VapingBad

I would return it to Evolv, the PC would normally see the board without a battery connected.

Cheers, I believe it is the solvents that are the potential prob and although most off the shelf epoxies may be fine they rarely give you the info in poundland or HobbyKing.

TCR is unaffected by how many wires, provided it's the same material, yes? yes

My last post wasn't personal, I have used normal epoxy on DNA30s & 40s with no ill effects, but if Evolv say it's a no no then I would have to be a not very nice person to not clarify that when I saw it being advised. Got any UK links for that epoxy? I have some Sugru and some servicsol electronics silicon, but wouldn't mind some safe epoxy.

You should only use electronics grade epoxy, Sugru is a lot easier IMO. /topic/65815-topic/?do=findComment&comment=890976 /topic/68032-topic/

Why not add a small LEDs with current limiting resistors across each battery to light if it is inserted in reverse as well, it's late over here, I've had a few brews and I am just talking off the top of my head so may have missed something obvious.

You probably need a later release of Escribe, goto the Early Firmware thread.

In Escribe, Mod Tab

Sugru is a silicone putty with a long working time that works very well for securing the screen and other electronics, you only need high temp stuff if you are sticking the screen to the board.

scoppy One very important thing is you have to either take the centre pin out buy removing the circlip or disconnect the positive out when trying to turn the Evolv 510 or you will twist that wire and could rip the positive wire off the board.

You will have to get a 1/2"x20 (1/2" UNF) thread tap and a pin wrench, adjustable with 4 mm pins.

Most devices with Li batteries ship with about 40% charge to extend the shelf life so he could well have just ran the battery flat, again the board has lots of protection to stop damage from things like that, but get him to update the firmware and charge it before worrying about anything.

Yes, the threads were not tapped through, it was tight, but not fully screw in, the top was 3-4 mm higher than it should have been. Quite a lot of aluminium came off when I tapped it fully through.

You don't need to do anything for it to work with Kanthal or any other non temp sensing coils, it will look like it is in temp mode before you fire ti the first time, but it will detect that it has not changed resistance enough in the first second and not try to limit the temperature. It won't damage it either.

Look at the pic on page 1 you can see it sat proud, I got a plug tap for 4.50GBP from eBay and ran it through and now it sit flush. Yes it measured 0.004, I posted a pic on pg 3, and I didn't have to put as much pressure as with the VT and expect it is a frication lower res. I saw your black one, we are all jealous. I got the copper rod from eBay a while age for another project, I have some a bit thicker that I need to put in the drill and file down so the M70.5 die I just got from China for <2GBP can make a solid copper one.

I have not tried it and am running battery analyser ATM so cant right now, but got 0.004 with a copper rod, it was originally 0.003 higher than the VT when measured with the Velocity, but the 510 was not tapped through and a board mount screw was missing, once I fixed those it seems about the same. I will test it later and edit this post. ETA the ERM measured 0.004 with both the soldered carto and copper rod methods, I set the mod res to 0.0036 following John's advice and considering that 0.004 could be 0.0035 with rounding.

Probably because of better contact with the test piece, you don't get to min res until it is good and tight.

VariTube with 14 AWG, ground ring made from flattened 3/4" copper pipe.

This has to be the cheapest and easiest if you have a decent soldering iron and an old carto: just solder the positive to the negative then sand through to the brass of the positive, plenty of flux flood the centre at first then run the solder around the centre sealing the gap. As accurate as the solid copper rod and more stable so easier to use, remember to set the mod res to zero before testing!

Normally would the screen not light up even with a blown fuse ?[/QUOTE] It would light up only when the USB was connected with a blown fuse, assuming the screen cable has not got damaged or come loose.

I think you need to return it, if it was being seen by Escribe I would say check the fuse and a pinched screen cable, but those wouldn't stop Escribe seeing it. The heat can be caused by the charging current going going through the balance resistors next to the USB socket when the fues is blown so I guess that is part of your problem.

Evolv give the tool away free: Escribe, everything else a mod maker would have or be able to easily make. They can't force their customers to set up mods as they should, all they can do is ask them to.

From the DNA200 LiPo list maintained by Cotay Flightpower FPWP2133 1300mah; 25C 67 x 33 x 20

The atomiser needs to be at room temperature when first fired so the mod can get a base resistance, same for all temp limiting mod.

Firstly check the basics like the atty being at room temp and solid connections, also look at Atomiser Analyser to see the resistance is stable.