Nick

0.004 is standard.

I approved the RMA. No worries, we will get it sorted out for you and find the cause! It may need the 510 grounding improved but we will see.

If you're willing to let us take a look at the mod submit a helpdesk ticket and we will get you info to send it in. I'd like to check the grounding and see if I can find the cause. Thanks!

Fire the coil at something like 15 to 20 watts in wattage mode and watch the live ohm value in Device Monitor make note of the resistance at the start or shortly after. Then open atomizer analyzer and see how that compares to the live reading and let us know what you find.

No problem happy to help!

Try selecting from the top dropdowns Options > User Interface > Manufacturer.

Hey no problem at all!

You can, but the proper way to do it is to run separate wires for pins G 1 2 3 as to avoid voltage drop while firing due to tapping off the main power connections. Separate wires will ensure accurate readings.

Looks like a bug with running the test fire at higher resistances. Can you give it a shot at 1 ohm or lower and let me know if it works? I just tried it with 2 ohm and 1 ohm, failed to fire on 2 ohm passed on 1 ohm. I''ll get this noted internally for a bug fix, thanks!

Great thanks!

Hmm, I am using 1.1 SP21.1 firmware and EScribe 2.0 SP 3.1 and my fire tests are completing. Can you screenshot your production utility settings so I can see all the values?

Can you confirm the EScribe version under Help > About and also the firmware version being programmed to the boards, this can be seen in the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor.

I will test this now on my end. What is it saying when it fails?

With the release of the DNA 75C we have also made available a screen cradle model. The model is available on the DNA 75C page under 3D Models here: https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna75color Included in the zip file is a directory with the model, and how to mount the screen to it. This model is optimized for shapeways printing, if using other methods of manufacturing be sure to test fitment before running a large batch. Almost all of the screen failures experienced on the 200/250/75 boards were due to the ribbon cable being placed in such a way that the fire button would contact it when pressed causing eventual failure. Use of the cradle is not required but it does offer a number of advantages. Allows devices to easily be 3d modeled, designed, and assembled as it mounts the screen in the same position every time. The four notches along the sides of the board are for the holder to clip into. Prevents fatigue and stress on the most delicate part of the ribbon cable ensuring the screens can be installed and removed repeatedly without failure. Securely tucks the ribbon cable under the screen away from any buttons. I will leave this topic unlocked in case anyone has questions related to the cradle.

Variances in temperature settings between devices with the same atomizer and coil can be due to a number of things such as wiring, and the quality and resistance stability of the 510 itself. We do our best to make it as accurate as possible. I also tested within 1 degree of the setpoint today running through a QA sheet for one of our boards, but external factors can and do play a large part in causing undesirable performance.

You could use 30Q's without issue. Just because that is the limit of the board does not mean the batteries need to be at that limit unless you vape up at very high wattages at a low resistance. You could attempt to use 5 amp batteries in a DNA 250 device at 250 watts it just simply wont fire. The battery monitoring system watches the cells while firing and prevents them from being overdrained or experiencing over-current. Attempt to draw that much current from a low drain battery would sag the voltage too far thus triggering the battery protection.

Try whitelisting the forum in your ad-blocker add-on if you are using one. If you are using Chrome also try logging into the forum in incognito mode. I've found this helps a couple people with similar issues.

If it has a warranty through Volcano make use of it first. I have seen a couple here though that were either a board grounding issue, or a wiring/soldering issue. A few had a very, very loose ground screw for the top left board mounting screw since this is the main ground for the device. I've seen a few where the wire popped off the battery contact as well, but again, I'd try to utilize the warranty before tearing into it trying to find possible issues.

Don't have a Nano available at the moment but just checked on a VT75 which I would assume uses the same screws, they are a T-6.

I would try removing the screws in the top and bottom of the body, and sliding the battery tube/body away from the frame. You will see the 75 board held in place by three screws, two at the top of the board and one in the bottom left. If you can, make sure those screws are snug, even a 1/4 turn sometimes can be the difference between a good stable resistance reading and an unstable one. Make sure to use the appropriately sized drivers as the screws can be easy to strip if your driver doesn't fit right.

The 250 does not turn the screen on with USB power, hook a battery up and it should be good to go.

I just updated my SharkFlask 133 to SP3, zero issues. If any board at all bricks during update, trying removing all USB devices except the critical ones, and then attempt a manual firmware update via Tools > Update Firmware, or now Tools > Apply Service Pack. We have seen that sometimes, certain USB devices that are trying to communicate on the USB bus can interrupt an EScribe update. The manual updates available via the dropdown function a bit differently from the normal updates, and that aspect of the software should be able to communicate with a bricked board. I have brought quite a few that bricked during update back this way. It may take a few tries of plugging, unplugging, and trying again but it should work for anything that died during a firmware update.

What are you basing that off of, or where did you get that baseline resistance you want it to read from? There can be pretty large wiring and 510 resistance variances across devices, or something like an ohm reader. All of our boards are dialed in and calibrated using professional quality equipment so I would guess that our resistance readings are correct. We have seen time and time again where our boards are more accurate resistance reading wise than anything else, and every atomizer reads lower than anything else someone owns. The Lost Vape mods in particular have an extremely high spring force, and are very well made from a resistance stability and accuracy standpoint. Also, if you want to completely take a new resistance reading I would suggest removing the mod resistance, uploading settings, removing your atomizer, and performing a Hard Reboot of the device via EScribe. After the atomizer is room temperature re-attach it and see if it reads differently.

To adjust temperature click the fire button 5 times to lock the device. Then hold the up/down buttons to enter into temperature adjustment mode. Adjust the temperature to the desired setting, then click the fire button to confirm. You can then unlock the device and use it. To find out what the material of your coil is I would recommend referencing the website of your tank/coil manufacturer. Looking at the CLP2 Clapton Coils they have a wattage spec listed, and no temperature spec so I would say they are meant to be used in Power/Wattage mode.