dwcraig1

Thanks for your reply.

Can the original Wismec 510 socket be disassembled for example so the insulator or spring can be replaced?

0.022? surely can't be the correct setting, he (Daniel) must have made a typo. A figure of 0.0022? would be more believable. All 4 of mine are close to 0.003?. I seem to recall a correction made in the comments on his site on that, not sure though.

Here's mine: I removed the insides and the rubber grommet and put the positive pin back in and filled with solder. (from the bottom)

I'd pick the one for HE2's as they will be in there slightly longer, as far as I know only the battery gauge will be off a bit on the other set. Edit: you will probably get less than what you calculate on the mah of either set

I'd be looking at the 510 socket. See this post I just made in another thread, maybe try that. /topic/66823-topic/?do=findComment&comment=901046

What I and others have done is to solder the 510 of an old cartomizer or 510 adapter together to use as a tool for mod resistance. It works well, be sure to set mod setting to zero prior to running the test.

3 different DNA200 mods? Only a problem with #3?

What is the voltage showing for the pack in EScribe when it's done charging?

http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp Your 1.1 ohm doesn't sound right to me unless your using really thin wire (32) Get your files from Steamengine and compare your build with coil builder figures. Edit: Steamengine, I guess you already said that.

If that's VTbox200 by Vapecige it fits just fine, I had to shorten the output wires though and change the plug.

Just a bit of info here for those that are looking. http://vaping360.com/dna-200-box-mods/

The Vapecige revisions as I "think" they are. 1st. magnets on door, backwards T plug 2nd. screws on door, T plug correct 3rd. screws on door, no plug 4th. rubber coated case, screws on door, XT connector (black and white)

This I must ask, have you tried other USB cables?

A piece of wire seems to do the job on other 18650 DNA mods. What result would there be if one of these componets were to become open?

It's reassembled at the moment. That would make them act as a fuse as well as bridge the connection would it not?

So my plan was to open up my reuleaux and cut the small black wire then see the results. When I removed the battery sled I saw something that I didn't expect to see (even though I don't know what it is). The number 1 and 3 are not jumpered to the battery connections with a piece of wire but with what ever the picture here is. On the component used it it black and marked "0" not 205 like the included picture. So I stopped the "experiment" and put it back together. Here is what the component looks like:

You might try going into Windows Device Manager and un-installing it then right click and select scan for new hardware or simply re-boot with DNA connected, might work, might not.

First just let me say that this is just the result of "thinking about it" so keep that in mind. Here is a screen of my good working Wismec with no batteries. Here is a diagram that was posted by VapingBad: I very well might be all wet on this but I believe that the small black wire going to #1 is open or has a bad solder joint on one end or the other. Additionally I have been considering that the projections of the case where the board screws to and grounds may not be providing a good ground also.... just thinking out loud here though.

I found 23 "4d36e978-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318" entries in the left side pane on my Win 7 64 machine.

http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

Go here: http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/ Choose your category, near the top right choose "new topic". You can usually choose the category within the new posts page also.

On the charge rate if plugged into a computer and the mod sees a data path a .5 amp rate is the most you will get.

I stopped setting mine by which atty I use and set them up the by wire I used instead.

A description of what the same problem is would get more answers.