Spector NS5 RD

this separate charging board has a cell balancing circuit as well? are you going to leave the battery settings in escribe on lithium polymer or power supply to turn off the dna's charging circuit? one more question, can you post a link to this charging board please. i hope it works out for you. when you're doing the install post some during and after shots to let us know how it worked out.

i'm wondering with the new vt75 and dx75, if there is anodizing on the battery thread caps. that could cause a premature 'weak battery' message. i also have no idea what gauge battery wire they are using in these mods nor how or if they are achieving a solid ground connection from battery to board. if it's any consolation, i hear evolv is working on a dna 75 firmware update to make the 'weak battery' message less eager to appear on the screen.

i gotta be honest. i'm really digging these 25mm rta's out now. the two main rta's i use now are my vcmt 25mm and the griffin 25mm. they wick so much faster than 22mm rta's with max vg eliquid.

you'll never get the analog front end off without some sort of reflow station. i also doubt you'll be able to re solder the chip back on with manual soldering. you might be able to de-solder the pinouts but you'll get to the exposed pad underneath the ic. take vapingbad's suggestion and open a ticket with evolv. why not get a whole new board out of the deal?

either way preheat, no preheat, tc or non tc, watts are watts. looks like at 55 watts you got some bad battery sag. what mod is this? what type of battery is this? 26650's are perform very poorly for vaping purposes. especially in the 50 watt and up range. if you're not familiar with battery mooch, i would look at his chart for vaping approved 26650 and 18650 batts. battery tabs/connections also play a role on how well a battery will perform when demands from it are high. make sure you have some good quality batteries to supply power to your dna 75. i'll post a link to suggested batteries.

it's an RMA issue. open a ticket with evolv.

i use one of these on my eleaf pico to let me use 25 mm tanks. it's not all that great for TC builds. if it's bumped hard or turned just a hair, kiss your stable connection goodbye. at least that's how mine performs. works best for plain old kanthal/non TC builds. that's my experience with these 510 heat sinks.

i forget how to post a csv file. i think you have to post it with "txt" at the end of the file and remove the "csv" part or vise versa. and to turn what you have posted back into csv format you have to remove the "txt" and replace with "csv". i think, it's been a while since i did it. i'm bad with computers.

this is a post from TheRedBaron a while back, dunno if you saw this or not. "I can confirm the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack can fit with modification. This is how to make it fit. Start by removing the four number 6 torx screws on battery cover and separate. Remove Hcigar battery carefully so not to damage the balance plug on the DNA200 board. Cut the main power xt30 plug off of the Hcigar battery one inch from the battery. Cut the power xt60 plug off of the Turnigy battery close to the plug. Solder xt30 plug to Turnigy battery and cover solder joints with heat shrink. The inside of the battery compartment is .825 and the Turnigy is .925 inches thick so this is where things get messy. Dremel out the inside of the battery compartment removing half of it's thickness on both sides. Do the same thing to the chip side of the battery compartment. Plug in the Turnigy battery running the wires the same as the factory battery with the xt30 plug in the curved area of the battery compartment. Reinstall cover and the four torx screws. I now have what I thought I bought a month ago... This is a repost from another thread. Mods, if I'm breaking a rule, please let me know... /topic/67719-topic/ Later in that thread... That battery plastic wrap got torn up and eventually torn off during the test fitting proses. I didn't notice it helping much. There is a step on the mating side edges of the box. Plan on shaving out material all the way to that step. Once that gets paper thin it will fold over and break off. Don't bother with the Dremel sanding drums, they don't last long. go straight to a cutting tool. that would have saved me a lot of time. I should mention I noticed today the mod feels significantly heavier now. The mod used to look heavy but was light. Now, looks and feels heavy. This battery really fills up a lot of the wasted space inside. If it was one millimeter thicker like the 45c or 60c 1300mah Turnigy batteries I would have just cut the side of the box out the slightly smaller then the size of the battery. Definitely would have been faster."

i like the punch high on most tc builds and the preheat high as well. i want my coil to be up to my set temp as fast as possible. it's all about preference, what you like. play around with the settings and see what fits your needs. start off at double the watts for your preheat power and 5 for the punch. play around with the time limit as well. vape and adjust to your liking from there.............

lock your ohms when you first put on the room temp velocity.

i think the closest you'll get to want you want is the ''weak battery'' (battery hit 2.5v or under) message. that's on all of the dna boards. but i do also like watching the battery sag on yihi devices. tells me, when firing, whether or not my batteries can handle the build/wattage.

post a screen shot of exactly what you have your battery settings at in escribe. also what are the individual cell voltages in device monitor, screen shot as well. make sure in escribe it's set on '3 cell' 'lithium polymer' '14.43 watt hours' also remember to 'upload settings' to your efusion before leaving escribe. one more thing, make sure your wall adapter is capable of delivering 1 amp, as well as the usb cable.

do not go by the dna board battery readout alone. use a multi meter. borrow one for 5 min if you have to.

lipo is new i take it? what are the actual individual cell voltages using a multi meter? if all cells are balanced and at decent levels then you could have some problems where the balance wires meet the board. ex. ejuice near or on jst solder points, flux residue also creates problems if not cleaned off entirely, cold solder joints. if those ARE the true cell voltages, you got a bum lipo. over 4.20 volts kills lithium cells.

you saying you think you killed your board doing a hard reboot? i dunno, that's strange. it could be you just have a board that as made on a monday or a friday. i wouldn't get hung up on the hard reboot death nail. i use it now and then and haven't had anything die yet. i'd try a few more things with the board before writing it off. but rest assured evolvs rma is top notch. two boards sent on a monday, two boards back on a thursday. but then again i live only an hour away from them.

i did the battery swap in regular wattage mode.

maybe try re-installing the firmware you're running.

what's strange is that it doesn't entirely reset the counter. it just takes a couple hundred puffs away. firmware bug maybe. i'm going to go try this on my relo.....will report back. edit....... 5799 puffs when batteries in. 5799 puffs when batts taken out and replaced.

i guess what i'm looking for is, how do we know the replacement lipos are ANY different from what hcigar used previously. i'd guess to get the actual 1300 mah (14.4 wh), the new lipos would have to be slightly bigger than it's falsely advertised predecessor. i can confirm the original 1300 mah (1000 mah) hcigar lipo is an exact/tight fit in the vt200. i dunno, maybe a diff batt chemistry.

can you post a link to this new improved lipo? i'm curious to see it.

i think you're talking about a custom lock screen. i don't recall there ever being an option for a custom screen while actually firing the device and taking a puff.

in escribe under 'mod' tab, behavior 'kanthal power limit'. even tho it says 200 on the screen it'll only hit what you set it for in escribe. watch the screen next time you fire it. it will flash 'kanthal max power'

does you live ohms look crazy as well? i can't say for certain this is the problem Bill, but i noticed with my crown rba (when i still used it a long time ago) the positive pin on the rba was kinda short and barely touched the top of the actual 510 positive pin. and just plain did not work well on weak springed 510 connectors. i ended up putting a tiny blob of solder on the end of the rba's positive pin to give it that tiny bit of extra length. my hcigar vt200 constantly gave me check atomizer because the spring was too weak to push up on the 510 pin to make contact with the rba pin. that's why i don't use it anymore kind of pain how it works on some mods better than others. make sure your connections are secure and the rba is tight in the base. best i can help. as for cell three reading any voltage, john from evolv mentioned that in order for the board to function there has to be some voltage at cell 3 since the analog front end is a 3-6 cell lithium battery management and balance ic. 3 being the least amount of cells needed for operation. so it needs to be tricked into thinking there's a 3rd cell.......or something like that. edit.....didn't see you had live ohm checked. i dunno, you got me by the sneakers.