VapingBad

Having a higher C rating battery is fine, I would test the battery you found with a 3S battery tester or multi metre first to check it is wired correctly it is not unheard of that they connect cells in the wrong polarity or reverse the balance connection.

It takes a while, that cell is in a state where they can't use the usual charging method. see here 37 mins, he name checks some looser though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxP0FFnF2-8&feature=youtu.be&t=2221

If one or more cells are below 3 V (not sure the exact figure it could be 2.5 V) normal Li charging won't work (this is common to most chargers) and you can try EScribe - Tools - Diagnostics - USB Recovery Charge to get it above 3 V, it may take a few goes as there is a safety time limit. It could also be dry joints or dirty pins on the balance connector.

You are not the first and won't be the last. You can use the battery -ve or any of the 3 mounting points, but bend the wire before soldering as the thick wires can wick up the solder, become very stiff and rip the pad off when you apply a lot of force to the wire as you found, or use a heat shunt on the wire when soldering. But be careful with the +ve as I don't think there is an alternative for that.

Sounds like a bad battery, but could be a bad balance connection, if you have a multi metre you could measure the battery voltage to check it is the same as EScribe shows. If it is or you don't have a metre try going to Diagnostics - USB Recovery Charging in EScribe first, you may need a couple of goes as it has a safety time limit, if that doesn't work you will and it's under warranty contact who you you got it from.

That would break 8 of my mods, ss res reads spot on (2 DNA 75s, 5 DNA200 and a DNA 250) when I don't lock the res, adding 0.02 would cause all my atties to vape too hot. Having to lock the res to get it to work is a sure sign there is an issue with the connections, coil build or a mismatched material. Fair enough do that if it is the only way you can get it to work, but in general they read and refine the resistance extremely accurately and locking res is bad advice.

It does look like that.

Don't lock ohms it stops the mod working out the coil resistance properly and can make using ss very difficult.

It will show the version in the bottom left corner of device manager, the latest is V1.2SP4 link in my footer.

Temperature protection message is not anything to worry about, it is just an info message that you have gone past temp and you can turn it off in EScribe. If it works with Ni it is probably the wire, connections or the coil build. If it is too hot then the cold res reading could be too high, but as long as you do not lock resistance the mod should be able to compensate for that after idling of 10 or more minutes. Claptons can suffer from hot spots so are going to be the hardest types of coils to track down an issue with,

It is most likely a connection issue, I had a ss dual twisted coil drop out of temp control recently and it was just a post screw that needed tightening, also 510 adjustment on atties and the 510 connections in the device are worth checking.

Which version of fw are you running?

I can get 1.97 A from USB3 ports on my laptop with a good cable, I prefer measuring in watts and get 9 W from USB3 with my best cable, 9.6 W is the best I have got from a supply, 10 W is the theoretical max (2 A @ 5 V). A average cable like the one that came with my Samsung Mini S3 drops that drastically, 5.5 W from USB3. This is the Samsung Mini S3 cable (800 mm long) on the first half, I guess a fairly average USB cable and a cheap flat short (200 mm) USB cable on the right which charges at a much higher rate.

Factors that will reduce the charge rate are board temp (you can show that on the charge screen) and poor cable with too much voltage drop. The current can also be limited in device manager and it is worth checking that is not the case.

You can put the board temp on the charging screen in EScribe.

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Yes, it pauses charging while you vape and for IIRC 5 seconds after.

lol, I think most of have vaped the tank dry and looked for a fault in settings before realising. I vaped a dual coil genesis with ss wicks for over a year on the DNA40 and you really really don't want to get a dry hit from them, I never did though could vape that thing dry and often did with nothing worse than little or no vapour.

No.

Either, max puffs is a standard charge to 4.2 V per cell or 100% capacity, max recharges charges to 4.1 V per cell about 90% capacity and will roughly double the working life of your battery.

Using power supply you turn off all the battery safety features so you should no run it like that, does it still say the voltage is 5.1 in power supply mode? It could be your battery connections, reverse battery protection board or the connections from that to the board. All you can do really is clean the battery connections and check they are making contact properly especially at the positive end where there is a raised ring.

Only thing I can think of is forcing a fw update.

I would try reinstalling V1.2SP3 making sure the drivers option is checked.

I believe the 250 needs power to the board first unlike the other DNAs.

Recharging is so fast on the 200 if you are near a power point regularly you can just top up charge between puffs a few times a day. A 900 mAh LiPo in one is very easy to live with that way, 20 mins top up charge gives you about a third of a full charge.