dwcraig1

SS316 has a slightly higher resistance than SS430, about 20%

0.11 doesn't seem right

Are you using two strands of 28 gauge SS316 twisted like mine, or just one strand?

Here is my first build on my Steam Crave boro, time to re-do it. 2.5mm ID,twisted 28 gauge SS430,0.224 ohms

Here is one of mine from 7 years ago, I twist the wire more these days but pretty much the same as I still do today.

The non TC snip shows some boost and you are getting your 63 watts that it s set to. The TC snip shows it hitting temp setting and throtting down below 54. Check all your connections. Use Atomizer Analyzer to check that your atty's 510 is making contact with the mod's 510 positive pin well before it's screwed in all the way. (and not the last half turn)

I would guess that the holder is the problem then.

Alpintech sell two different actuator button lengths.

I use twisted 28 gauge SS430 almost always. Here is a snippet of my dual coil SS430 build firing at 65 watts in EScribe's Device Monitor. My coils are 2.7 mm id and 6 or 7 wraps each. It would be most helpful if you could post a snippet of yours firing with the same boxes checked as mine. DNA100C

Best to ask that here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1 Be sure to say that the USB cable is not plugged in. (It appears that it is not plugged in)

I would check the cable first checking to see if it will charge another device at 2A or try some other cables. Is your theme able to show charging rate? Would you think that the heat of the XT60 is coming from the plug or traveling up the wires from the board to it? My guess here is a bad connection between the male and female usb plug do to looseness or dirty.

I got home from work and went straight at it, spreading the coils, checking the ohms. Rewicked and got the same sorry results. The one with the Zivpf NiFe30 (Steathvape CSV) works fine. I have disposed of the NiFe48 coil and replaced it with a 2 strand twisted SS430 coil. That's 2 strands of Unkamen's 28 gauge SS430 tightly twisted with a drill. Bottom Line: I gave up.

I use contact coils and was thinking maybe a couple of wraps were shorting when cold resulting in a lower cold resistance. So I opened it up,removed the wick and separated the coils and fired it and then pushed them back togther. I'm using Atomizer Analyzer during the whole process. It came out a little higher afterwards. I did this right before I was to leave for work and I choose the wrong one (the NiFe30 one). I didn't have time to do the one with NiFe48 so when I get home I'll try it with that. Looking at my snip of NiFe48 firing I'm seeing the resistance more than double and I'm thinking that's not right.

NiFe48 coil using NiFe30 CSV (Stealth Vave not Resistherm)

That's the coil I'm working with and using the NiFe30 curve from SteamEngine with it.

After taking up the tcr by 20 at a time I eventually reached 0.0050 so I just used SteamEngine's CSV for Stealvape NiFe30. I'm sure it's close going by taste, ect. Works fine now for me.

ere is my NiFe48 coil and NiFe30 coil firing in pretty much an identical situation.

It just so happened that last night I built a coil with Zivpf NiFe30 and I wanted to replace it tonight with one with a larger ID. So I proceeded to use my Zivpf NiFe48 to see how it would do. I built the same physical coil that I almost always build and put it in a TaifunGT3. I was not able to get it to work to my satisfaction. I was using 40 watts preheat then 30 watts and it would hit the 450F temp and throttle down. I tried this with both a DNA75 and a DNA100C. My coil is 2.7 mm ID using 26 gauge wire, I get 45/35 watts no problem using SS430. I decided to go ahead and build my larger ID NiFe30 coil using a 2nd Taifun GT3 and that worked perfectly. The profile from Steamengine NiFe52 is goodt for Zivpf NiFe48, while not exact it is close enough (400 vs 403). My only advice is to make sure your connections are tight and cold ohms is accurately measured.

https://www.stealthvape.co.uk/product/evolv-dna100c/ Here they give the option of including the mounting bracket, perhaps they will sell just the bracket if asked.

http://analogboxmods.ca/DNA-Board-Mounting-Bracket 100C, 75C and 250C are the same screen. With one of these you would have to modify it for the C port, look around they are out there.

Google is your friend, there are many options, here is one: https://www.protovapor.com/product/dna-color-screen-holder/

What board and what enclosure are you using?

I'm going to make another attempt to show how to set mod resistance. This can not be done on all DNA boards. Not with the 75C, 100C and 200 boards. It use to be able to be done with 200's but a firmware update stopped that long ago. Start by cleaning mod's 510 and the plug with alcohol. Using EScribe set mod resistance to Zero. Start Atomizer Analizer with mod connected and screw the shorting plug into the mod's 510. Put the value from Atomizer Analizer into the Mod Resistance box and upload settings

Do you see cell 3 and 4 are way above 4.2 volts, this indicates as far as I know that that battery management chip is bad. If under a year old you may get some help from Stealth Vape UK or perhaps Evolv. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

You have it set for "maximum recharges" , that is how I set mine when using a LiPo. If you want is to charge to 4.2 volts per cell set it to :maximum puffs. Maximum recharges stops the charge at 4.1 volts.