black lace

Working from the centre out, it might be possible to cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver, with a multi tool engraver, if the screws are stainless the engraver bit wont last long, probly one for each, if your replacing the pannels i would just grind them off and like nick said , if theres any stud left, twist it out with the pliers.. torx heads are often slightly tapered, if you go at them with an alen key they will mash up, Its often ok to go at an alen key head with a torx bit, i do it on me bike all the time but not vice versa..

I know exactly what you mean and can imagin it, ive had a piece of vanear bure walnut sat under a draw, it would suit a gbox because the metel is quite thick but i would need someone to mill the sides out so i can inlay them, its the getting round to it..

I get half way through a build and have anouther going on in my head. I wouldnt buy one, too easy to make . Just keep to the rules, ,, connect battery last.. your above link is for the g/box but allready cut, awsome boxes, i paid fifteen quid for mine and had to cut them myself,,, ive glued mine shut, no need to keep fetching the back off once your satisfied its running.

Probly a spacer gasket.. and yes i use them or thoes batteries, you know the boards got a 1amp charger and you can allways give it a twenty minit blast or whatever to top up, no disrespect but dont let battery size do your head in, most are using 900 / 1300.. i like the way hes got the 510 nut butted against the corner post to help keep it firm. I prefer mine in the centre and would have put my jsth connector on leads so it would tuck in down by my xt connector giveing better clearence at the top, but were all bonifide builders and the 200 is the best tool to have in a mod.

Probly only be able to grind the heads off with a dremil or multi tool and then glue it shut after youve finnished.

still on mobile so cant check any measurments, i cant remember off the top of me head if you need 10 or 15 millimeters of space for mounting the board, you could look at some of the mods in the lets see your 200s section. For insparation and finer details.. ive built some right useful beasts and enjoy them all..

I like my hammond 1590a boxes with an equivalent 900mah lipol in, but theyr not everyones cup of tea because they are not true square, the sides are slightly slanted, but i love that because of the way they sit comphy in my hand and back pocket, modmaker sell em or you can copy the dimensions and they do simular boxes to thoes measurments, i use modmaker & stealthvape theyre both very good, im planning on doing a dna75 with the fatboy box ect like i said above, i havnt checked the sizing for a dna200 in it and am on mobile at the moment, but im prety sure theres plenty of room and theyr also some 1000 mah tripple graphine powere paks coming in now.. people are changing over from the lipol..

Rule of thumb a lipo is three times moor efficiant than the li-mn's so your 900mah lipol would be moor like 2700mah and you also need to look at what your attys your using, a 900 lipol is good allday powering a single coil mouth lung type atty like a kayfun russian. twin coiling drippers and rtda's like aromatizers, i wouldnt go any lower than a 1300mah lipol, ,, Personaly if i couldnt achieve the full 200 watt like it was designed because of batteries, i would go with a dna 75 in the fat boy box with a 26650 battery. or go to stealth vape co. And get one of his pre cut dna200 enclosures and a 1300 mah triple from hobby king off ebay

I stuff tissue in mine to clean the female threads and scratch the top of the centre pin with a sharp screwdriver,,, when the centerpin has become sticky, (like jamed in the bottom of the 510, and not springloaded) i have lubed it with a single drop of motor oil, then worked it ip and down with tweezers, then swabed up any exess with moor tissue, . Most 510 connectors have some kind of seal in there so you should be ok, nothing should run into the mod..

I've made my own in the past out of 1mm firestone roofing rubber, but for the screw type 510 centerpin as spacers, (screw up and downy) i aint seen a lot of em about for mod building, would be happy to use some.. like ciggreen and sigelei used back in the day, in the olden days, about 18 months ago..

thats interesting that yoy find black over white moor astheticaly pleasing than white on black, can i ask are you left or right eyed.

Ive had a few issues with them, not sure wich version 3 or 4 the brass end caps fall appart when you assemble them, screw them up all the way and then screw your atty on, it forces the bottom off, very frustrsting as its the final part of a build, i just use a generic one, very similar to varitube but a beefier spring.. beefier spring than the ftv as well actually, and cheaper..

I agree each to their own but i cant help but pick up on the subjective bit, if youve bought somthing, say a bad flavour or a rubbish atty and been told ""peoples prefference is subjective""" it means youve been sold crap.., until vaping,, never in the history of mankind has anyone got away with selling crap and telling the unhappy customer ,, ""yeh its subjective"":::

Good for you, hope it gets sorted quick..

Because it a frail connection, or even swamped with juice. Edit, for instance.. if it was a torch and the light kept flikering you would bang it on the side until it worked, the petty short of it is messing the settings up..

You will find the problem in there, it aint no program glitch, its mechanical,, batteries usually are well packed, just try not to tear the foil layer..

Just googled it.. it looks like a nice mod for the money, shouldnt be too difficult to take the screws out the bottom and slide it appart..

Program date is at bottom right hand corner of device monitor.. What happens if you set a material and fire it with nothing on, does it revert back to the .006... like no atty on , not take your clothes off, sos confused,,,is that your mod res .006? Because I still think you have an issue at the 510,

Cant rule it out then. Did you say it works ok in temp mode on other materials???

Thats how i feel about electronics as well, so it must be mechanical, ,,, worked ok now doesnt work,, 510 center pin and spring needs looking at, clenliness, free travel, spring condition, try and view the whole component,,, has the bottom droped off where your power out wire goes in..,, see it would still work as an ohms reader and fire but with a loose or poor connection your bad power flow would interfear with temp readings ect.. there aint much els to go wrong to be straight..

No the whole thread was done and dusted by about the fourth input, the rest was rhubarb.. and then went pear shaped.. so he changed his mind and deleated it.. edit.. oh i meant the thread not him, ness hes deleated himself..

Lmao, You have the deleat button..

Thanx i aim to please.. now get to bed.. i'm telling vaping bad.... """Vaping baaad"""" vaping baaad"""""" modbustets turned yellow and his eyes are too close together..

Have you tried mittens..

Im on mobile at the moment, im just thinking that if i disconnect the computer from the internet beffor i switch it on i may be able to retreave everything and paste it back in, but i'll probly get in trouble for it, oh well, amazing the lengths people will go to,to get a free board..