black lace

Unfortunayly vb no disrespect everyone entiteled to an opinion but i disagree with yours on this occasion, i am looking at heated flux staining around the ground out tab as well as solder, the soldering that can be seen is very bad, moor hot dirty flux bonded, no alloying of the two surfaces can be seen, a dry as you like to say, or porus joint may have been easier identifiable as suss, but reading through the thread would he have addressed them, i think not, we have still not yet seen the soldering at the jst tabs. And for someone who has built 18 plus mods leaves me asking "whats the craick:, also for you to say you know who he had the boards off,,, what on earth has that got to do with anything. Are you saying they are selling boards fetched out the bin? The op will go allong with anyone who says somthing favourable , i havent said i oppose an rma its not my buissiness, i even said flip the board out and check your jst tabs because its coming out anyway.. if your backing him up because you wish to keep sweet the person you happen to know gave him the boards, your opinion is biase... I could have done a better job in the brownies and i would have got a badge ta put next ta me tea pot badge.. prahaps if he wraps it up with vinegar and brown papper and puts it to bed, it will be better on day five, lmao

if you remove your board and look at your jst block soldering, you may have a bad connection there or a single strand of wire intermitantly shorting across from one lead to anouther may be enough, to trigger a screen responce, either way your board will be coming out to get sent back, i can see that your soldering is cold, (poorly flowed) when building or assembling a mod or any other componant, the fitter should trust the solid state componant as one of mass produced thousands is of good order and should first check, even reado his work,, you said days ago that your soldering is sound but it can be clearly be seen that it is poor and you wish to over look it, and go on and on about the problem rather than the cause,, in the workplace i would have condemed it alot sooner than you but i would also susspect that anouther incident has occurrd that you havent mentioned, eg, you have shorted the board live, seen sparks and know that any further practical handed work would be futile.. there is also clear evidence of somthing desoldered from the ground tab.. suggesting it is a board salvaged from anouther mod or you initialy wiered it up wrong.

Ok, urm swan neck..or "S" bend. when i was building 30s and 40s i realy mangeled screen ribbons up and never had any problems, its only been when building on the 200s and clearing that firing button it starts looking precariouse, still havent had an issue just cracked a glass to be different. Lol

I epoxi resin my screens to the inside of mod then bring the wiered up board to the box clamped to the bench and then connect it in place like that. I hold the board in place with stand off rails bought from stealthvape, i have nothing but the loop of exess screen ribbon between board and back of screen.. if you havnt allready, check stealthvape.co.uk for small parts, allso modmaker.co.uk, both do overseas.. also wireing a seperate firing button may be adventagouse, because of the length of the screen ribbon looped over it will hit a pushrod button if you dont put a consiteener bend in it, a lot of people come unstuck and fracture the robbon, tightly folding it rathere than bending.

Build a mod, cant get it working right, blame the board,,, Like theres only 25 in the whole world. Laughable..

That is an awsome very clean build, you have made it look so easy, probly one of the nicest dna200 mods ive ever seen.. manufacturers will be sqwerming.

strongly recomend you remake your jsth connections at block to board. just a simple few minuits of remedial soldering. i know what im on about.. i cant understand why you start acting like youve shitt yourselfe every time i mention soldering..

You would be buying a new screen or board screen included, ryan can you get the back off and put some pictures up..

Now it doesnt make sense that you cant diferentiate a mechanical issue from programing,

Yes no worries and thank you for the pictures of how to make a pigs ear out of a silk purse.. playing with a computer aint going to fix that ... and btw your screens off centre..lamo :ADVANCED USER DEVICE:

Yes we allready established you need a new screen.. stop wiggling it and replace it, lol..

At paragraph #7 unfortunatly your soldering is clearly not as good as what you say,, i can see it,,i have seen a lot worse though, best thing i can say to you is, if your confident you havnt got a minute fileing loged, and intermitantly shorting.. does it wake up from idle on its own while the back is off and the battery hanging out. (If it doesnt, you have it tightly assembled and its pressing its own buttons, or your batterys pressing agaist the jsth block and you have a craked solder joint there) but not quite like youve pressed my button telling me your soldering is sound when i can see its piss poor..you dont even have a satisfactory ground off connection to the box or 510, i can also see by the solder and burning at the ground tabb that you attemped a connection and then gave up, your relying on what looks like 3 oil blacked grubb screws holding the board in place. Poor very poor..

I see what your getting at,, i wouldnt recomend swapping the screens over though, the ribbons cant take being reworked. i think he would be better to buy a new screen for the sake of a few quid, he then wont be desturbing a working mod..

share whst you thought our bill..

Charging through a windows computer is going to be very slow anyway most only put out 500ma, as default, compared to a battery charger to the board will take 1000ma, and then looking at your battery icon on modscreen as standard should indicate a level, batterys are strange creatures, one can get used to how long they take to charge in their entirety, but there isnt an even rate..might be an even distribution of power to a tripple or twin via the charger, but the final equal ballance seems to take longest (like a watched kettle never boils) i think strange computer logic against logic for a computer to come up with a rough guess (ESSTIMATE)

yes is the answere..

if your still around lol,, within the first second of fireing the coil needs to increase temperature by 100 degrees to trigger a measurement, are you using stainless per chance?

set it up how you need it, put it in stealth mode, use it for the day, if there are no other issues come to light, the screens buggered.. or poorly fitted....

if you've got a short going on in there, a bit of swarf or snipet of wire rattling around, having it in the locked position wont make a shred of difference, I had a dna30 sat on a shelf behind me while I was eating my tea and after half hour of inactivity suddenly decided to switch on and combust, if your worried about it, disconect the battery , visualy inspect the inside and have a good blow round with some air duster.. (looking at your power out wire, it doesn't look fully tinned, if a single minute strand of that has broken loose and is rattling around inside, it may cause a problem)

it should be able to fire without the screen connected if the fuse hasn't blown! obviously you will have a little difficulty knowing when its unlocked, but connected to escribe you should still be able to set it to an atty and adjust your heat and power.......... if you can change your screen you shouldn't have to much difficulty testing the fuse, possibly even replacing the fuse..

In escribe device monitor does it recognise all three cells connected, because i would have thought a poor battery connection. Ive got one that lights up intermitantly while its charging on a 750ma charger, but its fine when charging on a 1amp, strange.

Are harhar, much fun will be had replacing that then??

I think vb cut that screen hole out blindfolded wiv both hands tied behind his back, standing on no legs. Lol, sos vb

It sounds like there was a fault with the screen and now the fuse has blown. It may have just been codged up with juice. does escribe recognise it connected? Can you get it open and visualy inspect the fuse and the rest of its inards.

Am on mobile so cant copy and paste to look on utube, but that sounds like a bad connection, worst case a cracked or snagged screen ribbon, but hopefully a greasy contact or juice in the screen connector tabs. Your gonna have ta get back in there.