VapingBad

The 3 basic things to check are good connections, not touching coil wraps and having preheat + power high enough for the coil to raise 150 F in the first second.

I love high up horizontal builds in the Aromamizer, just using the top connections with 2 mm coil, there are no legs to get hot, rewicking is super super easy and flavour is superb, the wicks limit the airflow to a slowish lung inhale which is perfect for me. This is triple twisted 0.2 mm (32 AWG) Ni200, 0.4 mm Ti or NiFe like this works great to.

lock then hold down all 3 buttons for a few seconds[/QUOTE] Thanks for that info! You know if there is a place that lists the updated changes, button presses, etc...?[/QUOTE] You're welcome 1st post of this thread

lock then hold down all 3 buttons for a few seconds

So you use the same preaheat power, punch, time, for SS 316/316L as you do Ni 200 & Ti grade 1[/QUOTE] Pretty much, I get the odd build where I turn it down a little for flavour, all except gennies, but I have only done a few ss & Ti builds, I find NiFe30 is better than both but mainly use Ni200, I did check preheat's effect with all of them in Device Monitor and had no problems. I stay away from over big coils to get as instant heat up as possible so YMMV with massive coils, and normally vape between 30 to 40 W after the limit comes in, though have managed to occasional blast at over 100 W and keeping below the temp limit for parts of the vape.

I'm not understanding what u mean about "power double with ss wicks in gennies"[/QUOTE] Double the value I set for watts, so running the genny at 40 W I would typically start with 80 W preheat as you have to be more careful the high currents with dual Ni coils can cause arching to the steel wick, but as the wicks age I can go higher and often get to 3 times.[/QUOTE] What's a Genny?[/QUOTE] Stainless steel rope wicks with stainless steel mesh covering, this is 0.16 mm (34 AWG) Ni200 so with very high current if there is any short through the wick you will pop the coils before you see the problem. And with thicker wire the current can cause an electrical arch to the wick can burn a hole in it or weld to it. Fantastic vape, especially with ribbon Ni200, but the only situation I have found where high preheat can be a problem.

I'm not understanding what u mean about "power double with ss wicks in gennies"[/QUOTE] Double the value I set for watts, so running the genny at 40 W I would typically start with 80 W preheat as you have to be more careful the high currents with dual Ni coils can cause arching to the steel wick, but as the wicks age I can go higher and often get to 3 times.

Sorry donnie I don't have the profiles you want, but the battery discharge curve doesn't affect safety only the metre so no to worry.

Always have punch at 11, 1-2 second duration, power double with ss wicks in gennies and generally 200 W with cotton wicks, same for Ni, Ti, NiFe30 & SS316L.

That was just an update of EScribe, though I am surprised that it didn't have fw included, when you click update fw are you shown a folder named Firmware with a sub-folder named DNA 200, it''s normally in hr DNA 200 folder. If it is not there you will need to install 2015-09-30 EScribe 1.0.34 then reinstall your current version. https://www.dimensionengineering.com/software/UpdateES_2015-09-30.exe

Then why are all these DNA 200 lipo box mods being advertised as 50/55 amp continuous/pulse discharge?[/QUOTE] That the output current from the board not the input current which is 23 A max.

If you select Temperature then wattage is displayed when in Temperature-Dominant profiles.

0.3 mm regulates smoother, again I find that preheat works perfectly no matter how aggressively you set it.

It is in the latest beta update /topic/66731-topic/

Everything seems to work fine in my first 15 mins, loving the temp increment and material screen field.

Viruk StealthVape.co.uk do quality grade 1 Ti in the UK, I prefer their NiFe30 myself, choose rebuildable supplies shipping and look around the site there are a couple of freebies you can add to your order.

I think a VariTube would be a better bet than a FD in the available space, personally I prefer the VT.

It depends on your style of vaping, if you only touch the temp limit for a short time the watts will be more reinvent, but if you are vaping so it spends most of the time temp limiting then the watts you set will not make much difference, especially high watts as they will not be reached. Lowering the temp would most likely save most battery for most people, especially vaping the second way. Preheat punch will only make a tiny difference, I think more preheat watts and punch allow me to get my satisfaction from a shorter vape so probably save battery for me.

Opps you wanted more res BRD, I'm dyslexic sorry, the first one was over 0.5 ohm, but I just wanted to show the DNA 200 can regulate 26 AWG Stainless Steel.

Reduced the res (removed 2 wraps) upped the temp 40 F as this build is a bit lost in a Velocity

Got my wire from Stealth Vape and only have time for a quick test right now so I used the thickest 0.4 mm and it is regulating temperature, not as smoothly as higher TCR wires, but it is doing it especially protecting against high temp. (time base 10 seconds)

Steam Engine quotes the TCR as 0.000879 but the materials profile will be more accurate http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp just select the wire type, choose DNA200 in hte results section then click "Download TFR table as CSV". Then in EScribe chose custom wire type in a profile and load that file it worked well fro me with 0.29 mm ss317L.

It does seem so, though I wonder to what extent so I ordered 0.2, 0.3 & 0.4 mm of the same grade and batch from the same supplier, one I trust to check out the quality of the wire before they list it.

Stealth Vape just listed 316 so I have ordered 3 sizes to have a play with as I trust them to have the correct spec.