VapingBad

If you have a DNA40 large screen about you could borrow that until they are available again.

This thread has all the info, not a tutorial but... /topic/66226-topic/

But I think it uses the balance tap connections and must be in LiPo or LiFePo configuration or it will not use these safety features just trusting that the 12 V power supply you told it you are using is capable. Screens are in short supply ATM, I don't know anywhere that has any.

Yea the battery management and charging needs the balance wires, they only pull 40 mA or less so you can use very thin wire if that helps. IIWY I would do or you don't have any over-discharge protection and I imagine that it is not limited to 133 W and I don't know if that would put it in a position to attempt to pull more current than your batteries or the fuse can handle if you try and use very high watts.

Here is the thread with the details /topic/66226-topic/

It should need 3 cells for power supply (12 V) and it is far safer to set it up as 2 or 3 cell. IIRC you need to run balance wiring -ve to balance 0, between the cells to b1, +ve to b2 & b3, but check first I am just writing the wiring instructions off the top of my head and may have it the wrong way round.

I am not from Evolv, but the 18650 will come under LiPo, I don't know the Max recharges voltage for LiFePos, here is the thread where the feature was requested /topic/66189-topic/ and LiFePos never came up.

Has the mod resistance on the mod tab been set to the wrong value, if it is set make a note of the value and then try it with the mod resistance set to zero. It's on Mod tab in Escribe.

It depends on the wattage you run the test at, at 40 W this with 4 parallel loops of 0.5 mm Kanthal was fine, I suspect it could handle a fair bit more. Just don't leave it unattended and if it is getting too hot stop.

2-3 days, last few parcels from the US to the UK took 7 days door to door for me, but they were not from Evolv. The charger sounds ideal.

Have you waited long enough, they don't display until it goes into idle, about 30 sec on mine.

Are you saying that it does not display while charging, the would be the charging screen brightness in Escribe. If the bar never get full you could reduce the Watt hours in Escribe by a percent or two, you can put the battery percentage, Wh or voltage on the screen as one of the custom fields to see how far below full it is, probably/helpfully only a tiny bit.

Because it is a step down regulator that was designed to use the voltage from 3 Li cell. min 9 V and has max input current of 23 A you would need at least 9 V for 200 W. There are no 18650s that can safely provide 200 W you would need 206 W from the batteries or 103 W from each and at 3.5 V that is 30 A, but an freshly charged 18650 would drop to to 3.5 V under load or below (a quick look showed a VTC5 dropping to 3.7 V at about 20 A) so they just don't have the continuous power for that kind of wattage in any mod for more than one or two puffs. These figures are for 97% efficiency of the DNA200 a step-up converter would need even more power from the battery.

Resistance will not affect the current flow from the battery and is not important in the context of this test as long as it allows you to run at the wattage you want.

The latest is 1.0.35.2 you can get it here /topic/66731-topic/

Or generate them by running battery analyser.

You don't "need" as csv for your batteries just the correct Watt hours, a csv is desirable and will make you battery bar more accurate, but not essential.

Cheer, it does work really well even if I do say so myself

If you use silicone insulated tin the wire before stripping, you just hold the iron on the end and feed in flux cored solder you can tell how far it got up the wire by it stiffening. Thee snip the end of and strip or pull back the insulation and it will go straight into the holes on the DNA40.

Not using Ti myself, but SteamEngine gives a good starting point, remember to set the wattage and see what is in the sub 200 heat flux area so you hav acoil that takes a little more heat.

I can get a Velocity to vape at 120 W without temp protection kicking in all the time at 400 F (I don't like it, just did it to see if I could), you need to spread the heat over the wick to use the power while not having to increase the temp limit. Pre-heat will get your big coils up to temp and there is no need to build like you would with Kanthal you have more flexibility in the bigger coil direction, but keeping the coils size/contact area small will reduce your options.

Probably a FlightPower LiPo FP25 3S 11.1V 1300 mAh 25-50C

IIRC the conformal coating is silicon based. I am putting a DNA40 in a clone Flask I for a lady that can kill a mod by looking at it let alone getting liquid on the board, she has lost faith with 2 guys she sent repairs and upgrades too. So I need a lot of extra protection, maybe I should use long wires all coming out as a bunch and put the board in a durex.

Saying temp protected is not a problem as such more an info message, if you are not getting enough vapour at your settings it back to first principles: more contact area between coil and wick, airflow and wicking. As long as you are at a temp that produces vapour those things are ways to produce more at that tempreture if your atty can support it.

Posted in Mod Resistance thread This has to be the cheapest and easiest if you have a decent soldering iron and an old carto: just solder the positive to the negative then sand through to the brass of the positive, plenty of flux flood the centre at first then run the solder around the centre sealing the gap. As accurate as the solid copper rod and more stable so easier to use, remember to set the mod res to zero before testing!