dwcraig1

I tried finding a good picture of it and couldn't find one of the inside of box view of the 510, it does appear to me to be press fitted in the case.

Nope. I find 1 amp a whole lot better than 0.5 amp though, which is the most you get from any of them including VS when plugged into a computer with a cord with data path. At work that's how I charge, still not all that bad as I'm always in and out of what I call my office. Office.....LOL.....more like a broom closet.

Read here, it should give you some info on recovering it. /topic/66326-topic/?do=findComment&comment=896200

Looks to be some type of cradle for the board to sit in.

So never higher than 40 watts? What I really don't understand is the 23 amp part.

I'm starting to give my 40's some long lost love. For the life of me I can't remember just how the preheat is suppose to work. Kind of to lazy to research it, can anyone refresh my memory? Back when I got them I only had Ni200, now I have many types and I'm liking the results, just have to find the right temp and it's good to go. Edit: I have two Bellus atties coiled the same, one's on a 200 @ 35 watts with 45 watts preheat and the other is on a 40 @ 35 watts. I am using both and really find them about the same. More to the point: What is the preheat duration? How close does it come to the set temp? Does preheat exceed 40 watts?

Where's the "Like" button?

The 2500 mah is the capacity between 2.5 volts and 4.2 volts, the DNA 200 is only going to be using whatever capacity between at lowest 2.9 volts and 4.2 volts. Just how this plays out in real time I'm not sure but I suspect the watt hours to be slightly less than what Escribe's wizard comes up with when 2500 mah is input.

Just curious, does it make any difference which battery is installed last? Is your charging set to "maximum puffs" or "maximum charges" ? Perhaps your watt hours is a bit too high resulting with the 95%.

Something to consider might be to save your battery profile, copy down your case settings, screen setting, ect on paper and restore default settings with a hard reboot in the end. Then add everything back. I'm pretty much saying what I would do but not at all sure if it will solve it for you, can't see it hurting anything though as long as you keep all the settings. Might even re-flash the firmware too.

I stopped at a vape shop that I go to occasionally to show the owner how to use the new firmware and we had that problem (maybe).What solved it was to add the various materials. It was as if there was nothing to change to, it fixed it. Edit: Let me add a bit more to this. In this situation we took a brand new Hana 200 from the display case and applied the beta firmware, there were no profiles previously set up Oh, never mind...... it was materials that we couldn't change as they were all nickel. DUH

I'm just a bit curious as to how you rebooted the mod, did you disconnect the battery and reconnect it or something else? Very glad to hear that you were successful btw.

Here (try both) http://flawlessvapeshop.com/shipping-returns/ and http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

/topic/66731-topic/ scroll down to 1.0.39, just below the firmware link

With the fire button locked (5 clicks) hold all three buttons down at once (about a second) then change material using up or down button a select by hitting the fire button

Great news

Juice is able to conduct small amounts of current, I had juice under the balance plug on the board once and it slowly drained cell #3. I cleaned mine off in that area with no clean flux and a few bursts of canned PC duster spray.

This thread may be of interest to you. /topic/67136-topic/?do=findComment&comment=904285 for the complete thread: https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=8065639

Instead of waiting here for an answer from Evolv submit a ticket on it and you will get a timely answer. http://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add

You can get them (various) from Steamengine, add them to EScribe then add them to the mod and upload.

I found it easier to remove all the existing profile entries and start fresh after updating to the firmware that has the materials tab than to try to correct them.

Not many folks talking about SS 430, perhaps cause they have no problems with it. If only it was easy to get in 24 and 26 gauge. I twist my 28 gauge to mimic 26.

The 510 socket is a bit loose without an atomizer screw in, maybe that.

I'm not to sure what to make of the mod resistance, if one of mine come up with a figure like 0.025? I'd be tearing it down to find the problem. Isn't that about what he listed for the Hcigar 200 as well?

As far as I know it has always shown the value for Ni200 till you enter something else in the box, note that it is highlighted. Edit: I see it now....DUH It appears one is the TCR and the other the curve for Ni200, but nothing changes till you make it happen.