black lace

Well you allready know its broke and it definatly looks like somthings sat across the balance wires and melted them, i would try emailing evolv and see if you can get it replaced. ""Nothing ventured nothing gained."".

Thats it materials tab..

Am on mobile so cant tell you exactly, but there is amouther part of escribe if you tab through where the materials should be listed, if theyr not there i would re load the program..

At #11 i gave you some very sound information i can promis you, then i left two spaces and hiphoned off, and had a joke, i realy do appologise for causing you so much distress, i will feel guilty all day now, shame on me... LONDON

Whos he,, Unbalievable Anyone can read it was a light hearted joke, you have responded like a baby,,, strange!! i thought you said built for a giggle. I think ive rumbeled you though, ""come off it pal"", For my reading, what your saying now isnt realy consistent with your op..

(Stealth vape) post world wide and do Nife30 which is an awsome material, they also do Ni200 annealed and tempered its a doddle to make clapton strands, tempererd core annealed wraps.. all his stuff is good, i wouldnt use anywhere els.. You know tightening any multipuls of wire, it should squish, so you may be over tightening. The allen keys and grubs are made of toffee though.. Lamo. ""3dclouds""?? ya know at #5 you say youve been building coils for years.. are you a time travler?? Lol cuz stealth vape also sell parts for time machines.. the wheels fell off mine..

Its not a cheap game and it does yer head in when things go wrong. I had the hana 30 and every time it fell a few feet off the dashboard onto the carpet it landed on the atty, so eventualy the 510 was just loose, ive built my own since and got some anti slip rubber mat stuff for the dash. i would put an rma ticket in, and a pic of the detached inductor block.

Should have done the same with the hana as well if it was real..

Think he said single coiling, , Dont use the ti myself but the twin ni claptons ive made i keep the lead legs as short as i can, so push the coil as close to the posts as you possibly dare, to try and keep it equal..

Sos to state the obvious but it can get overlooked. I dont use ti myselfe but feel that the moor bulk of material used for a coil, the constant heating and cooling of coil is slightly changing the resistance naturaly, so the moor material the moor change in resistance, obviouse, experimenting with coils is a pain and time consuming, i would suggest, go into wire wizard, steam engin, try setting up two or three different csv files for the coil and load the same two or three different profiles onto the mod, and switch between them until ect, waiting for someone to give you a recipie on a perticular build and give you a csv file to download would be nice,, setting your mods actual resistance would help make it measure and perform a little moor accuratly. there is a chap on hear i think his name is jalhaze or somthing, hes a real guru on the coils and files, i'll search his name for you and edit.... " jaquith " hes your man search his posts.. lock ohms on device locked . Press fire and up button..turn power and temp down first so they dont ajust the ohms.

A seperate ballance charger is allways usefull, not everyone would see one as a wise purchase, but i allways initially charge all my lipo batteries on a little imax b3 while ime compleating a build and then its ready to go.. a basic multi meter and charger shouldnt cost moor than £15 off fleabay. allways.. hard wiring a battery to a board.. should be a last resort.. (eg lack of space) and has to be done methodicaly to avoid short outs, as well as disconecting a hard wiered battery from a board..

Oh ok, non taken, lol, ive no experiance of a bad battery, only a bad charge circuit, hopefully a new battery will get it up an running for him.. we live an learn..

Post back when you get a new battery in it, and i'll keep my fingers crossed for you. I cant see why your not getting your charge screen up though even if the battery is duff... i would put a ticket in and then you have it allready on standby if the new battery dont fix things..

I can just see one of your jst solder joints pokeing up behind the usd connector and looks very clean and well done, presuming the rest of the soldering is to that standard (allthough a pic would be good) i can tell you i had a board that wouldn take on a charge or even show the battery symbol, i put it down to componants on the board and sent it back, i wouldnt throw it out the window, lol, thats allways the trouble with mod building, does yerh head in, all the work and then it wont run. some manufacturers sell boards with leads pre soldered and sealed over, i dont believe its so much they dont trust the builder, its moor they can test it moor thoroughly, you should get a straight swap over on that. i reccon if you had a petty short at that end, it would either burn free or just burn big time..

Can you do us a shot of the otherside?

Ok cheers .. will have a bash..

Agree. Why would you whant to look at the screen while vaping, the pleasures in the vape not fancy screen watching. the op may have misinterpreted some sales gimmic superimposing a company logo onto a screen, but i did remember and vaped off mine this morning within a second of start up and it did work and i have 3 & 2 seconds of start up screens, for the sadness of the experiment..

When you say torch it. do you mean to a cherry red like annealing kanthal or just a quick blast to blue it.

am pretty sure that when connected into escribe, 1, select power from the battery drop down list, 2, with batteries removed, will it fire an atty, 3, if not you have confirmed a blown fuse.. your mod is saying that, that particular battery is dead flat according to the screen, (so you cant expect much to be happening) I would try charging it via an external charger conditioner before condemning it, just incase.

Ok just got back and had a blast, it hadnt gone to sleep, probly because it was still charging.. If it was doing my head in showing everything but what i whanted on screen i would probly turn the screen off (stealth mode).. I know what vb means, ,, the op and cloudchaser are absolutly right though, there isnt a custom face, once my mods/atys are set up i dont need to be monitoring temp, power, ohm until somthing starts failing, like a for few days..

Think its about an hour, ive never tried just unlocking and vaping, ive got one on charge right now so in an hour ill have a bash , lol. ""Oh "" Just pressed it.. it will have ta be in an hour from now..

I havnt actualy tried it but you know if you where to set both your welcome and secondary welcome screens to say 55 seconds each, can you actualy vape from the device in that one minit fifty seconds?, or is the mod still asleep?

Sos to state the obviouse but also basic wattage lock,, while unlocked press up and down buttons together to lock on desiered power,, also standard five clicks of fire button to lock device, beffor putting in a pocket ect.. Someone i know keeps sitting on theirs and putting it into stealth mode and thinking the screens broke.

I'm sure a bloke of your caliber will get to the bottom of it,,, all i can say is most attys and mods i have are vertualy married to each other ;; with simple coiling and csv files to suite.. (coil & legs lifted well clear of the deck)

If you have the batteries, good to use them but if the inards of the mod isnt allready set up for them, i would give myselfe the headach fitting a lipo instead or parallal lipoes for the space you must have, rarther than 2650's in series, then your back on full 200.