Nick

What a lot of people do not realize is we have been busy moving to our new facility. We aren't ignoring anyone or abandoning anyone. We love our customers, I was just at the St Louis Vape Expo over the weekend and spent time sitting with a lot of users and talking to them. Things have been a tad slow due to the move, but the work hasn't stopped for a single day. We are going to continue to break new ground in the industry and ask that everyone bears with us. This is the first time many of us here are undergoing something like this, and are working on fully moving a company that has been working in the same place since 2010. There is more work to do, and things to move than anyone could possibly imagine and we appreciates everyone's patience and support!

I just stood here with our developer and discussed this topic, we will see what we can figure out for the next version. Thanks for the feedback!

As of right now I do not believe anywhere has ONLY screens in stock for sale as we just received them today. I am not sure if that will change in the future or not just yet, however it will still be few days at the very least until things start going out from here at our new facility. The production line just started moving today for boards, and we are moving in the offices, etc this week. Things are a bit hairy in NE Ohio right now with the snow as well which is slightly hampering our move.

Hi Everyone! Just a quick screen PSA from Evolv. Screens are starting to show up in the tens of thousands as of today, which is great news. However, due to some screen film variances the attached photo will now be the best way to tell compatibility. We are currently in the middle of moving facilities to our new building, so as soon as we are settled screens should start becoming more widely available.

Conan, everything looks good, the only thing missing is pins 2 and 3 on the balance tap should be bridged, you can just connect them via a small dab of a solder if you like. Once this is done the USB charging should work fine.

Screens with the green tabbed film on them will work with the DNA40 and 200. Screens with the red tabbed film will only work on the DNA200. No components from any manufacturers other than Evolv are compatible with our boards, or have been tested.[/QUOTE] Thanks Nick, I took the liberty of appending to the FAQ since it often comes up.[/QUOTE] Great, thank you!

Screens with the green tabbed film on them will work with the DNA40 and 200. Screens with the red tabbed film will only work on the DNA200. No components from any manufacturers other than Evolv are compatible with our boards, or have been tested.

Holidays slowed things down a bit, and we are in the middle of moving some things around facility wise. We are definitely here and working the help desk each and every day. No new ticket goes un-answered, it simply isn't possible for someone to not look at it with the way our system works. Opening a second ticket will only increase the time it takes for us to get in touch as we try to track down multiple tickets for the same thing, combine the info into one ticket, and clean up the duplicate. We appreciate your patience while we are working nonstop to provide excellent support and bring you some new and exciting things this year.

These are great tools for anyone making mods. To get the most out of any device it absolutely should have the internal/mod resistance measured and accounted for. Can't wait to get mine, I've been using non-copper plugs up until now.

I just went through and cleaned up the spammers I could find. We are looking into ways to lock down the registration process a bit more. We appreciate everyone's patience while we work on this!

Hi everyone, here is the "official" settings file created by Evolv for the LostVape EFusion. This file contains the complete results of the Battery Test, Mod Resistance offset, and Case Analyzer. Also included are Titanium, and SS profiles. This same file has been provided to LostVape and will be coming on all new completed production mods. **YOU MUST BE ON THE NEWEST FIRMWARE AVAILABLE HERE ON THE FORUMS OR THIS FILE WILL NOT OPEN** https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxnf8OwrMZ7OUmg1ckJHUWZiRlk/view?usp=sharing

Mine only took about a half hour. I just lined up the resistors, marked them with a sharpie, and ran the holes on the drill press. It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work and be able to dissipate the heat generated.

Here you go. I put a plug between the base and atty so you don't have to spin the whole setup onto the mod. Screw the atty in, plug it into the rest of the rig, and start the test. https://instagram.com/p/9JsRgnCwWv/?taken-by=dogmods

I am using 4 of these, mounted to an aluminum project box for additional heat sinking, and wired in parallel for .25 ohms. It handles the battery tests without breaking a sweat. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IDAD76?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Great, hope you can make a thread post when you have something. I as going to try and find a proper thread size copper rod, but that's tough where I live. Any idea of ETA?[/QUOTE] We just spoke about them last night, Bob is working with his machinist to get them made as quickly as possible. It shouldn't be long, it is a very simple design. Sourcing the copper rod stock will probably take longer than spinning the first run off the lathe.

One of the most important things to do is testing the resistance of your 510 and its wiring loop. The hands down best way to do this is with a plug that threads into the 510 and basically hard shorts it. You can then use the atomizer analyzer to read the resistance, and take about 90% of this value and enter it into the Mod Resistance field. The improvement this makes is shocking to say that least. Failing a Copper slug/plug that you can thread in, you can take an old atomizer and solder the posts together, although you wont get the most accurate reading and may need to use 60-70% of the value. Bob Lewis on Facebook is a board Vendor and is currently working on having copper plugs machined with a 510 thread in order to perform this test and dial in the mod. Get in touch with him if you want to get in line for one. This is a small extremely inexpensive tool that I believe every modder should have to dial in their specific designs.

We will pay return shipping. We usually turn the repairs around the same day we get them, the next day at the latest. You will be waiting on the courier longer than you wait on us.

Looks good, I would add you may need to recovery charge a few times, or at least more than once. It will only charge for a limited amount of times for safety reasons, so one cycle may not be enough to bring some larger packs back to life.

I do not, however there a few things to keep in mind. If you are going to use just the JST plug, you will need to make a custom harness externally between the box and balance charger as most lipo chargers also require a Battery +/- plug as well. Also, internally on the box you will want to use a higher gauge wire than normal if you plan for the whole charge current to travel on the JST wires. The one thing I have always been wary of having a female JST externally on a mod is a the chance for something to short the pins, either by contacting it, stuff in your pocket, etc. While this has never happened for me, it is the reason I am extremely careful with my mods I charge externally, and would not ever make them like that for DogMods customers.

The DNA200 uses a 25A onboard fuse that can be found near the Battery + input. It is a small, green, rectangle shaped component that should appear physically blown when tripped. Replacement Fuses can be found here: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3413.0332.22virtualkey69300000virtualkey693-3413.0332.22 In case you need to find and order them somewhere else: Manufacturer: Schurter Manufacturer Part #: 3413.0332.22 Specs: 25A 63v Max DC Surface Mount Fuse

Put in tickets with us.

You should replace this with an actual fuse ASAP for risk of hurting your board, or having a short scenario that isn't prevented by the fuse. Here is the mouser link for fuses: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3413.0332.22virtualkey69300000virtualkey693-3413.0332.22

No need to be frustrated! Shoot us a ticket and we will get you taken care of. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

Sugru is fine. Anything silicone based is okay as long it is solvent free and non-corrosive.

Just wanted to chime in here and say that the only thing we approve for use on anything that comes in contact with the board is a Silicone/RTV that is non-corrosive or electronics grade, such as the following: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8R6LY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0063U2RT8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19S9F5TH4AEGKX71VQB8 Anything else is a big nono, especially solvent based glues or epoxies, the two part epoxies commonly used, etc.