genny, but on a dripper with more room and airflow I still keep at the same temp and adjust the watts & airflow. And I always have the preheat punch at max normally for 1.5 seconds, 200 W on cotton, but anywhere between 80 W and 150 W on gennnies as until the mesh oxidises more with age you are at risk of shorts and on some builds you can burn through a leg at 200 W. This has pre heat 100W, punch 11, time limit 1.5 s, time scale 10 sec. ETA the pre-heat is even more important/effective running below the temp limit than running at temp. No pre-heat needed running at temp, pre-heat turned off just using the temp limit to control everything which is fine, just addressing the previous posters point on pre-heat.

I just noticed that sometimes when disconnecting an atty the res on the screen drops to 0, which fits with this behaviour.

I am not trying to preach to anyone or tell people my way is the only valid way, just answering a question here. In general one with more contact area between the wick and coil, normally that means a few more wraps, but you could have change wire size. If you use the SteameEngine coil calc the equates to keeping the heat flux low. I mean vaping at the temp limit by maxing the coil at the temp, lots of people vape like that and that's fine and you have to if you want fast heat up and the mod doesn't have pre-heat. Imaging your coil has 6 wraps and you like it hitting the temp limit quickly at say 40 W if you look in device manager it will settle at a lower wattage, say 30 W. You should find a larger coil say 8-9 wraps vape as well or better at 30 W and only hits the temp limit now and again, but vaping like that the wattage will work as the vapour adjustment as it does in non temp limiting mode. Many people vape the other way, there is no right or wrong and as James said not all atomisers allow you to do it and you just end up at the temp limit. I choose the temp by the liquid for flavour and not the build, which is why I try and stick to operating this way, can't always do it though YMMV. Temp Limiting was developed to prevent the liquid being subjected to temperature over a set threshold and not to stay at the temperature. It is the coil temp that is limited not the vapour and the liquid has a fixed vaporisation temp. I believe that the improved flavour is not from staying at that temp, but rather from never exceeding it. Once the liquid on the wick is heated it can trigger chemical reactions that we see by a change in colour and these would change the flavour to. So as long as I am getting enough vapour and stop the liquid getting too hot I'm happy.

If you are maxing your coil at the temp then wattage doesn't adjust much, but if you make a coil that spreads the heat more you will not be hitting the limit as much and you will find the wattage is still the adjustment for vapour production.

I would guess that the disconnection is picked up by the refinement process and as that is not always active it would explain why it is not every time. It could be that they have done it so you don't have to force a change by firing. At 0.09 ohm cold res where I am vaping I/100th of an ohm is about 30 F.

I think that is by design, only now you don't have to fire it to trigger the message.

I get that after changing atty, which I like, but not without an atty change.

Install this version https://www.dimensionengineering.com/software/SetupES_2015-08-17.exe update your device then reinstall the latest version and update. The different versions are in the Early Firmware thread /topic/66731-topic/ ETA I think I got that wrong and maybe you just need to do a manual fw update from the tools menu, when you do you will be shown a dialogue window to choose the file and I assume that 20-08-15 will be there try that then let it update normally. Pleas say if that fixed it.

I don't know, but the battery Wh is the important one, mod res is only really needed at low resistances and the case thermals are the least important.

I have always seen the welcome screen when uploading settings, maybe you have longer display times on the welcome screens and notice it more.

I would go to the early fw thread and download the version of that date, update them both then update to the latest or direct download https://www.dimensionengineering.com/software/SetupES_2015-08-17.exe ETA I think I got that wrong and maybe you just need to do a manual fw update from the tools menu, when you do you will be shown a dialogue window to choose the file and I assume that 20-08-15 will be there try that then let it update normally.

3.09 V is the standard/default for LiPos for the board Robby and should be just the ticket.

Do they have the same fw version, and the VS usually have the full data in their profile - mod res, case thermals and battery curve so would expect that to be slightly more accurate if anything. I wouldn't judge using SS as the TCR curve can vary between wires, Ni200 would be the best way to compare them.

Thanks should go to Evolv they took care that failed updates don't brick the DNA

Yes, don't worry, go to the tools menu and do a manual fw update.

Could be the pre-release firmware that manufactures & resellers should have updated before release. Hard cut off is actually 2.85 V, it is not the first time I got that wrong /topic/67884-topic/?do=findComment&comment=911120

There is a hard cut off of 3 V so that is the lowest that the board will respect.

Looks like the screen shortage has hit, they are also oos of DNA40 Lg Scr in single & 10 packs.

I am amazed there have been no requests for temperature increment I often have to use Escribe, both my 200 are set to 382 F ATM.

The Efusion will have the same charge time as any other DNA200 with the same size battery, maybe some people have been charging at 0.5 A and making a fuss about it. DNA200s charge at 5 W per hour plus a little extra time for the last constant voltage stage of charging. So a 10 Wh device about 2:15, 15 Wh about 3:20 etc