dwcraig1

That's also the brand of the battery inside. So I thought I'd give the Hot Fire charger a try. I've read that it may over charge. Finished at 12.71 volt according to my meter. About 4.24 per cell I guess, not the best, could have been worse.

I just about replaced it just to get it off my mind but it really works OK so I'm leaving it be for now.

I would rather used a 7 x .50 mm bolt but I only have the tap. Screw nut onto the tap as shown, then washer, then receiver and screw into 510. Hold tap from turning and screw nut downward drawing 510 into nylon sleeve. My nut here is a VS rDNA 510 with it's one end drilled out. Crude but effective.

see next one

Re 510: I measured the voltage between the battery negative and base of atty (0.35?) while firing and got 0.14 volts on my Hotcig and 0.03 volts on my Opus. I made up a little puller to pull the pressed in one out to replace with a FD v3 shorty. The hold back for me is possible need of warranty and it works just fine.

Gee, folks complaining about not being 1800 mah, I'm more worried it's not 35C.

As I don't have mine as yet I was going by the dimensions listed for the Lion Power 1500 35c. DNA200 works fine with 7.4 volt pack but only outputs 133 watts. [/QUOTE]

As I don't have mine as yet I was going by the dimensions listed for the Lion Power 1500 35c. DNA200 works fine with 7.4 volt pack but only put out 133 watts.

My plan for my Vapecige box was to convert it to dual 18650's but it appears that it may be about 5 mm too short lengthwise for a sled. Perhaps someone would be so kind to measure the area for the battery and post it. A couple good 18650's could provide 22 wh.

In EScribe using the "Mod" tab, charging mode. If set to "maximum puffs" it will charge to 4.2 volts per cell and if set to "maximum recharges" it will charge to 4.1 volts per cell.

A bad connection with the atty at the 510 whether it be the ground or the output would have the same result, check that center pin to atty connection as well.

Keep in mind than if the DNA board sees a data path present it will only charge up to 0.5 even with USB 3.0

Yes, it still does with newest version and firmware.

Either the insulator on my Opus' 510 wasn't screwed in all the way or I forced it down with my Infinite Magma clone with it's extra long 510. I was having problems with changing resistance till I correcting it. Here's a picture of it prior to screwing it all the way back in. I then added a dab of Super Glue gel to keep it there. It didn't appear stripped so I'm not sure how it got that way. BTW, that glob of sealant you see here appears to be silicone that "they" used.

I'm really hoping someone "in the know" addresses the 3.6 volt cut off stated here.

/topic/65591-topic/?do=findComment&comment=885508

While you may already have this version it would maybe be a good place to start. 2015-08-17 EScribe (I'm slow)

If you mean "how to make it show longer" to give time to take a picture, that is adjustable in EScribe with the "Theme" tab by changing the seconds. I'm not sure but I believe all versions, probably best to be using the latest one anyway in most cases.

Kind of working backwards to what one would expect.

It doesn't work that way on mine. Opus also for what ever that's worth.

Maybe the screen is not on the bottom as we think it is.

I don't see any way the VaporShark DNA 200 can be done like they did the rDNA 40

I'd kind of like Opus to get involved with this forum but that just well might not be the right way to go, just a thought though. Unless Opus received all the first run boards and unless they were faulty then there should be the same failure rate seen with all of the boards. I can only guess at how many Opus' have been sold so far but it should be near at least 500. I think there's 10 or 11 have been reported here, that might leave another couple or so unknown. So we're looking at maybe 4% failure rate here which really isn't too bad but it still should fall in line with the rest of the board failures excluding user error. Here's what I was looking at as the cause of the fuse blowing, note just how close the contacts of the switch are to the ground pad on either side of it. And then note the stand offs of the case: Looks like a pretty tight clearance to me but I didn't actually measure it as I would have to disassemble it to do so.

Perhaps this has already been answered already, if so pardon me please. How can one determine the MAH of a Lipo pack if it's not stated on the pack and the mod maker over rated it? I guess I know now,,,,, battery analyzer in EScribe .

No one is mentioning whether their dead Opus 200 is a black one or a nickel one, may not even matter but I'm curious as to if they're running (dying) evenly.