VapingBad

As Chunky said I don't think there is a commercially available battery holder that is fit for > 30 W e-cigs they are made for other applications. That only impacts on performance so nothing to worry about. It's funny lots of us think nothing of fabricating an enclosure but far fewer making battery contacts. You could solder a XT30 socket on the battery and a plug on the board & a charger/charger adepter.

Here is what I did, it could be better, but as I just worked it out as I was doing it using what was to hand. I used a 4 mm brass screw, some circuit board fibre glass, a spring, a copper contact from an old flash light and some epoxy. Could be better especially the spring, but a lot better than the standard contacts. The positive sits at the bottom and it is important to insulate any bits that you can accidental touch with the enclosure when fitting or removing it, I used epoxy for this.

I know recovery has a short time limit on it for safety so you may need to do it several times. Most Li chargers and charging chops will not charger batteries under 2.5 V in normal mod so all the recovery is trying to do is bring the cells up to 2.5 V so they can be charged normally. See if the voltages raise between attempts, if they don't and assuming that it is not something else I would imagine the battery is foo barred.

Not sure about the not below 1 V bit, definitely the longer your battery is flat the harder to will be to revive, Grime Green implies that his was at zero "completely dead in the EScribe software" 37:00 in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxP0FFnF2-8&feature=youtu.be&t=2221 Thanks back to you GG as I have not had to do it myself it is good to hear how it goes.

You are welcome, I'll leave it open as it is bound to come up again.

Yes, the curve is for a typical cylindrical high drain battery, but if you are using just one type of battery running the analyser may make it a little more accurate. The battery gauge is not as advanced as the 200 one, it basically converts voltage to percentage using the curve.

Just choose 18650 LiIon in EScribe. (I'm moving this thread the the DNA 75 board)

But it is not always a W symbol there, if you are in a temp dominant profile it will the the temperature unit F or C and that is useful to instantly tell which mode it is in.

As usual I want a small and tough mod with tool less battery changing. I used the same 3" x 1.5" alu box section I have used with DNA 30 and DNA 40s since this board is 5 mm shorter than the 200. I brazed the alu together and filled the front of the board mount holes with it instead of using epoxy. There is no room to use any off the shelf battery connectors so I mad some from a Provari V3 spring and some circuit board, I bridged the circuit board the -ve spring is soldered to to the Evolv 510 connector. I had to make a spacer for 510 from a thick ss washer to get clearance on the inside, not the prettiest, but I just can't get the box section in the required size. I tapped a thread in the box to hold the 510, again there is just no room for a nut in there. +ve is a thin bit of Cu on some more circuit board. I also soldered the board mounts I made from Cu tube to the board to improve cooling, grounding and make fitting easier. I made the buttons from shelf pins and all the wiring is 14 AWG silicone insulated. Finished dimensions are 82 mm x 38 mm x 22 mm including the 510, the main box is 75 mm high. TBH it was a little bit of a rush job and the 510 is about 0.5 mm out, it still took days of labour with the basic tools I have.

You may know this mstave, but just in case you don't the limit is the voltage under load so you battery will never stay that low unless you are vaping at 1 W. I fine the lowest 25Rs need changing is 3.2 V.

If you look at it in device monitor you will see it is just sagging to 2.5 V during the 75 W preheat for a tiny amount of time and the message just relates to that and not the whole puff. All that happens is it will give you a bit less on the preheat as the battery gets low, nothing to worry about it is just the limitations of the battery and running battery analyser will not change that. The cleanliness and quality of the battery connections also play a part in this.

I would just choose Lithium Ion 18650 in EScribe and after that if the battery gauge is too far out then run the analyser.

No, the choices are "LiPo" or "LiIon 18650" I think the voltage is just too low from LiFePos.

IMO it is better to keep it in the threads and available for all and you will get the same help/guess/comfort from me anyway. It could be the USB cable and unless they have another device that exchanges data with the Pc over a USB cable and have used that it is impossible to be definite, sorry.

You set a begin and end colour for a time period and these can be chained together. The default charge light starts black and changes to red over 2 seconds, then red changing to black in 1 second. So the glow grows twice as fast as it fades making a more interesting affect.

??? I said the fuse should protect the battery form a board fault.

It's not firing in the last pic, it's just showing the set power rising, power is showing as "?" on the lhs, ther is no power trace and the battery voltage is level. Also re battery safety the fuse should protect the battery from any board fault providing the battery is suitably rated.

That all correct the Shark DNA 200 does charge at 2 A from the USB, the 75 doesn't need an amp from the USB to provide an amp to the battery. I can see it is confusing in that the specified charge current applies to the UDB for DNA 200s and to the battery side on DNA 75, I assume it is so as I clock mine at around 0.8 A on a metre which is consistent with 1 A charging on the battery side.

Tools - Update firmware will give you a open file dialogue window look in the DNA 200 folder and choose the newest file up to and including feb 16 then just follow the prompts.

The Feb versions are fine, IIWY I would put the Feb fw on both devices and if you are still getting something strange and can't easily fine an answer here start a thread with more detail and a couple of device monitor screen shots.

Save your config in Escribe, update fw from the menu and choose the version before IIRC Feb 16, because it had extra settings it may require you setting defaults in that case open the config while it's connected an upload settings to device.

I don't bother changing any of the battery settings and it works well with 25Rs.

Sorry no idea, it is not an Evolv board or product maybe try Joytec, but the Evolv recommended wire size for the battery for an DNA 200 is 18 AWG silicon/ptfe insulated or 16 AWG PVC insulated.

Signed it earlier and will be emailing some MPs and Lords over the weekend with my personal story, but numbers on this petition are still very very important, spread #LordsVapeVote. It's 27 minutes before this terrible legislation has to be implemented by every country in Europe, many have not got it ready yet, by it will be UK law in 25 minutes. We have this brief window until June 10 to do something about it so if you are in the UK don't live with regrets act now or suffer the consequences of TPD Article 20. 20 mins now, I'm a slow writer, dyslexic

Been mainly vaping on the 75s, but no doubt will be back DNA 200 soon, but very different price points especially when you factor in the same cost for the screen $38 vs $68 and the swappable battery is a big plus for me. They are far better than the Evic Mini especially with SS316 IMO, the difference in vape quality with SS316 between the 2 is night and day I let a friend try both at a vape meet and has been using cheap mods for 2 years and he ordered a DNA 200 a few days later.