dwcraig1

If it were me I would go ahead and do the USB recovery charge just to see where the device stands. There were quite a few early Hotcig DX200's arriving with voltages similar to yours. The battery probably has some scars and needs watched during charging but should come back.

Certain silicone lack acceptable solvents, there is info here in the forum about what can be used.

I used liquid "no clean" flux for BGA and canned duster spray to clean mine, alcohol may work too. I just applied some blew it off and repeated once more, total success on mine. (just under the plastic piece) It will take next to for ever to balance it with the built-in charger.

My thoughts on this is it reminds me of a situation I had with my VTbox200. I had juice leak into the box which I promptly cleaned up. What I didn't realize was juice got between the board and the balance connector that sits on the board causing one cell to slowly drain while just sitting there. I replaced the battery and had the same problem after a while till I discovered it. I couldn't locate my post on it but here is how I balanced the pack after I got the juice off the board. /topic/67772-topic/?do=findComment&comment=910038

Shipping is only about $5 and 10 days from "Z"

/topic/66731-topic/ 2015-10-21 EScribe 2015-09-30 Firmware (non-beta)

Isn't setting preheat equal to or lower than "Power Set" the same as turning preheat completely off?

I figured I better jump on the wagon before I'm too far back in the dust to even see it. Now to see if the old dog can learn new tricks. I was going to wait a bit before trying this one but well...what to heck...

I just did some measuring of the case near the 510. The top of the case is 2 mm thick, the recess is 1 mm deep, that only leaves 1 mm if those protrusions in the well and the rails on the inside where the 510 slides into place are removed. I was just inside mine a couple of days ago concerned with the 510' insulator. I suspect those rails that the 510 fits into are supported at the case above the fire button, I paid no attention to that when I was inside. Then is the battery cradle going to clear? While quit possible to do it looks challenging. I would like to change mine too but will wait till it's necessary I guess.

Fatdaddy has 16 gauge only http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html

That's the newest EScribe, and the newest firmware is 9-30

The Opus is exceptionally pocket friendly when Murphy's Law comes into play. More times than I wish to admit I forget to lock it and with the way the fire button is located it pretty much isn't going to fire unintentionally. I'm nearing 7 months with a black one, so far no problems other than I pushed the 510's insulator in some but I fixed that. Totally my fault there.

I guess your talking about a pin in the balance plug that's on the board. Is it getting bent inserting the battery at an angle perhaps?

In the beginning the only manufactured DNA200 mod was the Opus so when one died of coarse it was an Opus. But is the fatality rate actually any higher than others? Or does it just seem that way?

I have all 4 of mine set to 35% on charging brightness, I doubt if it's noticeable as far as charging time goes.

The excessive voltage drop on cell #2 pretty much narrows it down to the battery being at fault. Still have to call it guess work on my part though.

Sometimes I fell we need a "Like" button. This is one of them.

Yes after a bit more research i have found out that on the hcigar it is in fact china export mark!! CE (european directive mark) and CE China Export mark are identical apart from the spacing! China Export being closer together[/QUOTE]LOL

My TGT's have the "CE" logo, they also say "Made in Germany". They are clones though. Edit: Oh darn, I went to check the authentic Taifun box and it's not here. I must have gave it to the guy I sold a clone to, at least I still have the authentic TGT here.

ChunkyButt200, you I believe are correct about how it works. Cell #2 is doing what I expected, the battery needs replaced. I still think there may be a problem with the wiring inside the battery but that pretty much means replace the battery for most folks.

It would be great if you could post a screen shot like above while firing to be able to see the voltage drop on the individual cells.

Here's a screen of mine when the battery was unbalanced more than this one, there was no unbalanced message and the mod worked good. /topic/67594-topic/?do=findComment&comment=908452 There must be considerable voltage drop when under load perhaps. Looking like a bad cell or connection between cells under the shrink wrap. I'm just thinking out loud here. (my situation above ended up not being a bad battery BTW )

It's a slow process, slower than slow in fact.

Everyone has their own ideas, for example I set my one atty at 28 watts with 32 watts preheat. Some set theirs much higher. Be sure to upload your settings to the device. Good stuff here: http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp select your wire, hit DNA200 tab. Don't use Internet Explorer as your web browser.