Spector NS5 RD

there should be some message that flashes across the screen, unless you have your error flashes set 0 or 1 times. my guess is your hitting your "cell soft cutoff" limit. if you know you are using the correct cells (cells that have an amp rating capable of providing the power you're asking from them) and still getting a reduction in power, i would email Boxer and describe your problem. you have some bad wire soldering. Boxer would be the people who would fix that for you. it should still be under warranty, right? im curious, what kind of cells are you using?

"Ohms too high" means you're exceeding the maximum voltage output the board can provide. this means, the wattage will automatically be adjusted down to level it can output. it goes as follows....6.2 volts MAX for the DNA 75 6 volts MAX for the DNA 133 / DNA 167. 9 volts MAX for the DNA 200. 9.3 volts MAX for the DNA 250 my suggestion to you is, build a lower ohm coil. this will help you avoid the "ohms too high" message.

just use common sense, if the cells are too weak to provide the power you're asking for, it's not wise to push them to the point where they become damaged or YOU become damaged. play it safe, use good quality cells that are capable of delivering the power you need. do that, and the DNA will happily pump out the watts you desire, accordingly. don't, and the DNA protects you......

welcome to the forum miks1. sorry hear your Triade is broken. unfortunately there is no fix, the end user can do, for this specific problem. most likely, the board needs to be replaced. below, in my signature, are links for lost vape's repair center and evolv's help desk.

"turn off the step down"? what do you mean. i don't understand your question. you either have poor/rewrapped/fake cells or a connection issue, or both. there is no option in EScribe to let the cells drain dangerously low so you can avoid the "weak battery" or "check battery" messages, sorry.

if you want to try something, solder that wire back where it was on the leg of the down button (make sure it's soldered on the SAME leg where it originally was!) and solder it to the 3rd pinout (circled in red). it was originally soldered in the wrong pinout . THIS FIX WILL ONLY WORK ASSUMING THE ACTUAL BUTTON WORKS (which i'm guessing it does since it functioned as a second up button because of the incorrect placement)! or wait and see what VD says. up to you. if i had the board in-hand i'd be able to fix it for you in 10-15 min. if the button is bad i have replacement SMD tact switches of that exact model. i mainly buy them for replacing vaporshark's faulty firing buttons.

@asmodeous evolv is open to suggestions. post your idea in the feature request thread. i think a voltage based battery meter with sag would be a nice option for the DNA 75 and 60, especially. TBH, i find i never take the cells out of any of my DNA 133/167/200's. if the cells get low, i just plug in the USB to charge and rotate to a different mod. if i'm going out, i make sure the mod's charged or take a mod that i know will last the duration of...whatever.

the up and down button's neg pin-outs on the dna are tied directly together / to ground. looks like VD used a common ground path for both -/+, requiring the use of only 3 of the 4 available -/+ pin-outs. this is common practice to save material (wire) and time. short answer - the last up button pin-out not being soldered is OK and not needed. @flo_46 can you take a better, closer pic of VD's daughter board for me? i might be able to help you out..... also... can you check for continuity between these two point of the switch. should have continuity when button is pressed, no continuity when not pressed.

assuming the device is set up correctly in EScribe, it basically boils down to - the board needs X amount of current to provide X amount of watts to the atomizer. if this need is not met, the boards safety features kick in. it's all about current availability and the ability to transfer that energy from the cell(s) to the board. if any part of that circuit is weak (poor cells (re-wraps, fake "authentics"), low CDR cells, loose/dirty/too small of dia./weak cell contacts, dodgey wire to contact/wire to board soldering, too small of a gauge wire, dodgey balance tap soldering (the board measures the individual cells while charging AND firing through the cell taps. so a cold solder joint or loose joint at the tap/cell contact will cause an incorrect/false reading.) the board can trigger those errors.

turn up the "charging screen brightness" in EScribe. as for the second part of your question, the DNA 75 cannot show the USB current like the DNA 200/250. that feature is not available on the DNA 75, it can only show the amp draw from the atomizer.

check battery on the 200/250 means a cell is sagging more heavily than the other 2 (or 1 if in 2S Mode, 133-167). can be a poor performing cell or balance tap connection issue.

welcome to forum @Chainvaper!

what's the question? how close is the 75 to the 200 in terms of ohm reading / temp setting/ wattage setting (with respect that the 75 is only.......75w)? is it a Skookum Choocher? i found that my DNA 75's perform almost identically to 200 in TC as long as the cold res is the same and i'm using the same material profile. only thing is, i can't get the preheat power i like with the higher wattage 200/250 but found out almost all of my dual coil TC builds use about 60 - 75 watts to maintain my set temp, so it's just not as fast to ramp up. so far, on my work mod (SMY SDNA75) i have dropped it kabillion times spilled pretty much everything from e-juice and water to pvc primer and glue and flux (and the button surrounds are crusted with pipe dope). it's always getting filled with dust of various nature, sometimes metallic. i think i have over 40k puffs on it, i haven't checked in a while. keeping the gas pedal to the floor (75w preheat / 11 punch / 2 secs) 75w to maintain, battery life is as expected. A Sony VTC5A lasts about 5 hours (8am - 1pm). a second cell gets me to home base. only gripe, wished the 75 remembered refined resistance when replacing the cell. i have found a work around, by placing a USB "umbilical cord" into mod while i change out the cell it keeps the board awake while the cell is being swapped out.

i used what would fit in the vias. 18wg worked just fine for me with no complications.

it's a right of passage to break at least one Evolv DNA screen when modding . glad to hear it's working out for you. please be sure to post some pics in the DNA 60 thread. also mention any traps for young players/first timers, so they can be avoided.

if you're handy with a soldering iron you can send evolv the board only and they'll replace it since it's within the one year warranty. This is the fastest way, IMO, to get your Therion back up and running. Maybe wait a few more days for a response from Lost Vape's repair center before de-soldering anything. Up to you........

it looks as if your cells are not making connection to the DNA board. can you try different cells? it's possible some wires are broken or bad solder joints. can you contact the vendor and ask about a return? other than that, my next suggestion is to take it apart and look around inside for broken wires. this is only if the vendor will not help you and/or shipping costs are very expensive to ship the device to get it repaired by Lost Vape or Evolv. but contact the vendor first. then contact Lost Vape's warranty repair center (link located in my signature at the bottom of this post).

do you not have cells in the Therion when connected to EScribe? Device Monitor is showing 0 volts for both cells........... put both cells back in and take another screenshot of DM. what version firmware are you running?

post a screenshot of Escribe's device monitor with the battery option boxes ticked, when the device is displaying shorted.

board is most likely bad. in the bottom of my signature are the links for Lost vape warranty repair and Evolv. i suggest contacting the vendor first and ask about a return, if the device is new before contacting LV or Evolv.

see i'm the opposite, i prefer the matte screen. i save all my matte screens that still work. i find the matte finish slightly diffuses the light from the pixels making for smoother looking characters on the screen. not like the glossy where the individual pixels are more pronounced. and somewhat more fingerprint resistant. i think it's just two different suppliers. individually, maybe each is too small of a company to provide the quantity of screens that Evolv needs, so Evolv just orders from both.

i would contact the vendor you purchased the VTBox250 from and ask about a return. i doubt it's anything the average user can fix. if the vendor gives you a hard time you can always open a help ticket through Evolv. Evolv may or may not ask you to to send in only the board, for replacement.

i honestly do not think it's the lipo. you said all this happened after you ran BA, right? i suspect the board has died or at least the cell monitoring/charging circuitry. my guess is if you do purchase a new lipo this behavior will continue. open a help ticket with Vaporshark. send them the screenshots you posted here. they'll most likely have you send it back. i know in the U.S. they pay shipping, both ways.

seems you're a low wattage vaper, seeing you own a DNA 40 device. you might want to look into the Lost Vape Epetite DNA 60. it's like a DNA 40 except it has EScribe capabilities (and 20 extra watts).

your cells are almost completely drained. the charging cycle will not start if the cells are too low. this is a safety feature. you can try "PERFORM USB RECOVERY" in EScribe (under "TOOLS" - "DIAGNOSTICS"). this feature may take more than one try. it only runs for a few minutes. i doubt it will work though, your cells are very low, but worth trying. i would contact Vaporshark's customer service because the board is draining your cells below the normal cutoff limit of the DNA 250. you are most likely going to have to send the mod to VS for repair. their customer service is excellent, i can say this from personal experience.