black lace

Unfortunatly the op has retracted everything he has had to say. Including liebalus photographs.. shame i picked up a second warning over being left to deal with him on my own..

No i told you what to do at paragraph 14, now dont forget what youve preaviously said and start contradicting yourselfe will you, i dont wish to help you make a ect ect ect, of yourself.. i like the popular american saying ""you suck": not that im suggesting that you suck, just saying, i like that one.. where i come from we have a saying.. ""you cannot con a black country mon""" im now off to worm the dogs 'dave' and 'maxx' so you will have to steap.

I knew that months ago by your body language in your avitar picture..this forum is about vaping.. I also know this thread is an example of irresponsibilaty and carries absolutly no other value for the knowladge base, and suggest you get it struck out..

How on earth can you put that picture up and say roger or who ever at opus are very picky as to what they put through and then slate evolv over a bad fuse batch that you claim to have a bunch of, dont you think your problem lies with opus, i rest my case. I will not contribute any further to this schoolboy mentality thread..

erm bad website management and discrimination, shame on you,, he called me boy first, (boy) was a blast out, talk down, attempt to gain upper hand, he even backed himself up with the (im trying to remain nice remark) (because he knows I've found him out) (you fool) was a term of endearment now I'm on computer and looked closer at the pics, I suspect they are not manufacturer incarnations, as fare as I know US health and safety is moor stringent than UK, that work would not pass UK regs no way. I've had this before, a person asks for help, then they get on the defensive, when one tries to put them right, then they start side tracking, when I get closer to the real truth, I've also said before that you haven't got to come on here and slate the board off for the purpose of getting an rma request put through, which is now also evident. just look at the battery leeds and jst connector pic, no way has that come out of a reputable firm, if your going to slate someone off or pull someone up, select a target and fire, in this thread, opus get slated, evolve get slated the Chinese get slated, I get slated for pointing out the cause of the problem at paragraph 5 , I hope someone copies and sends them that pic.

you blew the fuse. yes but what caused the board to fail? you blew the fuse. yes but why did the fuse blow. I don't know I wasn't there, would you like a copy of the manufactures instructions.

Dont get steamed up.. you keep the back on now and your fuse and fet problem will be shut out.. it was john and brandon that created the dna range you fool... .....

No i think you will find my mods posted in the show us your builds , you might have to back trak a bit but im not doing it for you im on mobile, if you wish to challange me for money, pay it to a moderators pay pal email address, i will get to a computer and i will be taking it from you..

Mine, dna200 g/box 1300, glued shut, so not for you. Counting puffs between breakdowns is laughable.

I like the way they seal everything up with glue so it cant be messed with, ive adopted it myselfe and i dont get comebacks, one hundred percent nit wit free. see ya..

Sorry mate youve lost me, i wasnt aware opuss had allready been slamed, i gave my view as my view and havn't copied anyone, i dont need to, allso you say rodger at opuss is picky, unyet he let through a burnt jsth connector,,, in my earlier post where i say not the best soldering ive seen, i was refering to the negative battery lead, im on mobile, it looks like there are a few loose strands of wire not flowed or uniformley tinned, i dont have the focus on mobile to see what your saying about the jsth connector,,, also your picture of a burned out fet is a perfect example of what i described of somthing like a metal fragment falling aggainst its connector tabs,, and shorting and burning it up,, you have not got a fuse problem,,, if you have followed my post carefully you havnt understood what i said,, again i reitarate.. i cannot emphasise enough how important it is to maintain a clean enviroment when building, repairing or poking around, and allways be disconnected from battery and terminals shrouded..

Took out half of the board before the fuse blew.. that isnt a bad fuse, thats a bad somthing els that took the fuse with it. logicaly if you have boards with under rated fuses, replacing the fuse, the problem is solved. ive managed to blow one fuse with a combination of bad charger and a shorting out atty, other than that, everything i build i blast out with high preassure air to remove any swarf or fileings, then seal it shut, not many people apreciate the work involved getting them built so why put them at risk,,, with an easy access back its destined for an early death.. if one tiny strand of wire falls accros the contact legs of say a fet, the whole thing will just combust and fuse stay intact. i'd say your question should be moor on how many of that mod by the manufacturer fail, it could be down to the building process...unclean enviroment, Looking at the soldering in the pic, not good enough for me but ive seen worse.. but still an indicator of poor quality.

lol, hope your having a good break, you will know by now anyway, we did cover it quite in depth several weeks ago and all the regs got pasted up, but in short, for anyone els, rule of thumb you book in with all your baggage, so if in doubt, ask there and then and make adjustments there and then, a no brainer really..

Disconect it down for safety and put it in your mrs's suitcase,,

Im absolutley convinced that with the stainless there are so many different grades of the metal, and say for 316 or 430 how wide is the parameter of the mix of alloys for it to fall into that numbered catagory, and how much does it interfear with critical measurements on a loaded csv file, for instance when you go on wire wizard they do try and help out moor with the drop down menue of manufacturers or suppliers label on spool brand of wier...but who knows how different each batch is or where it came from.. for me its stealth Nife30 or stealth tempererd ni200 its just job done no headach. i have got spools of wier hear that are most definatly not what it says on the lable, and some folk on this site swear by it. So what hsppend there. Its crazy..

sos mate been away, dont think i could have answered the question any better than robh at #5 only to add that when twin coiling ss becomes technicaly difficult to get an equal ballance, like there is no forgivness from the loaded file. We all started on kanthal, whatever you put the time into, it will come and you will get it.. having base build information and settings information is allways an advantage and a very good start, but the building, fitting and programing in is allways going to be down to the end user... until escribe advances into an auto tune section, where you plug your mod into escribe and the program fiers the mod and takes all the measurements and recalibrates it for you, entirely.. I do believe a data base or library of all coil builds and fiering files would be good, as yet anouther thing, but programs like wire wizzard exist, and again , get your build to work is down to the end user, anyone can wrap a piece of wire round a stick, getting it up and running is the bit...

I think single coiling probly is the best way with using the stuff, i will definatly have a bash using your recomendations, for the amount of stainless ive got here gathering dust, so for the sake of using it up... ive found twin coiling ss a nightmare.. good quality flavoursome juice has allways over ridden whatever material ive used, and have allways found Nfie30 very easy to work with, both building and tuning in.. no disrespect to the op i can appreciate what hes trying to do, but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt..

Can you not hold the nut still and turn the 510, or copy a 510 tightening tool, do a search for fat daddy vapes 510 tightening tools..

Does the little battery icon with lightning flash show up on the mod screen when attempting to charge, you dont need to be connected go a computer, a mobile phone charger with micro usb will do a cleaner job. i ask because one of my builds had this missing and its a bad charger on the board, can you put pics of the bottom of the board up, each side,, but only adding to the inquest realy, Its rma time ..

I am happy that i havent the faintest idear what your on about and im sticking to it..

I think the usb output is a manufacture dependant add-on, ,, we where looking for anouther computer last year and one we looked at had this app on it, but nothing to do with windows operating system,, THE TRUTH IS OUT THERE. Now i feel old because i also remember when it was called 3.1 for windows. Lol

If one where to do a graph of all the wire metal types, of which one people had mentioned had a problem with, it would hands down be peaking stainless,,,, so looking at the said graph, logicaly speaking, one would have to say " its shitt" logicaly speaking..

I would say that if your ressistances are stable, your fittings are sound, have you tried the onboard files for different materials. you havent got a bad battery in there have you?

I had this with stainless, i never put it in vv/vw to get it back on trak though, i increased the temp by sometimes upto 100 degrees, then stopped using it, too much headach. Never had it with Ni200, think your csv's have to be absolutly critical and coil fitted to file, one leg longer than the other and hot spots, too much hassle..