dwcraig1

I use contact coils and was thinking maybe a couple of wraps were shorting when cold resulting in a lower cold resistance. So I opened it up,removed the wick and separated the coils and fired it and then pushed them back togther. I'm using Atomizer Analyzer during the whole process. It came out a little higher afterwards. I did this right before I was to leave for work and I choose the wrong one (the NiFe30 one). I didn't have time to do the one with NiFe48 so when I get home I'll try it with that. Looking at my snip of NiFe48 firing I'm seeing the resistance more than double and I'm thinking that's not right.

NiFe48 coil using NiFe30 CSV (Stealth Vave not Resistherm)

That's the coil I'm working with and using the NiFe30 curve from SteamEngine with it.

After taking up the tcr by 20 at a time I eventually reached 0.0050 so I just used SteamEngine's CSV for Stealvape NiFe30. I'm sure it's close going by taste, ect. Works fine now for me.

ere is my NiFe48 coil and NiFe30 coil firing in pretty much an identical situation.

It just so happened that last night I built a coil with Zivpf NiFe30 and I wanted to replace it tonight with one with a larger ID. So I proceeded to use my Zivpf NiFe48 to see how it would do. I built the same physical coil that I almost always build and put it in a TaifunGT3. I was not able to get it to work to my satisfaction. I was using 40 watts preheat then 30 watts and it would hit the 450F temp and throttle down. I tried this with both a DNA75 and a DNA100C. My coil is 2.7 mm ID using 26 gauge wire, I get 45/35 watts no problem using SS430. I decided to go ahead and build my larger ID NiFe30 coil using a 2nd Taifun GT3 and that worked perfectly. The profile from Steamengine NiFe52 is goodt for Zivpf NiFe48, while not exact it is close enough (400 vs 403). My only advice is to make sure your connections are tight and cold ohms is accurately measured.

https://www.stealthvape.co.uk/product/evolv-dna100c/ Here they give the option of including the mounting bracket, perhaps they will sell just the bracket if asked.

http://analogboxmods.ca/DNA-Board-Mounting-Bracket 100C, 75C and 250C are the same screen. With one of these you would have to modify it for the C port, look around they are out there.

Google is your friend, there are many options, here is one: https://www.protovapor.com/product/dna-color-screen-holder/

What board and what enclosure are you using?

I'm going to make another attempt to show how to set mod resistance. This can not be done on all DNA boards. Not with the 75C, 100C and 200 boards. It use to be able to be done with 200's but a firmware update stopped that long ago. Start by cleaning mod's 510 and the plug with alcohol. Using EScribe set mod resistance to Zero. Start Atomizer Analizer with mod connected and screw the shorting plug into the mod's 510. Put the value from Atomizer Analizer into the Mod Resistance box and upload settings

Do you see cell 3 and 4 are way above 4.2 volts, this indicates as far as I know that that battery management chip is bad. If under a year old you may get some help from Stealth Vape UK or perhaps Evolv. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

You have it set for "maximum recharges" , that is how I set mine when using a LiPo. If you want is to charge to 4.2 volts per cell set it to :maximum puffs. Maximum recharges stops the charge at 4.1 volts.

Be aware that the zero in the box is not the mod resistance, this is just what it is set to. Put your value in the box and upload to device.

I'm inclined to think that the mods with the lower resistance is closer to correct. I can't remember a DNA60 reading less, only higher. For sure zero is not the correct setting, usually 0.004 or higher. To check the mod resistance use atomizer analizer with a shorting 510 plug with mod resistance set to zero. Screw the shorting plug into the mods 510 and put the resulting figure into the mod resistance (electrical tab) and upload to device. I use a cartomizer that I soldered over it's 510 connection, it works great. This could be done also with a 510 to 510 adapter or an old atty with brass base/510.

This is an old video using an old version of EScribe but explains it well.

On this one the mod resistance is set to "zero", are all 5 mods set to zero?

What brand of mods do you have. Example: Dovpo College DNA60

With default settings red means charging and green is charging finished. Using EScribe's Device Monitor check the voltage on each cell and post it back here. Or better yet post a screen shot of Device Monitor like this one.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=239477

When using Atomizr Analyzer how many turns more does it take to screw in all the way once a correct resistance starts showing? There is no 510 standard so some are shorter and don't contact well with the mod's 510, check for that.

I see no resistance change when firing here.

It is normal for resistance to slowly rise when using Atomizer Analyzer as a vrey small amount of power is being applied. The resistance change in you previous post appears normal to me. It should be slowly going up, not up and back down and up and down.

It appears to not be stainless steel, probably Kanthal or Nichrome.

Hover mouse curser over area indicated by red arrow and report back what the voltage reads. Also it appears that the standing voltage of your cell is 3.66 volts, with a 75 ohm load it very well is going to drop to below the 2.75 volt cutoff and do exactly what you are posting about, throttling down. Does charging the cell to full charge correct this problem?