VapingBad

That is typical of a poor connection, 510 or board ground, ss is more sensitive to it because of the very low TCR.

It just looks like recovery charge pulsing the battery, it is a special case most mods would just not charge if your batteries got that low.

Never seen nor heard of overcharging DNA before. I would put battery pack & battery pack % on the charge screen and use a USB current or power metre to check the current is lowering when the battery is approaching full and that it does not charge over 4.2 V with another battery. Mine charges at 0.79 A (USB) all the way up to 98%, the current starts to reduce at 98% (4.18 V at the battery, 4.1 V on the screen). It terminates charge slowly over about 30 mins gradually reducing the current, when finished the battery was 4.19 V when charging finished. Have you loaded a battery profile csv file? IDK if that could cause this, but if so I would check that none of the values are greater than 4.20 V. I tried a quick test altering the first point on mine to 4.25 V and it did continue to charger, at very low current (0.05 A USB), then it seem to pulse the battery at that low current, it's like it wants to charge the battery but detecting the battery is not accepting charge as expected, it soon went to 0.00 A USB, charge icon gone and fire button USB off, the battery was at 4.19 V after so I don't think this is an answer. If if only does it with that battery it is probably a bad battery, but if it does it with another I would get it exchanged.

Power supply mode bypasses all the battery protection so don't use it with a battery other than for testing, but it looks like you have a wiring or connection problem with the balance connection I would try cleaning that first.

Preheat is a matter of personal preference, you could certainly increase the power and the punch if you want it to get to temp faster. (punch is how close it gets to temp before stopping preheat, IIRC 0 = -160 F, 11 = -10 F)

Yes, very much so, if you lock the ohms you stop the board being able to refine the base/cold resistance by monitoring the coils temp against room temp while they cool, they do this for up to half an hour after going into idle to get the most accurate resistance reading possible.

You shouldn't lock the resistance.

LiPos do not have a memory effect, they do age, you can slow ageing by using max recharges setting (this can double the life, by only charging to 4.1 V 90%). Not draining to empty also extends life, probably the next is to keep the battery between about 30 & 80% with more frequent top up charges. Other things that will reduce the life are extreme temperatures, storing fully charges or storing empty, best to store around 3.7 V. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

If you set the 316 profile to 0.006 (Ni200) then dereference it (choose anther material in you profiles) then delete it from the mod, then take it from the list on the left and put it on the mod and select it in the profiles you want. If you have changed the one in the left hand list, delete it, close EScribe, disconnect all mods, open EScribe, chose edit default DNA 200 profile and save the one in there to your hard drive, then plug the mod in and import it.

I think so (large screen obviously), it is the same screen as the 200 which can use a 40 large screen, but the screen that comes with the 60 probably wont work with a 40.

The LiPo it too low for normal charging you may be able to get it going again using Tools - Diagnostics - USB recovery charging, it may take a few attempts as there is a short time limit for safety.

It will also be slow if the battery is nearly full, all Li chargers slow as the battery gets close to full. IDK if that's what is happening though.

It maybe your board temp it high @ 126 F, I don't know the exact numbers, but they do reduce the charge rates when the temp get too high. Only normally comes up with plastic cases as metal cased with good mountings act as a heat sink for the board. Try letting the mod cool, maybe put board temp & USB current on the charging screen temporally, and see if it will charge faster.

Looks right to me going by /topic/66518-topic/?do=findComment&comment=897999 I cropped your pic as it may be useful to others

IDK, but would guess that it was a settings file from a previous version of EScribe that had fewer fields EG Materials, Temp sensing material or Temp Dominant.

Release version from the DNA 200 product page https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna200 v1.2SP3

The 200 in 2 cell mode is 133 Watt, two thirds of the 3 cell max power.

The drivers are on the PC, you can run the installer again and just check drivers in the options if you want to reinstall them.

The closest to an answer is this thread /topic/67577-topic/ but he replaced the switches so there is a small possibility that you may need to bridge some of the pads, but I as John didn't mention it probably not. With the 40 you definitely had to bridge two of the pads after removing the fire switch.

Don't lock the ohms, take a vape or two, let it sit and cool a while so it can refine the resistance reading.

A quick google and they should be 0.2 ohm coils, all you are doing by setting the cold res to 0.28 is tricking your devices to give you a higher temp than you set by increasing the cold resistance. Using a TCR of 0.006 a 0.23 ohm Ni coil would be 0.523 ohm at 450 F, a 0.28 ohm Ni coil would be 0.636 ohm at 450 F, but for a 0.23 ohm coil to be 0.636 it would have to be at 598 F. To me that just says that's the way you like those coils, some tanks an coils like to be at different power or temperature levels than everything else and I guess this must be one of those. As long as you are enjoying your vape, but IMO it is not an issue with the DNA rather an issue with that one type of coil and would be so on most devices. I have used Ni200 down to 0.03 ohm dual coils and like all Ni builds in a decent rebuildable it is a rock solid performer, I always have a triple twisted dual coil Ni build on the go. 0.04 ohm is the lower limit to get the full 200 W, but you do need the mod res set properly for accuracy at these ultra low resistances.

Impossible to know without more info, so you get a good vape with res locked what value do you lock at and what value does Atomiser Analyser show for cold ohms if it is not locked 15 mins after unlocking and taking a vape or two?

You do not need to lock res with DNAs. I have also seen that advice in youtube it does not apply to DNAs only some of the less advanced temp limiting mods. DNAs will be more accurate leaving it to analyses the resistance over a range of temperatures. It has been so since the DNA 40 was introduced 2 years ago, some of the later players in the temp control market did not manage to, or bother to include the refinement feature and I think this confused some of the reviewers into thinking locking the res was desirable, it is not.

Locking the resistance is normally the worst thing to do, if you have to lock the ohms to get it to work that is a sign of too much resistance in you atty or mod, or poor connections. I think the locking res advice has come from people using less advanced mods, DNAs have always had refinement mode to get the most accurate cold res possible. Sometimes you do need it, but it should be seen as a last resort, in 2 years of temp mode vaping it has only happened to me once because the tank had a connection issue that I couldn't fix.

The fullymax 900 is 30C 27 A continuous, just an amp under the max input current for a 250 28 A, but the pulse rating is way above this at 54 A. https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna250 So in the 900-1000 mAh range you want a 30 C continuous battery, for 1300 mAh and above a 25 C (32.5 A) will be fine. (I deleted 2 posts, as they were off topic and not friendly)