Spector NS5 RD

11.27 the first time around (2 days old) 11.73 the second time around (2 months later) battery meter is as close as i can it. give or take .15 - .25 mwh till 'weak battery'

you don't think it would just be easier to ship it back to evolv? more than likely they'll just replace the entire board with a new one. if you don't ship it back i would check both of the mosfet gate drivers on the other side of the board. how to test them? no idea. hope it works out for you!

you can try tapping the mod against something (don't go all 'hulk smash' on it though). you can get something very pointy and try to pry the pin back up. lastly (what i do) take the mod apart, disconnect the batt and push from the inside, underneath the positive pin (where the wire is soldered to). it looks like you crushed and split the insulator for the pin. worst case you might need a new 510. if you're not comfortable taking the screws out and opening up the mod, you can contact volcano ecigs about repairs. i never force an atty to sit flush with a device. if there's a gap, there's a gap.

it's what evolv calls "refinement" you can either : a.) lock your resistance at .13 this will prevent the dna 200 from changing your resistance. allowing you to have consistency over accuracy. b.)do not lock your ohms and let refinement happen. the dna 200 will "refine" (lower) your ohms down to .10 then simply turn your temp up (higher than 400°. (try 450°F - 500°F). allowing you to have accuracy over consistency. "refinement" is meant to make your device more accurate in terms of your temperature setting. hope this helps!

case thermals will vary, as i'm sure you already know, from mod to mod AND environment to environment. depending what your actual room temp is will come into effect. if there is a breeze hitting it. if your mod is laying down or standing upright (venting holes being blocked or not). my ni200 crown coils always read around .17 - .176 ohms on any of my 200's. i have noticed my old dna 40 small screen, the version before 'atty lock', sometimes likes to refine up an ohm. my two pennys.....

i would double check this is right part but this is what i came up with. http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-BSC014NE2LSI-DS-v02_02-en.pdf?fileId=db3a30433072cd8f013093b0024571b1 before de-soldering main components from the board, i would open a help ticket with evolv from their website, tell them your problem and see what they say to do. i would NOT send power through the board without a fuse. you could damage it further. does the MOSFET look burned? i know with a synchronous buck converter, the freewheeling diode is replaced with a second switch (MOSFET). i would check all four FETS. this is the link for a new fuse....... http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3413.0332.22virtualkey69300000virtualkey693-3413.0332.22

in this forum, do a search for 'hcigar warranty' that might help. there's a few warranty stories involving hcigar. maybe someone else who has dealt with hcigar's warranty can chime in here.

have you opened a ticket with evolv from their website? my guess is you'll have to de-solder the board then RMA the board back to evolv. where upon receipt of the bad board, they will ship a new one out. that's how it has worked for me. they are quick with shipping out new/repaired boards. sadly, you're not the first person to post about hcigar not responding to warranty issues. i have heard of hcigar not honoring warranties when their units are sold below MAP. maybe loan your customer a mod until the vt200 is repaired. that's my two cents.......

i understand you replaced and re-soldered the wires but, how are your soldering skills? i'm just asking because i don't know you from a can of paint. if you know your solder joints are 100% secure, then it's possible you have bum board. i still think something isn't making the best connection somewhere. 2 freshly charged 18650's should show more than your total of 5.23 volts for both. if it were my board, i would take it ALL back apart and start from step one. making sure my solder joints are nice and shiny, no gaps in solder etc. i also use an electronics safe flux. solder just flows so much better with flux. makes for an easier, nicer end product. you 100% sure taps 2 and 3 are bridged? continuity test across 2-3 with a DM to make sure. solder joints sometimes "look" ok when in fact they are not. a D M is your friend

can you take some pictures of all your solder joints? mainly all solder joints concerning power from the batteries to the dna board. you could have a bad solder somewhere between the two. that's what it looks like to me.........(you have the board configured for 2 cell operation in escribe, correct?)

up until the dna 200, vaporshark used a daughter board that had the necessary components for 2 amp charging. the vaporshark's dna 200 has the zif connector off to the side of the board rather than in the middle and is a slightly longer pcb. different charging components are also used for vaporshark. below is the vs dna 200 board.

there is quite a big difference between the wismec reuleaux DNA 200 and wismec RX200. on the subject of there being "crappy" or "non firmware upgradeable" versions of the DNA 200, that is simply not true. if the device has an authentic DNA 200 board, it will come from evolv just like all other DNA boards and all DNA 200 boards will be firmware upgradeable and able to use the escribe computer program. as for the the best DNA 200 mod available now, that's up for debate. i personally like my WISMEC REULEAUX DNA 200 and my VT200. with my hammond 1590A coming in third. it comes down to what will suit your needs as a device and as a vaper.

all of the dna 200 boards will charge at a MAXIMUM of 1 amp, no higher. vaporshark had evolv put a couple beefier components on the dna 200 pcb to achieve 2 amp charging on their vaporshark dna 200.. "set usb current limit" will let you adjust from 0 to 1 amp.

i have to agree with you when it comes to me owning two STM's and a lemo drop. they have been the worst performers for tc, in terms of stability. the lemo being the worst. i had to retire one STM do to it not behaving in regular good ole power mode. the lemo is ok most of the time, but only with kanthal. i don't bother to try and do tc with those type of tanks anymore. i find the design of my aromamizer's 510 to be the best for tc, along with a few other RTA's that don't use premade heads.

the premade kanger ni200 coils were janky at best (the horizontal coils were pretty bad for tc, i'm not sure how the new vertical ni200 coils perform.) 350° F is very low for a temp setting. i usually vape in the 480°F - 550°F. i don't use kanger coils anymore because they were so inconsistent when it came to the vape quality. also make sure you "mod resistance" is set correctly in escribe. it's best to test your specific mod's res but, 0.007 seems to be the average for the lavavbox. when your subtank is at room temp, with a ni200 kanger coil installed, what is the cold ohm reading on your lavabox. it should close to .15 (.14 - .17 is also normal).

awesome! i love it! i don't know how long she'll hold up but if it works and you're happy, i'm happy for you. #BUILTNOTBOUGHT

you mean when you send in a board for repair or replacement, do they notify you they received it? no, but you can tell if the board was picked up by them from the PO box by checking the tracking number.

the dna is seeing absolutely no voltage. it's basically as if no battery were present. you have a definite connection issue somewhere between the battery sled and board. drop the device or run it at a high wattage and low ohm build? you have different batteries to try in the device? lewisss is correct in saying the reverse battery protection on the dna relo can get in the way of a solid connection when it comes to certain batteries. will the device turn on or at least try, when removing and reinstalling the batts? or only turns on when connected to the usb? your ground screw snug? (located behind the foam plug in the battery sled, gold plated screw). you confident on opening the device up and checking all the solder joints, wires and fuse?

VB can still put his two cents in.....but i find the FDV center pin spring not as strong as others. stronger the spring, the better the connection.

you can smooth it out some. keep your wattage low so you don't quite reach your set temp. once you reach your set temp with hi wattage, as you know, the dna has a difficult time regulating the temp. doable but not exactly like the smoothness of an ni build. also, make sure you have no preheat stage for SS. i make sure my build is solid, lock the ohms, you'll never get a super smooth temp line in DM with SS. if you like the vape, then don't worry about.

positioning the screen into the final spot killed it huh? completely or can you get it to at least flicker if you wiggle, tap, etc your solder joint between the screen ribbon and extension? zif socket connection wonky?

i only used about 2 feet of my nife48 24/26 gauge since i got it a few months back. i find myself throwing a Ti build in anything new and worth while i get, rather than a nife build.

in search engine at the top of this page, do a search for "crown" or "316L". there are a LOT threads in this forum discussing temp controlling the crown ss heads. hope this helps.

don't give up hope yet dethtron. given evolv's recent relocation into a different building, they have been slow to respond to emails. if you opened a ticket, you will receive a response. maybe give it a few more days before you dismantle your reuleaux. that being said, if you do decide to open the device, you'll want to check the sled and board wiring; ground screw; all solder points relating to the battery. that's where i would start.

maybe an intermittent connection problem inside the lipo? either way, try another lipo if you have. if the batt still jumps the battery bar, open a ticket with with evolv. honestly this sounds like how the dna40 battery bar behaves, not the dna200, lol. are you sure your graph is correct and you have all of your voltages/percentages in descending order? have you ran battery analyzer on your lipo?