black lace

Yes i dont blame you, i would recomend building your own to your own spec, you can use all the top end parts and still save money, ive never bought a tc mod only a wooden mech mod a few years ago and still use it, nothing in it to break down,,, built loads of tc mods, thousands of pounds worth.. now that i can build them i would never buy one, its just a tool for a job, i'll drop a pic next time im on a computer...all the best to ya... edit.. oh yeh the plain boards have allways been set at .00 obviously, and when ive checked and set theyve been .004/.005 so ive set accordingly, my stainless incarnations did benefit a bit but no noticeable supper critical difference on any other material..

You know because you sound so conversant with coil building, i dont think you would have any problem takling the 510 or at least cobbling somthing together to check the mod resistance. might be somthing simple like a sticking center pin (it does travel up and down with a bit of spring loaded ressistance doesnt it?) Sorry to state the obviouse but sometimes ,,, ect,,,

Lol, nearly had yah. Lol.

BILL. What does IDK mean??

Ziaibradv: While there talking amongst their selves, if you take the back off, disconnect your battery first what evere you do or you will have anouther blown fuse issue. look for any liquid on your board, and see if you can notice anything wrong with your screen ribbon....i know you can do it son..

Wish i could get a short screen cable.. oh sorry "screen cable shorting"..... ,,,,,, ,,,,,got juice on it..

Is it drenched in juice? Also is this the same mod that you had quite a drama with in january? i'm only on mobile but i remember you!!!

ok, if you change your mind we are all hear and are keen to help you, and keep you off the smokers.........

I get it from stealth vape uk, if you google it. i use 28 guage .32 mm single coiling small macro coils for rta's like kayfun russians .... and for larger coils on single coil rdtas like lemo 2 and occasionaly subtant, some i use 26 guage .40mm, but still also use 28 on twin coiling some drippers and my latest atty an aromatize i have used both the 26 and 28 and also twisted 28 and pretty much do the same with Ni200. Sos am on mobile so do not have screen space. Did you say what attomisers are you using? the main thing with temp control im sure you know is a good solid connection. when evolv first bought out temp control with the dna40 they couldnt emphasise enough how important a sound connection is, it tends to be assumed these days that everyone knows, but its often overlooked. stainless, i dont think you could have chose a moor tempermental material,, but wear all different. With updates available the boards allways going to be the same no matter what enclosure goes around it, so you only really need look at resistance, loss, connection, from the top of the board to your 510 on mod, then its down to the atty. and your coil building, and don't wick it to tightly or you wont get any juice in there and it will be different every drag. a steady consistent flow of juice helps..

Can you take some pictures and put them up you will.

What ever suits you is fine by me and everyone els, first rule of vape club, its your vape and how you enjoy it. i like the Ni200 & the Nife30 i have my atty set up so dm will show a steady one second ramp up and plant a perfect stesdy straight line parallal too and just under my max temp control line for a few seconds, perfect,,,

Awsome keep us posted, a little odd regarding not connecting to escribe, so might also have been somthing els,.. so just as well ta send it in..

Chill out and take a vape mike dude, stop winding bill up,,, it was only last week i had ta sit him down over there and make him a cup a tea.. lol..

It doesnt matter how stringent the regs get, we will still be at the top, the regs change for everyone, the company name fits perfectly. Its all about adapting and making a way forward. Two years ago there was no such thing as tc and you couldnt build a decent coil without a blowlamp. Think it was ray winston said,, ""where theres a will, and there is a will, theres allways a way, theres allways a f****** way""

Fair play to ya, you dont look at the screen while your vaping anyway... (Ya dont have ta look at the mantle piece while yam poking the fire lol)

the first dna board i had, i was so happy with it, i was worried about connecting it to escribe, and updating, just incase somthing went wrong, so i used it absolutley fine for over a fortnight until id finnished my second build. what im getting at is, if anyone thinks theyr going into somthing that is still waiting to be switched on theyr very much mistaken.. some updates are so small and are nothing to do with the operating system anyway, moor language additions and userbility, like ability of moving little icons round... nothing to do with the hardcore cloud blowing abilities allready done for ya....

I know were all weird geeks on here, lol.. Now that you said not bouncing around, its obviously down to the coil build and whatevere on, i dont use stainless rule of thumb, i drag it out now and then and have a bash when i see a coil build i fancy building and then revert back to my own comfort zone Ni200 & Nife30

The thing i was on about with the power out not going to the center of 510 pin and rather the end cap was ive seen a few connected the later, i belive it is probly down to individuals on the production line found a quick way of wiering it up not knowing that the spring would then become part of the equasion. Djcapi246;; i'm having great results with the Nife30 from stealth vape as a temp control wire, its a real doddle to make coils with and very reliable and you can realy fine tune your temp and wattage for a perfect device monitor picture, (picture as in visual performance observation)

I wanted to see if the ribbon was dragging on the button shaft, how have you got on with it anyway?

Pretty much my stainless efforts look alot like that aswell, might be an idear to have a look at your connection to 510 centerpin inside the mod, .. is the power out conected to the bottom of the 510 centerpin or is it soldered to a metal end cap. Also people are turning off or right down their pre heat punch,, that may calm it a little. But Power set in the 90s its gonna fly up there, have you not tried bringing it down to say 45watt and then work your way up and see if it vapes steadier and gets a smoother picture. food for thought though, i can have a nice steady vape off an atty for days and then connecting to dm can see its all over the place..

Awsome thank you, i will have a bash..

Dwcraig2:- what do you mean 4 strands? 4 twisted or four loops of a coil and what size mandrel, because im having doubts that the 430 that ive got is what i paid four, a device monitor screen shot would just show caos compared to yours.

Think three days isnt realy long enough for a reply, i would hang fire for a few days, dont know if youve tried it but.... ive read a few posts on the wismec where there are battery compartment contact issues, i havnt got one but it sounds somthing like an old tourch. I would externaly (off mod) charge new batteries, then youve verified the batteries are good, then when you fit them, what evere cell is shown as poor in escribe, is the contact clips that need addressing, also set the correct peramerters in escribe for the said batteries and upload to device beffor disconnecting. the larva box sounds dead dead dead and it is that that would be my priority for a return, but im quite sure you need a recipt to send with it, if its relativly new i would contact the person who sipplied it..

Fr33sp1r1t,,, Thanx for the tip, (upside down 510 center pin on the lemo 2) you certainly know your onions..

Each to their own and all that malarkey, but the best feature of any mod for me is when i press the button at the top, vapour comes out. As a mod builder using 200s i'm not thrilled either, i didnt get chance to get the softwear either, if we all got excited about softwear,,, meterphoricaly speaking we would all be walking round with our pants over our jeans. new uk regs coming out soon (like real soon) are dictating that any new mods (boards a grey area) will have to be indervidualy registered and then shelved for a six month cooling off period, ie manufacture recalls.