VapingBad

Similar with atties that have really poor connection paths, the board just can not get a stable resistance reading because in your case the 510 resistance is bouncing around, sucks but the board can only work with what it's got.

With the 75C and 250C you can add or subtract screens, but not the other DNAs. I am sure it will not affect battery life as they are stored in the chips memory and the only power drain I can think of would be fetching it from memory and I doubt that would be detectable as the chip is busy doing lots of things when you vape or even change screen.

BTW on the topic of this thread, thought I would share how awesome 400 W preheat is this is a screen shot of me vaping a pair of SS UD staggered fused claptons on a DNA 250C. Preheats at 400 W then gradually reduces to 57 W once the coils have got going. Virtually instant full vape and no after boil when you stop. If I were using VW or VV I would have to set the wattage at 60 W to not over cook the liquid, but then it would take an age to start producing vapour or set the power high enough to get vapour quickly enough and suffer over cooking and after boiling. This was the first puff, nothing unusually about it just plugged in and vaped on my normal settings. ETA material = stock SS316 wire profile, ph = 400 W, punch = 9

Yeah but USB C is just the connector spec nothing more, take devices like the Sony Xperia XZ it has USB C and none of that it is just USB 2 with a different plug, now if you had said lets have USB 3 then that would have meant more to me. I agree that the USB 3 power spec would be a very nice to have.

You would also need to short the cell 3 connections, in 2 cell versions this in normally a soldered link.

There is not right or wrong really it is what suits you, IMO tuning to flavour is the way to go.

The resistance shouldn't make a noticeable difference to the battery life as it's a variable wattage board, as long as you are withing the range the board supports, think watts in - watts out. It is the wattage that you need to keep an eye on and vaping at higher watts will cause you to hit the low power cut off earlier. A poor connection in the atty could also account for hitting the low cut off early. My 2 most used builds in DNAs are 0.05 ohm NI and 0.28 ohm SS316 and never noticed a difference in battery life as they are physically similar and run at the same power level.

Perfectly safe, if you have a main power plug disconnect the battery from the mod, but I have done this with the battery still soldered to the board.

The easiest way is to charge each cell separately, you can connect to each cell by using two adjacent pins on the balance connector, 1 mm solid core hook up wire like that used with bread boards is ideal for this. Here is a picture of some hook up wire soldered to disc magnets to in place, but you could just let the springs on the charger hold it in place, there are several layers of tape over the positive terminal of that old 18500 battery, you could use anything that fits in the charger and will not conduct, a piece of plastic or wood would be even better. ETA you can do this with the battery connected, but don't use the mod while doing it.

It looks like it will only regulate down to 1 W (0.97 W the green line on the video) and because there is no liquid or airflow that 1 W is taking it over temp, it would probably pass the cotton test with larger coils or airflow. This should not effect how it vapes.

Yes, when it is released themes will need a minor change, easy to do yourself, to enable the user to say this is the puff I want saved to replay for this coil.

Firm Ware, software that written on to chip as opposed to software that is loaded at runtime, but don't worry about that just download the update when it comes.

Yeah, you will see it here in the International Edition of FW when it's ready.

Cool, yeah the will be stepping 5 V up to 16.8 V, but as you say that will not be an issue for you.

They have 4S balance charger, a little under 2 A on USB, it sounds like you are using a far higher rate solution which of course is a reasonable opinion with these multi cell configs if you have a USB supply with the guts to power it, hats off to you and I would like that myself, but the 2 A isn't too sluggish with this size cell. ETA you may well need to think about cooling though, not that it would get dangerous as much as could cause ageing of your batteries by regularly getting them hot, they get warm at 2 A. ETA 2 for me working at a desk with a 2 A USB supply the stock charging is fantastic, no issue with one or two top up charges during the day and I golden. Some folks have criticised the lack of USB C connector, personally I manage to not break sockets and don't care about the plug owing a lot of good USB micro cables. But the USB 3 power spec could provide a lot of power and I would have liked to see that, but it is far from universal ATM.

Turnigy Bolt 1000 mAh, 4S, 15.2 V. Good battery life, where on an evening out in town my 250/200 Evolv mods would run flat during the train ride home past mid night these still have plenty. Not got a figure, but would be happy to go out without a power bank or spare mod, where as with the others I would have one in my bag on Friday.

I think "it will" rather than "it is", shouldn't be long but it can't be both instant and tested properly unless they delayed the 250C IMO.

It is a step down converter so not by much because it is limited to the lowest V level from 2 cell less the power to run the board and efficiency losses (board getting hot), you will have the 75C for that and the 250C for mega efficiency and range.

Not seen a spec sheet yet, but would expect around 6 V with 2 cell, I only have a Lipo 4 cell beta unit so not easy for me to test that.

So the 250C fw has just gone through internal and beta testing, they got that right and will (going by the djs video) port it to the 75C and that will no doubt also go through internal and beta testing before release.

Not just manufactures, beta testers etc

Yes

The 250 limits current to 1 A if there is a data connection on the USB, lowering current in the last phase of charging is when the charging changes from constant current to constant voltage mode and all lithium battery charges do this for safety and efficient charging. Charge current will also lower if the board temp is high, again for safety. Only 200s & 250s have a balance charging controller that the board can read the current from, the 75 & 75C have a simpler charger chip which does not provide that info, but the board can stop or start charging, the 60 can't do that as the charger is a separate board.

You can set it to max recharges so it only charges to 4.1 V

No assuming they are 25R, 30Q or VTCs they are fine, the battery type setting is lithium polymer is for the charging algorithm which is the same for those batteries